19 J 2. 
679 
THE R'URAb 
NEW-YORKER 
Seeding a Maine Pasture. 
Johnson Grass. 
I am on a farm that has not had much 
care in years gone by; the soil is sandy. 
I would like to know about grass for pas¬ 
ture. I wish to take up a new piece. What 
kind of seed for grain and grass should 
be sown to get best results? What kind 
of seed for earliest feed for horses and 
cow? Is fertilizer needed and how much? 
Hollis Centre, Me. G. H. D. 
Replying to the above questions some¬ 
what in the order in which they are asked, 
I would say first that it is a little hard 
to tell just what the writer means by 
sandy land, but from my knowledge of the 
locality, I would suppose he means a sandy 
loam, one capable of producing good crops 
if properly fertilized and tilled, and assum¬ 
ing that such is the case we will make 
the answers accordingly. The land to be 
taken up, probably, is land cleared for a 
long time, but not plowed often. I would 
advise first of all a very careful plowing, 
not more than six inches deep at most, as 
he will want to take full advantage of 
what organic matter there may be in the 
first two or three inches of the top surface. 
Then, with a disk harrow, cut the land up 
thoroughly, so as to hasten the decay of 
the organic matter. The land is now ready 
for the fertilizer and seed. I would cer¬ 
tainly advise the use of fertilizer, as by 
so doing he will increase the yield of his 
crops of grain and grass, get a better 
stand from the grass seed sown, and there¬ 
by get better returns for his labors. I 
would advise the use of chemicals if they 
can be purchased in the inquirer’s nearby 
markets to advantage. The chemicals that 
have proved most profitable and productive 
on the sandy loam soils of my vicinity are 
nitrate of soda, muriate of potash and acid 
phosphate, mixed at the rate of one part 
of the first two ingredients to two parts 
of the last, and applied at the time of 
sowing the seed at the rate of 400 pounds 
to the acre, and well harrowed into the 
soil. If these chemicals are not to be ap¬ 
plied at once after mixing, it will be well 
to throw them into a compact pile, let 
them lie for a day or two, then work them 
over again. If it is not convenient to get 
the chemicals I would use the mixed goods, 
buying a grass and grain fertilizer and 
applying it at the rate of 500 pounds to 
the acre. 
Now for the kinds of seed. I would ad¬ 
vise sowing as early in the Spring as pos¬ 
sible, using oats for the grain and as a 
nurse crop. 1 would use only the best of 
seed, having winnowed them down to a uni¬ 
form size and weight. Not more than three 
bushels of the seed should be sown to the 
acre, as oats will stool somewhat a stiffer 
stand will result, and a much better stand 
or catch of grass will be obtained. As to 
the kinds and amounts of grass seed I will 
advise a mixture of White, Ited and Alsike 
clovers, Orchard grass, cleaned Red top, 
Timothy and Kentucky Blue grass. I would 
ues about 10 pounds of the clovers, di¬ 
vided as you may think best, four quarts 
of the Timothy, one-half bushel of the 
Orchard grass and one peck of the Ken¬ 
tucky Blue grass. By using so great a 
variety of seed, an earlier growth will be 
secured and the growing season of the 
grasses will be extended. By cutting the 
oats as early as possible a better growth 
of the grasses will be secured the first 
season, they will winter better and start 
stronger the following year. When turning 
this newly seeded land to pasture, great 
care should be exercised to prevent damage 
by tramping and too close cropping. The 
animals should not be turned on until the 
grass is well started in the Spring, neither 
should they be allowed to remain on it 
so long at any one time as to feed it so 
low that it will not soon recover. 
B. WALKER MC KEEN. 
Spring in Idaho. 
Snow began to fall ' here November 3, 
1011, and it has been almost a continual 
fall of snow since then. In the valley it 
is six feet deep on the level, and increases 
in depth as the hills ascend, and not only 
that; Winter so far as we are concerned 
will last until May 1, for this is a mining 
camp 5,000 feet above sea level. And yet, 
strange paradox you will say, only seven 
miles as the bird flies, Spring has come. 
But in that seven miles we drop 3,000 feet. 
I have learned something about a sod 
orchard and a cultivated orchard, and here, 
when the next man asks, “Shall I plant 
an orchard in sod” tell him no. Scratch 
that ground with a bull-tongue or any 
old thing, before you set your trees out. 
If too rocky drive a sharp pointed crowbar 
16 or 18 inches in the ground where you 
want to set your tree, put a half stick of 
dynamite in the hole, and loosen the ground 
up; it will save lots of elbow grease and 
sweat. On a hillside set the rows 
with the contour of the hill with a slight 
grade, say 10 feet to the mile, three-eighths 
inch fall in a rod. By the way, why don’t 
you Easterners use a lot of that flood 
water that goes to waste every year for 
irrigation purposes? Why don’t you build 
storage reservoirs? That is the only pre¬ 
ventive of inundating floods. H. s. 
