1874 .] 
83 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
Keep Out of Debt. —It is better to work for some 
one else than to pay 12 or 15 per cent for money. 
Animals need special care this month. The 
weather is often changeable. We have sometimes 
a rain-storm that will drench even a sheep to the 
skin. Nothing can be more injurious to sheep un¬ 
less it is a close, damp, dirty basement stable. 
Sheep will stand severe cold, but they should al¬ 
ways have shelter from winds and rain. If they 
mimt be exposed to storms feed more grain. 
Eutea in Lamb should have as much exercise as 
they ean be induced to take. Be careful that they 
do not crowd each other in going through doors or 
gates. Do not feed musty hay. A moderate al¬ 
lowance of bran is desirable, but not enough to 
scour them. We find no ill effects from feeding 
large sheep one pound each of bran per day. If in 
high condition give no grain, but if thin or they 
are exposed to storms from a half to one pound 
each per day of oats or corn will be very beneficial. 
Fat Sheep are generally sold to good advantage 
this month. 
Ewes Suckling Lambs should have the best of 
oare and feed. Bran, mangel-wurzel, and clover hay 
will favor the production of milk. A little oat¬ 
meal, corn-meal, or bran stirred into the water they 
drink Is excellent. 
The Lambs if strong and healthy will begin to eat 
a little when two or three weeks old. Let them 
have a small trough with a little bran, or oil-cake, 
or oats, or sliced mangels separate from the ewes. 
Fbr Scours in young lambs we usually give a tea¬ 
spoonful of castor-oil and from three to five drops 
of laudanum. Magnesia or prepared chalk is good. 
For mild cases in older lambs or sheep there is 
nothing better than milk porridge made with fresh 
milk and wheat flour. Make it as you would if for 
yourself and give from half a pint to a pint to each. 
Cows in calf should have plenty of food and exer¬ 
cise. For three or four weeks before calving give 
sufficient flaxseed, bran, or oil-cake to keep the 
bowels moderately loose. If the cow is in high 
condition it is well to give from a half to one pound 
of Glanber’s-salts once a week for a month previous 
to calving. Two table-spoonfuls of ginger is a de- 
sirable addition to the drench. 
After Calving keep the cow in the stall for three 
or four days, give warm bran mashes. Let the 
cow have all the water she will drink, but take the 
chill off of it. If the cow is in lo iv condition and 
the placenta is not discharged give tonics such as 
oat or corn-meal gruel, bran mashes, flaxseed tea, 
or a pint of warm ale. The placenta may he some¬ 
times easily removed by taking it in the hands and 
gently twisting it as you would a rope. Keep 
twisting without pulling till it comes away. 
Milking Clean is very important. It is sometimes 
a good plan to draw all the milk you can get and 
then let the calf remain with the cow for an hour 
or so. It will milk clean. 
Morses that have been nearly idle all winter should 
now be worked moderately and fed better. Do not 
expose them to cold storms. Be careful to blanket 
them when they have to stand when heated. Clean 
thoroughly. See hints for last month. 
Swine are now attracting renewed attention. The 
prospects for breeders and feeders are encouraging. 
This stock is worthy of better care than it usually 
receives. 
Little ligs will come by the million this month 
and the next, and as usually managed will die by 
the thousand. 
The Sow for a week or so before the pigs are ex¬ 
pected should be placed in a warm, dry pen by her¬ 
self. Give light, sloppy food. If costive give her 
a pint of flaxseed boiled for two or three hours 
In half a pail of water. Give this once a day with 
bran till toe bowels are loose. When pigs come in 
•old weather our own plan is to cover the sow with 
a horse blanket and keep the little ones at the teats 
wader the blank el We have saved many pigs by 
#ris simple plan. Feed the sow warm bran mash 
ter a week with slops from the house, and after¬ 
wards give richer food. 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
The winter up to the time of writing has been 
so mild that many out-of-door operations could 
be carried on, and all who were so fortunate as to 
take advantage of this weather, will find a great 
difference in their spring work. March is usually 
such a blustering month that there is not much 
pleasure iu outside work, but every mild day 
should be turned to account if there is much still 
undone. Manure can be composted and carted 
out while the ground is hard at a less expense 
than later in the season. See that all the labor 
needed is provided for early, as the earlier a man 
is obtained in the spring the better is the chance of 
securing a useful one. Labor at this season is 
more abundant and cheaper than it will be later. 
Orchard and Nursery. 
Nurserymen will soon commence to send out 
stock, and all who have to procure their trees 
from a distance ought to send their orders at once. 
If delayed until the trees are wanted, the stock of 
many of the best varieties will often he exhausted. 
When the trees arrive unpack at once, and if the 
ground is not prepared for planting out, heel in in 
a dry spot until needed. When ready to plant the 
tops should be cut hack at least one third, and the 
branches shortened, to compensate for the loss of 
roots in removing from the nursery. If any 
Shriveled Trees are found bury the whole tree in 
the ground for a few days, and the bark will us¬ 
ually assume its plump condition. 
Girdled Trees should be treated as recommended 
last month. 
Grafting .—Cherry and Plum trees should be 
grafted earlier than apple and pear trees. 
Pruning .—Continue to prune while vegetation is 
dormant, taking care to cover all large cuts with 
melted grafting-wax, shellac varnish or paint. A 
good mixture for grafting-wax is with three parts 
beeswax, three parts rosin, and two parts tallow; 
melt and mix the whole well together. 
