118 
THE CULTIVATOR. 
April 
bud; these are headed down nearly to the surface, yet 
such buds often make a growth the same season nearly 
or quite equal to those buds not transplanted. Hence, 
a transplanted peach tree will bear a very heavy prun¬ 
ing at the top, with no ultimate loss, but an actual gain, 
in the growth and size of the tree. A cherry tree has 
less reproductive power—a young seedling cherry, 
headed down when transplanted, will not make near so 
fine a growth as if left uncut at top. Hence cherry 
trees should be more sparingly pruned when set out. 
The reproductive power of the appleffies between the 
two; and should consequently receive a considerable, 
but not excessive pruning. 
The amount of thinning must also depend partly 
upon the climate. Where moisture is prevalent, less 
pruning is required than under the influence of dry, hot 
summers. Hence the climate of England admits a 
greater quantity of top and leaf, than that of the Uni¬ 
ted States. 
Many experiments might be adduced to show the 
advantages of freely pruning transplanted trees. As 
a sample of the whole, we need only to refer to two 
interesting experiments given in the Horticulturist. 
One hundred and eighty apple trees, in fair condition, 
were transplanted carefully in good ground. One half 
had their tops shortened back, so as to leave only one 
bud of the previous season’s wood. The other ninety 
were set out without any shortening. Of the pruned 
trees, only two died—of those not pruned eight died. 
The pruned trees nearly all made vigorous shoots— 
some eighteen inches. The unpruned grew but little, 
none making shoots over six inches. The second year, 
the pruned trees outstripped the others in size and 
growth, and presented a much more luxuriant aspect. 
The second experiment was performed with 78 peach 
trees, three years from the bud, and consequently of 
large size., One half had their heads reduced one half; 
the other were planted entire. The season was dry. 
One only of the pruned trees died, the rest made fine 
bushy heads. Twelve of the unpruned trees died, and 
none made a fine growth, many of the branches dying 
—nature thus performing imperfectly what the knife 
should have done. 
The annexed figures will exhibit more distinctly the 
proper mode of heading 
back apple and peach 
trees. Fig. 1 is a young 
apple tree with branch¬ 
es remaining, as com¬ 
monly taken from the 
nursery ; fig. 2, the same 
trimmed to a few bran¬ 
ches, and those headed 
back within a few in¬ 
ches of the stem. It is 
better to leave for these 
side branches, vigorous 
shoots of the past year, 
and cut off closely all 
others. Should the top, 
as represented, be too 
high, the tree must be 
headed down lower, as 
to the dotted line a in 
fig. 1, leaving the tree 
in the form of the por¬ 
tion above b in fig. 2, Fig-1. Fig. 2. 
the dotted line b representing in this case the surface 
of the ground. Peach trees may be treated in a nearly 
similar way. 
Trees of moderate size, set out in spring, and thus 
freely pruned, scarcely ever need staking. If set out 
in autumn, the pruning should be deferred till spring, 
which is indispensable with half-tender trees, as the 
peach, and in which case they must be secured from the 
effects of the wind by a 
stake, or by a mound of 
earth. If a stake is used, 
care is needed to prevent 
chafing the tree, by the use 
of a large soft band. We 
have found a mound of earth 
one foot high, with a piece 
of turf at top encircling 
the tree, a sufficient stiffen¬ 
er against all winter winds. 
Such a mound also excludes 
the frost from the roots, and 
renders autumn transplant¬ 
ing of peach trees compar¬ 
atively safe. It is levelled 
to the surface in the spring 
after the head is pruned. 
In the annexed figure (fig. 
surface of the ground, the dotted lines at b the mound 
of earth, and a the piece of turf at top for more effec¬ 
tually securing the tree to its place. One of these 
mounds is thrown up with a spade in thirty seconds. 
There are some other important requisites in suc¬ 
cessful transplanting more or less known to cultivators; 
among the principal are,—pruning off all the bruised 
ends of roots, to prevent decay spreading; pouring in 
a few quarts of water to settle the fine earth among 
the roots, before the whole is quite filled; and setting 
the tree at the same depth as before removal, raising 
the mellow earth in a convex form two or three inches 
above the surface, to allow for settling. 
Fig. 3. 
3,) c indicates the common 
Grafting and Prutaing Old Orchards. 
[The writer of the following has had much experi¬ 
ence, and has shown unusual skill, in the successful 
management of Fruit Trees, and his remarks are com¬ 
mended to the attention of orchardists.— Ed.] 
There are thousands of large apple trees grafted 
every year, and much loss is often experienced from a 
lack of knowledge as regards their management. I 
have thought that the experience of one who has spent 
much time in grafting and pruning such trees, might 
be a benefit to those about having the work done. 
Trees are often mutilated and disfigured by ignorant 
persons. Some have thought that a few limbs grafted 
on the top of a large tree was sufficient—the other 
branches were cut off close to the trunk. Such per¬ 
sons do not consider that the larger the top, the more 
fruit the tree will produce. When there are but few 
limbs left, nature makes an effort to supply that which 
is lost; they make a vigorous growth of wood, and it 
is many years before much fruit is borne. The wounds 
that are made soon begin to decay, cavities are formed, 
and water accumulates in the trunk, which is taken up 
and carried into circulation by the sap, often causing 
death to the tree in a few years. A few such trees as I 
have described would spoil the beauty of any farm or ru¬ 
ral scene, let all other improvements be what they may. 
But I shall endeavor to show in as plain a manner 
as possible, (I do not pretend that it is perfect,) my 
way of management. In grafting large trees it is ne¬ 
cessary to form a round well balanced top; and in order 
to effect this, the lower limbs should be grafted near 
their extremities. The next grafts above, nearer the 
centre of the tree; for young grafts make an upright 
growth, and if one set is placed directly above and 
near the lower, they soon grow together; but if placed 
gradually nearer the centre as you proceed in forming 
the top, the fruit will all be exposed to the sun and air 
alike, and all the grafts will have an equal chance to 
grow. 