Idaho. 
Inoculation for Vetch. 
I sowed 100 pounds of vetch (Winter) 
with rye last Autumn, and it only seems 
to have caught on in peach orchard; no 
sign of any growing in the cornfields. How 
would it be to use some of the soil from 
the peach orchard to inoculate the vetch for 
the cornfields this season, as I propose to 
try it again? If this can be done with 
good results just how would you proceed? 
We shall have no peaches down here this 
year. e. j. w. 
Rhode Island. 
Pull up full-grown plants of vetch and 
examine the roots. If you find the warts 
or nodules in these roots you may 
be sure that the bacteria are present. 
This soil will be suitable for inoculating. 
Dig it out to about six inches deep where 
the vetch grows well and scatter it in the 
cornfield at time of seeding. Use 400 
pounds per acre of this soil. 
I have never had any experience with 
Johnson grass, but have been told by those 
who have that it is easily killed out. I 
think in Alabama they pasture with hogs 
to kill it. This is the time of year the 
renter dreads. This part of eastern Ne¬ 
braska is farmed to a great extent by rent¬ 
ers. At the present time (March 2) the 
roads are drifted full and have been for a 
week. Previous to that time the mud was 
something fierce. To-day there is another 
6torm in operation. R. F. D. carriers have 
not been out for a week. Feed is scarce; 
Alfalfa hay, about $22 per ton; prairie 
hay, $18; wheat straw, $7.50 baled; oat, 
$9; corn, 60 cents per bushel; hogs, $5.70. 
A car of Colorado potatoes unloaded here 
two weeks ago and sold to the four store¬ 
keepers at $1.25 are retailed out at 40 
cents per basket, or $1.75 per bushel. One 
store advertises this way : “The store that 
saves you money.” I think possibly the 
editor’s devil made a mistake in setting the 
type. It should read: “The store that 
eaves your money.” That means a profit 
of at least $300 per car. That one small 
profit looks mighty big to me. p. H. B. 
Saline Co.. Neb. 
Oats and Peas; Millet. 
I have about three acres of ground that 
was in oats last year, and clover failed; 
would like to put in oats and peas for hay. 
How do you sow them, with the oats, or 
first, then oats? How much of each to the 
acre? What time do you sow and when do 
you cut? I have about five acres of Tim¬ 
othy that I want to pasture in Spring, then 
would like to put something in that would 
make feed. Would it be possible to plow 
one half of it in early June and sow to 
millet with fair results, the rest to go to 
fodder corn? If so, what kind of millet 
should I sow and how much to the acre? 
We are going to be short of long feed this 
coming year for horses, as we expect to feed 
all the fodder to cattle. Q. M. w. 
Franklin Co., Pa. 
R. N.-Y.—We have often told how to plow 
five pecks of Canada peas under and then 
sow three bushels of oats. Some judgment 
is required to know when to cut the crop. 
We go by the appearance of the oats. When 
we find the grain soft and “milky” the crop 
is cut. You can sow Japanese millet and 
fodder corn after plowing the sod, hut you 
will need some good fertilizer to make much 
of a crop. Follow both of them with rye. 
Preparing for Mixed Hay. 
I intend sowing a four-acre field which 
has been cultivated to corn these last five 
years to oats and mixed hay, Timothy 
clover and little Alfalfa. What gain would 
there be, if any, in sowing and harvesting 
the oats first and then sowing the hay mix¬ 
ture? Would I have to replow it if I did? 
Montville, N. J. D. c. 
You would get a surer stand of grass by 
Fall seeding. We should sow oats and 
Canada peas this Spring and cut them for 
hay. Then plow the stubble and keep it 
worked with a harrow through the Sum¬ 
mer. Keep the soil stirred up and put in 
the grass seed in August or September. 
This gives a better fitting to the soil and a 
fairer chance for the grass, but means the 
extra work and expense of cultivation for 
the grass crop. 
Chimney Construction. 
I have read the article on the house 
chimney on page 425 which states that the 
furnace flue should not have any other 
opening than for the furnace smoke pipe. 
I have a three-family house with chimney 
with one 8x12 clay lined flue, straight to, 
and four feet above roof, which has two 
eight-inch furnace smoke pipes in cellar, 
three kitchen smoke pipes on the three 
floors and a sitting room stove pipe on 
third floor. These six openings for two hot 
air heaters, three cook stoves and one base 
burner have been extra busy this Winter, 
an3 I have had no complaint that there 
was not enough draught. h. t. 
Waterbury, Conn. 
Killing Brake. —If S. M. W., page 394, 
will mow the brakes when they get full 
height twice in one season I think he will 
have very little of it to do the second sea¬ 
son. w. H. G. 
Shelburne Falls, Mass. 
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