1012. 
THE RUR VL NEW-YORKER 
Weaving Information Wanted. 
Will some of the kindly readers of 
The R. N.-Y. tell us something about 
the weaving of the old-time coverlets 
or bedspreads? I would like so much to 
get patterns or drafts of them. I earn 
my living weaving, and. this would be 
of great help to me. mrs. m. c. p. 
Root Beer and Temperance. 
You ask for a recipe for “old-fash¬ 
ioned” root beer. I have the recipe, 
but have never made any, nor would I, 
a white ribbon woman, be justified in 
giving it to others. The recipe is made 
up with yeast the same as commercial 
root beer, the so-called temperance drink, 
and after standing in a warm place 
until it sparkles as it is supposed to do, 
it contains alcohol the same as any 
other drink that “moveth itself aright,” 
more or less according to the amount 
of sugar used, the time of standing and 
the weather. I would no more give it 
to my family to drink than I would 
keep a barrel of hard cider on tap, and 
God knows I would not do that. 
Some one may say “if yeast working 
in a sweetened liquid produces alcohol 
how about bread?” I answer: We do 
not eat raw bread dough. The heat of 
the oven drives out the alcohol. Boil 
your root beer after it is made and it 
will not harm you, neither will you 
care for it. 
We make lemonade for a harvest 
drink, but for the jug to take to the 
lot and which sometimes gets warm the 
men prefer the following: One cup 
sugar, one-quarter teaspoon ginger well 
stirred into the dry sugar, six table¬ 
spoons sharp vinegar and three quarts 
cold water. Care should be taken to 
empty the jug at night, for in warm 
weather it may work by morning and is 
then unfit for drinking. 
What a beautiful life was Margaret 
Sangster’s! She being dead yet 
speaketh. If each of the women who 
read these columns will commit to 
memory the beautiful poem on page 728, 
and will make it a part of her life, how 
much sweetness will be brought into 
many homes! h. e. m. 
More About Removing Wall Paper. 
On page 708 Mrs. G. C. inquires as to 
how to remove old wall paper. I have 
had 13 years’ experience as a painter 
and paperhanger, and would suggest 
the following, which I consider the best 
of several methods I have used: First 
you need a whitewash or kalsomine 
brush about seven inches wide costing 
S1.25 or $1.50, also scraper, made pur¬ 
posely for this work, which has a much 
wider blade than a putty knife, being 
about inches wide. There are two 
styles of these scrapers, one with handle 
similar to a putty; knife, the other with¬ 
out handle, but a broom handle can be 
used with it, and the latter is most con¬ 
venient because you can worlc with both 
hands. Either can be procured at any 
paint supply house. 
Use a pail (large enough to dip brush 
in) partly filled with boiling water; be¬ 
ginning with the ceiling, brush the boil¬ 
ing water on the paper, thoroughly 
soaking same before attempting to 
scrape paper off. If thoroughly soaked 
paper will come off easily from the wall, 
sometimes as much as three thicknesses. 
One person can remove paper from a 
room as large as 14x14x9 in four to 
five hours. c. s. friar. 
If Mrs. G. C. will use boiling hot 
water with a whitewash brush and apply 
it quickly and thoroughly over the paper 
while hot it can easily be removed. The 
hotter the water the better it will pene¬ 
trate and should be renewed often and 
a constant supply kept on the stove dur¬ 
ing the operation. The operation is the 
same in principle as steaming a letter 
over a teakettle to remove the envelope. 
Of course there will be spots that will 
not come off easily, owing to the un¬ 
even application of the hot water, on 
which the use of a putty knife or other 
instrument may be necessary or the hot 
water operation repeated. A clothfe's 
basket or other receptacle should be 
used to put the paper into as fast as 
taken from the wall, for if thrown on 
the floor and trodden upon it will stick 
as badly as when on the wall and will 
be as hard to remove. d. j. h. 
We know of nothing better than the 
following: With a whitewash brush 
and cold water wet each side of room 
twice, letting it soak through; then, 
when just right, you can strip off whole 
lengths so rapidly it is fun. The first 
side will be ready before the last is wet 
at all. m. a. b. 
Utilizing Combings. 
The making of puffs and switches 
from combings is such a simple pro¬ 
cess that there is no reason why women 
should not manufacture their own hair. 
It does not require much practice to get 
the idea and to produce perfectly satis¬ 
factory results. 
