1912. 
THE) RURAL, NRW-YORKRR 
sei 
BACKYARD GARDEN IN 1911. 
Part IV. 
I have now run up the largest lead 
of any time during the year, and I am 
about done as to sales. The stalks for 
25 cents finished up for 1911, whose 
total sales were $101.36, but after this 
date in 1910 I sold $3.25 and used $5.24, 
while in 1911 I used $2.61. Score at 
finish for year: 1910, used $38.34; sold, 
$96.02; total, $134.36; 1911, used $42.40; 
sold, $101.36; total, $143.76. A safe mar¬ 
gin is $9.40, and it brings a certain 
satisfaction which is apparent to those 
who have played the game, from the 
bright hopes which the contribution from 
the cold frame gave me a start on April 
1 and the cold late April which lost 
about 10 days in time of planting and 
was backward even after planting, and 
May so dry that all you could seem to 
do was barely to keep alive what things 
were up. June with more rainfall, which 
was fine for some crops, but with the 
month came the practical failure of all 
pea crops, hardly a quarter of a crop. 
Early July was so hot that everything 
seemed to bake; there was the loss by 
two days’ neglect to shade of 600 celery 
plants; the earliest and best of the lot. 
The alternate hopes and discourage¬ 
ments from various causes with the 
gains and losses of the game compared 
with previous records, the grim deter¬ 
mination to keep at it until the end, to 
win if you can, I know nothing that 
equals the zest of it, and it is nourished 
on vegetables fresh from garden to 
table in one hour and often less, which 
you planted, cultivated, gathered and 
ate yourself with the enjoyment of an 
appetite fresh from the exercise in the 
open air. 
The sales were made up of the follow¬ 
ing : Beets, $13.75; tomatoes, $6.82; let¬ 
tuce, $11.75; tomato plants, $2.70; corn, 
72 cents; carrots, 30 cents; radishes, 
$16.80; scallions, $1.12; onions, $2.23; 
peppers, $1.35; spinach, $1.37; green 
beans, $1.34; wax beans, $1.11; celery, 
$35.30; strawberries, $1.65; peas, 95 
cents; cabbage, 55 cents; Lima beans, 
$1.30; stalks, 25 cents; total sales, 
$101.36. We used: Lettuce, $4.95; 
radishes, 49 cents; spinach, 38 cents; 
corn, $6.40; rhubarb, 35 cents; tomatoes, 
$14.89; peas, $2.04; strawberries, $5.93; 
beets, 90 cents; green beans, 38 cents; 
celery, $1.17; peppers, 25 cents; Bovee 
potatoes, $1.50; onions, 25 cents; Lima 
beans, 93 cents; squashes, 37 cents; car¬ 
rots, three cents; cucumbers, 15 cents; 
cabbage, 10 cents; eggplants, 34 cents; 
parsnips, 60 cents; total $42.40. 
Just a hint or two as to the time we 
were able to enjoy some of these things. 
Lettuce from March to January by aid 
of cold frames; corn for about four 
months; strawberries for a month fresh 
and then canned; tomatoes from July to 
December, raw and canned the remain¬ 
der of year; these are a few samples. 
The garden is 45x77 feet, approximately 
.08 of an acre; rate per acre of yield, 
$1,797. 
The garden was cultivated almost en¬ 
tirely with a Planet, Jr., No. 16 single 
wheel hoe. I tried to cultivate about 
once a week during the early growing 
season of any crop, and also to stir the 
ground just as soon after each shower 
as it is fit to do so. To get the most 
from a small backyard garden I would 
suggest one or two things. Plant crops 
suitable in small lots in succession, corn 
as an example. My first planting, two 
varieties, equal two successions, and sec¬ 
ond planting same; four other plantings 
follow, equal to eight plantings in all; 
eating corn for more than three months. 
Keep the soil at work throughout the 
entire Summer. If you don’t keep good 
plants growing in it, nature will furnish 
weeds to fill it up; nature is never idle. 
Again, kill a weed before it grows and 
you have avoided a weed seed for the 
next year. Remember that Spring crops 
planted later require more fertilizing, 
more room and better cultivation, and 
while they cost a little more care you 
also get a little better flavor with them 
if you can grow them quickly at an odd 
season. The yield will probably not be 
so good. STANTON KIRKBRIDE. 
Hollow Celeriac. 
M., Tylers villc, Pa .—I raised some celeriac 
two years now, and had nice stock, but 
many were hollow and worthless. Is there 
any difference in kind of celeraic, or soil 
or cultivation, that caused it to be so, or 
is there any way to prevent it? I wish to 
raise some this year. 
Ans.—Y es, there are different varie¬ 
ties of celeriac. Probably the best for 
your use would be the Giant Prague. It 
does best on a rich garden soil which is 
mellow and friable on account of having 
been liberally supplied with humus. If 
I were you I would broadcast the land 
with a heavy coat of well-rotted stable 
manure. Plow deeply and harrow as 
often as necessary to put the land in 
fine mechanical condition. Plant in rows 
2^4 feet apart. Cultivate often to keep 
down weeds and conserve the moisture. 
Give frequent hand hoeings to keep soil 
loose about the plants. If you do this it 
will keep them in good vigorous growth, 
and I think you will not be troubled with 
hollow hearts. c. g. t. 
Onions in Kansas. 
Will you tell me the best way to raise 
onions from sets? The ground I wish to 
use is a sandy loam, was heavily manured 
with livery stable manure last Fall. It gets 
very warm here in Summer, and often very 
dry. Would it be best to mulch the onions 
after they got a good start? L. c. b. 
Harper, Kan. 
Onions seems to be an easy crop to raise 
in Kansas, either from sets or seed. The 
land should be plowed in the Fall, then as 
soon as dry enough to plant, put in the 
sets or seed as you have them. The sets 
can be as near as three inches apart, seed 
more closely ; the covering should be slightly 
pressed against the sets or seed, and then 
as soon as a weed shows hoe it, or better 
use a wheel hoe and stir the ground. Keep 
it stirred often, do not let a weed get to 
any size, and by a free use of the wheel 
cultivator the soil should be the best for 
mulch. Any other mulch would be In the 
way of culture, and let weeds have a chance 
to grow. With a good crop of weeds you 
will have no onions, unless the weeds grow 
after the onions are made; then I find no 
objection for them to grow and shade the 
onions, so as to be ready to gather later 
when wanted. In preparing the ground in 
the Spring it should be thoroughly worked 
over to pulverize it and work out all lumps; 
any work before planting is so much better 
than later. a. h. griesa. 
Kansas. 
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