1912. 
RURAb NBW-YORKER 
313 
A NEW YORK CHERRY ORCHARD. 
I send a picture taken in my cherry 
orchard in July, 1911, just before the 
crop was gathered. This orchard was 
planted 11 years ago. The trees were 
two years from budded stock when 
planted in the field. They are set as 
fillers in an apple orchard, every alter¬ 
nate row being solid cherry trees. I 
plant about nine out of every 10 Mont¬ 
morency Ordinaire. This orchard 
shown in picture has never had an ap¬ 
plication of fertilizer and stable ma- 
A N. Y. CHERRY ORCHARD. Fig. U 6 . 
nure until the past year, and has had 
two rotations of crops of three years 
each. The rest of the time it has been 
in Timothy sod. This block of trees 
comprises about eight acres, and last 
Spring I made an application of about 
150 tons of stable manure drawn from 
the city livery stables. I live only about 
a half mile from the city of Hudson, so 
I take advantage of this, and apply each 
load broadcast on the field in its raw 
state. This I draw in the Winter and 
plow under in the Spring. 
The pruning of these trees has been 
looked after very carefully. It is very 
necessary to cut away all limbs that 
have a tendency to cross the head of 
the tree tops, and in that way keep the 
head open to let in the sunshine. Trees 
pruned in this manner will ripen their 
fruit very evenly. My crop of cherries 
in 1911 consisted of 2,250 eight-pound 
baskets, which were marketed at an 
average price of 40 cents a basket. 
C. M. 
Columbia Co., N. Y. 
Distance Apart for Apples; Dynamite. 
C. F., Stratham, N. II .—I have read the 
Hope Farm letters a good many years, and 
have a sort of mental picture of the farm 
and orchards,, but I wish he would tell us 
how far apart the trees are planted and if 
they are in squares. I have just had a 
visit from a young friend, a graduate from 
the New Hampshire State College, who has 
planted over 1,000 apple trees and intends 
to plant some thousands more; he plants in 
squares at various distances apart accord¬ 
ing to varieties, for instance, Baldwins 36 
feet, McIntosh 33 feet. I asked him what 
he would do at spraying time when the 
trees are full grown and cover all the 
ground, as they surely will when mature. 
I know most speakers and writers on or¬ 
chard planting advise squares, but in view 
of later spraying, do you not think a better 
plan would be to plant in lanes? For in¬ 
stance, instead of my friend’s Baldwins 
being 36 feet apart each way, have them 
planted 38 by 45 feet, so that when grown 
to maturity he would have a lane between 
each two rows, giving him good room for 
spray rig, picking wagon, etc. Having 
planted some orchards by this plan I would 
like an opinion upon it. What do the col¬ 
lege experts think about blasting holes for 
tree planting? 
Ans. —Our first plantings were made 
32 feet apart each way. In some cases 
we used fillers of apple, peach and plum 
as experiments. As a result we put no 
more peach trees among apples. The 
two fruits are quite distinct in habit of 
growth and feeding, and the combina¬ 
tion does not work well with us. With 
apples, however, we like the fillers and 
now plant 20 feet apart each way, with 
alternate rows of fillers such as 
Wealthy, Wagener or Black Ben Davis. 
McIntosh is not so good as a filler, as 
it makes a broad spreading head and 
is valuable enough to serve as a per¬ 
manent tree.. With the trees 40 feet 
apart and well cut back we expect to be 
able to spray, thoroughly. The best tree 
on the farm, however, is a Baldwin 
which represents a planting of about 50 
feet each way. This has a broad spread¬ 
ing head and gives a heavy yield of fine 
fruit. This would mean about 18 trees 
to the acre, while 20 feet apart means 
100 and 40 feet about 28. The close- 
planted filler plan appeals to a man of 
middle age, as he can hope for more 
out of it during his own life. The idea 
of planting in lanes is somewhat new 
and seems like a good one. We called 
for volunteer experiences about the use 
of dynamite. The response indicates 
that such use is profitable and growing 
in favor. 
COLD FRAME MELON CULTURE. 
PART III. 
We practice deep cultivation until the 
vines begin to run, then we use Planet, 
Jr., cultivators and sweeps, running often 
between the rows, keeping down all 
weeds, and a fine dust mulch in dry 
times. As the vines get longer we stop 
cultivating the narrow way, and work 
the vines only the wide way. Canta¬ 
loupes are generally planted 5x7—water¬ 
melons farther apart. We keep the 
sweeps and hoes going until pickings be¬ 
gin, training the longer vines to run 
across the narrow way, leaving the 
open space the wide way for the pick¬ 
ers, as it is best not to tramp the vines 
more than necessary. We spray with 
Bordeaux mixture three or four times 
and have generally had good results, es¬ 
pecially in the North, having grown 
good, high-flavored melons when other 
unsprayed fields in same section pro¬ 
duced nothing with good flavor. The 
last spraying is given just before the 
melons begin to ripen. I consider this 
last spraying the most important of all. 
A sharp watch must be kept at all 
times for the aphis, or melon louse. I 
find the surest way is to destroy all 
affected plants as soon as discovered. 
This is done by burying the hill and 
carefully scraping in the top soil that 
was under the hill, so as to get every 
louse that drops off and bury it. Cover 
these up and that will be death to that 
lot of lice. We pick off the “lady-bugs” 
and save all of them, as they live on 
the plant lice and are of great benefit 
in helping to keep this pest under con¬ 
trol. When large commercial fields are 
grown, there should be driveways every 
18 or 20 rods. These driveways should 
run crosswise of the wide way of the 
rows. Pickers should walk between the 
rows and not on them; when they come 
to a driveway the melons are carefully 
deposited in the field crates that have 
been previously distributed. These j 
crates hold about 1 % bushels. When 
these crates are filled they are hauled 
to the packing shed and emptied in the 
“shoot.” This is abut 20 feet wide and 
16 feet deep, sloping enough so the 
melons will roll to the packers as fast 
as they are sorted and packed for mar¬ 
ket. 
The package used depends upon the 
market to which the melons are going, 
12xl2x24-inch crate being the standard 
size for all Gem melons. In some sec¬ 
tions the one-half bushel climax basket 
is more largely used, 45 melons to the 
crate, and 16 to the basket, smaller mel¬ 
ons going into the pony crates, 11x11 
heads and 24-inch slats, or in baskets, 
running more to the basket. We also 
use a flat crate 24 inches long, 13 1-2 
inches wide and 4 1-2 inches deep. This 
crate is used largely for the salmon- 
colored melons, and will hold one dozen 
standard melons. Sides, tops and bot¬ 
tom are made of heavy veneer. In Cen¬ 
tral and Eastern States the melons are 
allowed to remain on the vines until they 
“slip” off the stem with a little pressure. 
In the West and South where long dis¬ 
tance shipments have to be made, they 
are clipped from two to four days be¬ 
fore they would naturally ripen on the 
vines. It is best to use packages, even 
in small towns, as it enables dealers to 
deliver to hotels and restaurants in orig¬ 
inal packages. paul rose. 
Michigan. 
The Seed Box is Hung 
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