The diagram shown illustrates my 
HAIR-WEAVING- FRAME. Fie. 320. 
home-made loom, which answers the 
purpose and is not difficult to make. The 
board should be 14 inches long, 
inches wide and three-quarters of an 
inch thick. The nails must be driven in 
far enough to be firm. The three nails 
at the right are two inches apart. Three 
lengths of strong linen thread are 
fastened together at one end. An inch 
from the end tie a knot and the loop 
thus made is slipped over the nail at 
the left end of loom. The other ends 
of threads are fastened separately to the 
nails at the right, as indicated in the 
diagram. The threads must not be 
drawn taut, yet must not be loose. Take 
a handful of combings and pull out 
loosely, then draw them through the 
hand with the same movement used in 
pulling candy, the strands that pull out 
are again placed in the left hand and 
the process repeated, until the hair is 
comparatively straight. Wind liaii 
around two fingers of left hand and 
comb out any remaining tangles, then 
roll the hair in a sheet of paper, leaving 
about three inches in view at one end. 
This makes it more handy to use. When 
straightening the hair one should keep 
one end as even as possible. Wind three 
or four yards of linen thread on a 
shuttle, that is used in making tatting, 
or a piece of paper will do. Tie the 
loose end of this thread to the knot 
near the nail at the left of the loom. 
Now we are ready to weave. 
Grasp the roll of hair firmly while 
you pull out a small strand of about a 
dozen hairs, insert the ends under the 
middle thread of the loom as at “A” 
in diagram, then weave back under 
thread No. 3, over middle thread, and 
under thread No. 1 as illustrated at 
“B.” Grasp the woven strand firmly 
and draw up to left end of loom as 
tightly as possible. Now weave the 
shuttle in and out just in the same way 
as you did the hair, and draw the thread 
up to the end tightly to the hair. An¬ 
other strand of hair is woven in and 
then the thread, alternating hair and 
thread until you have the desired length 
for your puff. Figure “C” represents 
shuttle ready to return under thread 
No. 3, and woven as described. Now 
slip loop off the nail at the left, clip 
the threads at the other end three inches 
from the last woven strand and tie all 
the ends of the threads firmly together, i 
Then machine stitch along the line of 
weaving, cut a strip of bonnet wire two i 
V86 
inches longer than the puff, whip this to 
the woven edge, allowing an inch of 
wire to project at either end of puff. 
These ends of wire when folded in help 
to hold the puff in shape after it is 
rolled up. 
To make a braid divide the straight¬ 
ened lengths of hair into three equal 
parts and wrap each separately in paper. 
After weaving one portion it is taken 
off the loom as described in making 
puffs and new tm cads put in place for 
the second portion; the third treated in 
the same way. Three pieces of fine silk 
cord, from four to six inches long', are 
used for the stems of the three strands 
that make the braid. By the time you 
have finished weaving one part you will 
note that the end woven first is of the 
longest hair, and that the hair grew 
shorter as the work progressed. The 
end with the shortest hair is first fast¬ 
ened to the end of one of the cords 
mentioned with strong thread, and the 
woven edge of hair is sewed spirally 
round and round the cord until the cord 
is covered to within one inch of the 
end. The long hair is thus at the top, 
and by winding twice around as a finish, 
the effect is much the same as if long 
hair alone were used. After making the 
other two strands in the same manner 
the three are fastened together and a 
loop of braid the shade of the hair is 
fastened to the end. In making a switch 
the hair is all woven on one set of 
threads. If a heavy, thick switch is de¬ 
sired the hair is sewed more closely 
around the stem and vice versa. If the 
hair is woVen as directed and drawn 
tightly over the threads and pressed 
firmly in place the hair cannot pull out, 
especially if machine stitched as a final 
precaution. mrs. d. m. e. 
When you write advertisers mention Thu 
R. N.-Y. and you’ll get a quick reply and a 
“square deal.” See guarantee editorial page. 
T 
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“Some mighty task,” I said, “I do for 
thee— 
Some deed heroic, that the world may know, 
Some sacrifice to stir the stagnant times.” 
And lo! the Lord made plain His will to 
me; 
For in my heart I heard this answer grow, 
Clear as the echo of the vesper chimes: 
“Would’st tbou best serve me? This is 
my command: 
Do thou the duty nearest to thy hand.” 
—Susie M. Best. 
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