Cions. —Cut as long as the sap continues dor¬ 
mant, and preserve as before directed. 
Fruit Garden. 
Most of the directions given under the orchard 
and nursery will apply here. 
Baspberries. —Set as early as the ground will 
allow, in rows from four to six feet apart, accord¬ 
ing to the variety. If the old canes were not cut 
away in the fall, remove now, before the new 
growth commences. 
Blackberries ought to be planted early, before 
they commence their growth, as they are liable 
to be injured if moved after they have started. 
Six feet apart is sufficient if all suckers are kept 
out, and the branches pinched back during growth. 
Currants .—Make cuttings of such varieties as 
are wanted, and plant four inches asunder in rows 
two feet apart, taking care to press the earth firmly 
around the base of the cutting. 
Grape-vines .—Plant as soon as the soil is in 
proper condition, using no manure. Cut back the 
canes to three eyes, only one of which should be 
allowed to grow. Plow old vineyards and apply a 
dressing of coarse ground hones. Posts for trel¬ 
lises may be set whenever the frost is well out. 
Strawberries .—Plant out new beds and remove all 
runners not wanted for planting from the old beds. 
Set the plants in rows two feet apart, and eighteen 
inches in the rows. Mulch with leaves or cut 
straw to keep the newly-planted beds from drying 
out during the summer, and upon old beds to 
promote growth and keep the fruit clean. Use 
well-rotted manure before setting out plants. 
Kitchen Garden. 
It has been our custom to give the names of the 
standard varieties of vegetables in the March num¬ 
ber of the Agriculturist. From this list, those who 
are entirely unacquainted with the best sorts for 
general use, will be able to select varieties that 
have been well tested. They will find numerous 
other sorts in the catalogues. 
Early Plants .—The simplest way of securing 
early plants, where but a few are required, is to 
start them in window-boxes. These ought to be 
three or four inches deep, and filled to within half 
an inch of the top with fine, light, rich garden soiL 
For raising plants largely, of course they must be 
sown in a hot-bed. 
Cold Frames should be looked after carefully, 
and plenty of air given when the weather is mild, 
or else the plants will become drawn. Give water 
only when the soil appears dry. 
Novelties .—Every year our seedsmen offer novel¬ 
ties in their catalogues. These are often no better 
than older kinds, but now and then one finds a 
treasure, and the trial of novelties is an interesting 
part of gardening to those who can afford time and 
money. Some of the most promising novelties of 
this year will be found on page 102 of this number. 
Asparagus .—Old beds that were top-dressed last 
fall should have the litter raked off and the fine 
manure forked in between the plants. Set out 
new beds with one-year-old plants. The old way 
is to make the rows 18 inches apart, with the 
plants 9 inches apart in the rows. Our market 
growers give more room, setting the plants two 
feet or more apart each way. Set the plants four 
inches below the surface. Conover’s Colossal is a 
reliable variety. 
Beans must not be planted until all danger of 
frost is passed. Sow Early Valentine and Dwarf 
Wax for early bush in rows two feet apart. Giant 
Wax and Large Limas (when the season is long 
enough) are the best pole sorts for general use. 
Beets may be sown as soon as the frost is out of 
the ground, as they will bear considerable cold 
after they have been planted. Sow thickly in hills 
one foot apart; the thinuing can be used for greens. 
New Egyptian Blood is the best dark early sort, 
Bassano light colored but early; Long Blood late. 
Broccoli.—Sow and treat the same as recom¬ 
mended for cabbages. White or Purple Cape. 
Cabbage Plants wintered in a cold-frame may he 
set out as soon as the ground can be worked. 
Jersey Wakefield and Early York arc best early; 
Early Winnigstadt medium; Drumhead, Flat 
Dutch, and Late Bergen should be sown in open 
ground for late crops. Sow seeds in hot-bed and 
cold-frame for second early. There are always 
little spaces in a garden where a few cabbages may 
be put; a plenty of plants should be provided. 
Hot-beds .—This month will be the proper season 
for making hot-beds at the North. Select a dry, 
sheltered spot with a southern exposure if possi¬ 
ble, and dig a pit of the required size to a depth of 
eighteen inches to two feet; this pit ought to be 
at least a foot wider and longer than the frame 
used, and be boarded up with any old boards. Fill 
with horse manure to the bight of at least six 
inches above the surface of the ground, tramping 
it down firmly. Make the frame of inch hemlock 
boards two feet high at the back and one foot in 
front. After the manure has been put in place a 
layer of three to six inches of good light and rich 
garden soil on the manure. Bank up with earth 
around it; put on the frame; put the sashes on 
and let them remain for two or three days, or 
until the heat is reduced to about 90°, when the 
seeds may be sown. Sashes are usually 6x3 feet, 
but other sizes will answer. During cold nights 
cover with mats or shutters to keep the plants 
from freezing. 
Cold Frames are made in the same way as hot¬ 
beds, except that no manure is used; the frame is 
put upon a spot where the soil is rich and carefully 
prepared. Stir the soil often until it is thoroughly 
warmed by the heat of the sun, covering at night 
to retain the warmth, and then sow the seeds of such 
plants as do not require strong heat, such as cab¬ 
bage, lettuce, etc. 
Cauliflower .—Treat the same as cabbage, sowing 
