204 
THE) RURAE NEW-YORKER 
March 2, 
MARYLAND GARDEN NOTES. 
The earliest things I put in the open 
ground are the extra early peas. I sow 
the Nonpareil and Alaska as early in 
February as I can get the ground in or¬ 
der. For neatness I use various widths 
of the chicken wire netting for the dif¬ 
ferent varieties of peas to climb on. It 
is so easy to roll it up afterwards and 
it is then ready for another season. The 
wrinkled peas I sow in March and wind 
up the pea planting with the old Cham¬ 
pion of England the last of March. 
I plant Norfolk early corn in March. 
It is not a sugar corn but can be planted 
earlier, and I have had it pass through 
two white frosts safely. The earliest 
sweet corn I plant is a nameless one 
that was sent me from Port Chester, N. 
Y. I shall also plant Malakoff. Golden 
Bantam is too bantam for this latitude 
and gives too little to give it room. For 
later corn I plant Country Gentleman 
and Stowell’s Evergreen in succession 
till August, when I wind up the corn 
planting with the Port Chester and 
Malakoff. Under double glazed sashes 
on cold frame I sow beets of the Egyp¬ 
tian variety and turnip radishes in alter¬ 
nate rows six inches apart in January. 
The radishes come off early and the 
beets then have the 12-inch rows. Out¬ 
doors I sow beets of the Eclipse and a 
few Egyptian in late February. If they 
escape frost in the seed leaf stage they 
will stand a good deal of frost after¬ 
wards. The Egyptian is early, but soon 
becomes poor in quality, and the Eclipse 
is better. Beets for Winter use I plant 
in June or July. 
Parsnips and salsify are commonly 
planted in the North among the earliest 
things, but here I find that this results 
in overgrown and woody roots, so I 
plant in June at same time I plant car¬ 
rots, and all of them are left in the rows 
where they grew for the Winter. I find 
that here the frost seems to improve the 
carrots. My early green onions were 
planted from sets of the Norfolk Queen 
in September, and owing to the very 
mild Fall and early Winter they came 
into use the first week in January, a 
month or more earlier than usual. Since 
then they have been locked up tightly 
in the soil and I have not yet found out 
how they have fared. For these sets I 
sow seed of the Norfolk Queen in April 
very thickly. These ripen in July and 
are cured for the planting in September. 
I sow seed in a cold frame in January 
of the Prizetaker or Denia onion and 
transplant them in March. These make 
very large yellow onions often weighing 
a pound each. For ripe onions I sow 
seed of the Southport White and Yel¬ 
low Globe as early as the soil can be 
worked in good order. These are 
thinned to three inches, and they keep 
better than any of the Italian or Span¬ 
ish varieties. Yellow potato onions are 
planted in September and the offshoots 
can be used as green onions and the 
large ones left to mature, these, too, are 
poor keepers and must be used or sold 
early, but they come into market before 
the Northern crop of ripe onions, and 
usually sell well. 
I sow seed of the tomatoes for early 
planting 10 weeks before it is safe to 
set them outside. Sow inside in flats 
and transplant to other flats two inches 
apart, and from these to the cold frame 
in March, where they are gradually 
hardened off so that they can be set 
here in April. If frost threatens after 
they are out I turn the plants down 
carefully and shovel the soil over them 
quickly, I have carried them through a 
temperature of 21 above zero in this 
way. I have found that the Adirondack 
strain of Earliana is the earliest tomato 
grown, Bonny Best comes in soon after, 
then for main crop I use Success and 
Stone. I train tomatoes to stakes six 
feet tall, planting in rows three feet 
apart and two feet in the row. I cannot 
keep my garden clean with tomatoes that 
are allowed to tumble on the ground, 
for they will get enveloped in grass 
while on the stakes we can keep them 
clean. 
Eggplants are fickle things and need 
careful management. I sow seed as I 
do the tomatoes, but pot them into three- 
inch pots and keep under glass till the 
weather is fully settled, for you can 
harden a tomato to endure some cool 
weather, but if you try to harden off 
an eggplant you will soon have a dead 
one. Eggplants want a very rich soil, 
and should never be allowed to 
suffer from drought. Plenty of water is 
essential to their growth. I use the 
Black Beauty instead of the old New 
York Improved and find it very good 
and prolific. 
While I grow lettuce all Winter in my 
frames I also sow some seed outside in 
the earliest Spring to transplant for the 
latest heading. For this sowing I use 
the Hanson and the Wonderful. This 
last seems to be an exaggerated 
Hanson, and makes the largest heads of 
any lettuce. I sow the seed thinly broad¬ 
cast so that I can get better plants for 
transplanting than when sown thickly 
in rows. 
I always sow some Stone tomato seed 
in an open border in April to give me 
plants to follow the early ones, and have 
a lot of green fruit when the frost 
comes. These I gather and wrap in 
paper and store in boxes in the cellar 
and bring out a few at a time to ripen 
in a warm room for slicing. Now, Jan¬ 
uary 16, I still have some green toma¬ 
toes in the cellar. 
Here I prefer to set strawberry plants 
in November, as they live better, the 
dry weather being over. But in cooler 
climates the Spring is the only time to 
set them unless you have potted plants. 
I grow my own potted plants, and I do 
not crawl around and bury pots along 
the rows for them to root in. That is 
too much bother. I watch the earliest 
runners, and when they have made roots 
an inch long I take them up carefully 
and carry them to a convenient potting 
bench and pot them in three-inch pots. 
These are placed on a bed of coal ashes 
in a frame and sheltered with lath 
screens nailed an inch apart. Care is 
taken to keep them watered and they 
soon fill the pots with roots and are 
ready to transplant at any time. These 
potted plants set in the fall will give 
a full crop the next spring. For the 
main crop of strawberries I have found 
nothing better than the Chesapeake. It 
is not early, but is a little earlier than 
Gandy and does well on dry soils Where 
the Gandy is worthless. Lady Thomp¬ 
son, the great early berry of the South 
Atlantic region, is not of value here. 
For an early berry the Lea is probably 
the best. 
The coming blackberry is the Nanti- 
coke. It is an enormous bearer and 
comes in after all others are gone. It is 
yet too high-priced to be planted largely, 
for $1 per plant is big for a blackberry. 
My neighbor, Allen, says that it is worth 
many times over what the much adver¬ 
tised Himalayan berry is. This has been 
found worthless here. Of red raspber¬ 
ries nothing yet has proved better than 
the Cuthbert and of the blackcaps the 
Black Diamond is good. Columbian is a 
purple berry of the Shaffer type, makes 
very large fruit and the plants are very 
hardy. Of dewberries the Austin is tak¬ 
ing the place of the Lucretia for home 
use, but is not so good a shipper. 
Wicomico Co., Md. w. f. massey. 
jjt 
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