THE CULTIVATOR. 
68 
CULTURE OF FRUIT.—No. II. 
GRAFTING. 
One of the most important operations in the culture 
of fruit trees, is the propagation of varieties by budding 
and grafting. By means of these we exchange the un¬ 
palatable fruit of the wilding for the most delicious pro¬ 
ductions which art and nature combined have been able 
to furnish. And there are few gardens or orchards 
which might not be greatly improved by the introduc¬ 
tion of the best varieties, the cultivation and care of 
which cost no more than that of the most worthless. 
Budding and grafting have their respective advantages 
and disadvantages. Budding requires less skill and care, 
but needs the subsequent attention of removing the liga¬ 
tures, and heading down the stocks. Grafting does not 
need this subsequent care, but more skill is requisite in 
the operation-. The peach and nectarine can rarely if 
ever be propagated by grafting; and budding cannot be 
performed on large and unthrifty stocks, which may of¬ 
ten be successfully grafted. 
Books on gardening describe many different modes of 
grafting; but the multiplicity of these often more be¬ 
wilder the learner than instruct him. By understanding 
the essential requisites, the operation is at once simpli¬ 
fied, and it may be varied at pleasure without danger of 
failure. The two chief points are, that the sap flowing 
upward through the stock pnss freely into the graft , and that 
it returns without interruption from the inner bark of the 
stock. To secure these both the wood and bark in the 
stock and graft, must be so cut as to admit of being placed 
in close contact, and when so placed, the line of separa¬ 
tion between the bark and wood should, on one side at 
least, exactly coincide in both. 
The most common and useful modes are the whip and 
cleft grafting. Whip grafting is adopted where the stock 
and graft are of nearly equal size. To perform it, the 
stock and graft are cut off obliquely with an equal de¬ 
gree of slope, so as to leave two smooth straight surfaces 
which may be brought into close contact. A transverse 
cleft with the knife is to be made near the middle 
of each of these surfaces about one-third of an inch deep, 
so that when they are pressed together, the tongue and 
slit thus made in each, may mutually and firmly inter¬ 
lock. It is then usual to bind them to their place with 
bass or corn husk; but it is better to have the jaws of 
the cleft in each so firmly pressed together as to render 
this unnecessary. The whole is then to be closely 
wrapped in a grafting plaster. 
Where the stock is more than half an inch an diame¬ 
ter, cleft grafting is preferable. The stock is first cut 
off horizontally, and a split made in it at the middle of 
the cut surface an inch or two in depth; in this the graft, 
cut wedge-like, is inserted. To do it properly, it is re¬ 
quisite that the graft be so cut as to fit the split as 
nearly as possible, which is to be opened by a wedge 
on the side opposite from the place for the graft, and that 
the jaws of the stock be strong enough to press the sides 
firmly and closely. After this, the plaster is applied. 
It is convenient, in grafting, to have two knives, one 
chiefly for cutting, and the other very sharp, for smooth¬ 
ing the surfaces for contact. 
All the branches and buds on the stock, must be care¬ 
fully removed, that the sap may all go to the nourish¬ 
ment of the graft. Failure is often caused by a want of 
this care. 
In heading down old trees, it is a common practice to 
graft into the large branches; it would be much better to 
cut off those branches, and to graft or bud into the young 
shoots which spring up in their places. 
The practice of using clay to cover the wounds, is now 
nearly superseded by the far neater and better mode of 
applying plasters of Grafting Wax. These are made the 
most readily and cheaply by spreading the warmed wax 
over a sheet of unsized paper with a knife, or with a 
brush when melted, and afterwards cutting up into plas¬ 
ters of the requisite size. The best and cheapest wax is 
made by melting together one part of beeswax, two parts 
of tallow and four of rosin. 
As grafting early in spring is generally preferable, 
fmore especially for the cherry,) it becomes necessary in 
cool weather to soften the wax by artificial heat. A ket¬ 
tle of coals, or a lamp, may be used for this purpose. 
BUDDING. 
Budding is always to be performed when the bark peels 
freely, which takes place when the stocks are in a rapid¬ 
ly growing state. Cherries and plums should always be 
■ budded by the middle of summer; apples and pears often 
continue growing rapidly a month later, and peaches 
may be done even as late as the commencement of au¬ 
tumn. 
It is indispensable to successful budding, that the stock 
be thrifty, and the shoot in which the bud is inserted not 
more than a year or two old. No skill can succeed in 
old or stunted stocks. For the cambium or mucilaginous 
substance between the bark and wood, which hardens 
into the new wood, and which cements the bud to the 
stock, exists only in sufficient quantities for this purpose 
in fast growing branches. 
Every bud is an embryo plant, and the object is to 
transfer this from one tree to another. To effect this, it 
is only necessary that the bud be cut smoothly from the 
shoot with a very small portion of wood with it, and in¬ 
serted under the raised bark of the stock in close contact 
with the cambium. Provided the stock is thrifty and 
growing; the bud smoothly cut off, and closely and 
evenly applied to the stock; the cambium uninjured by 
removing the barks; and the bud be kept to its place a 
few days by a ligature of moderate pressure; it is of lit¬ 
tle consequence how the operation is performed, and 
there can be little danger of failure. 
The common way of cutting the bark to remove it, is 
to make a transverse cut and longitudinal slit, just 
through it,, like the letter T. The bud is then slid down¬ 
wards under the bark, in the middle of the slit. The 
whole operation should be performed with as little delay 
as possible. 
Whatever mode is adopted, the bark should always be 
lifted by placing the knife at the edge, and not by run 
ning it under , as this always injures the cambium. 
After the bud is inserted, the whole should be cover¬ 
ed, except the bud itself, with a ligature of moistened 
bass, corn-husk, tow, or other soft substance, bound 
round it with just sufficient force to press the bud closely 
on the stock. 
In about two weeks, or as soon as the ligature begins 
to cut into the stock, it must be removed. Early the 
following spring, the stock is to be cut off a quarter of 
an inch above the bud, and in a direction sloping towards 
it, and all the branches and other buds carefully removed 
that the whole nourishment may go to its growth. Some¬ 
times, (as in the apricot,) it is best to leave two or three 
inches of the stock above the bud, to tie the young shoot 
to, that it be not broken down by the wind. 
Disappointment very often arises in ^budding the peach 
and apricot from the buds, though well set, being win 
ter killed. This may be generally avoided by observing 
on the tree whence the buds are taken, on what part of 
the shoots the buds have withstood the preceding win¬ 
ter, and selecting accordingly. These will commonly 
be found to be the earliest formed buds on the thriftiest 
shoots. 
Shoots cut for budding should always have the leaver 
removed as soon as they are taken from the tree, about a 
quarter of an inch above the bud. They may then, if 
needed, be preserved several days in damp moss or cloth. 
Macedon, Wayne co., N. Y. J. J. T. 
GREEN PEAS IN WINTER. 
The editor of the “ Maine Cultivator” says he saw not 
long since, “ green peas as succulent to all appearance as 
they were when plucked from the vine some five or six 
months before.” The mode of preparing them, is to 
pick when of the proper size for eating, shell, and care¬ 
fully dry on cloths in the shade. All the care necessary, 
is to prevent their molding; this done they will be fine 
and sweet. Beans may be preserved in the same way, 
and with perfect success. If in addition, a stock of green 
corn is secured at the proper time, as it may easily, be, 
by scalding on the cob when fit for roasting or boiling, 
and then cutting or shelling the corn from the cob, and 
