iyi2. 
THE RURAL, I s ? R Vv 7 -YORKER 
813 
WHAT IS A “WESTERLY COURSE?” 
A. K. G., Greene, It. 1. — What is the 
scope, in degrees of the circle, of the term 
•'thence a westerly course?” In the de¬ 
scription of a piece or tract of land, the 
transfer names several bounds and courses, 
and when arriving at a permanent bound, 
the above term is used; “thence a west¬ 
erly course” to a brook (giving the name 
of the brook). I iind the said line is 
188 rods in length, all the distance through 
wood land. The land was formerly cleared 
and cultivated, and short pieces of stone 
wall was at some age built along said line 
at intervals and the vacant places filled 
out with a rail fence, t>”'s forming a con¬ 
tinuous fence. Tne pieces or wails vary 
in their courses from N. 84 degrees W. to 
N. 88 degrees W., yet the general course 
is very near west or east and west. I am 
anxious to know what would be termed a 
westerly course in this case, as the ad¬ 
joining owners contemplate litigation to 
settle a dispute on the lines, said line 
being the one in question. Can a “westerly 
course” be extended to or come within the 
scope contained between the points 22 y 2 
degrees south of a due west course and 22% 
degrees north of a due west course? That 
is, does the term “thence a westerly course” 
range over the space of 45 degrees? 
Ans.—T he term “westerly course” 
means exactly due west. In a deed or 
other paper under seal it would have 
to be interpreted that way. There is a 
certain solemnity attached to any legal 
paper under seal, and the maker is sup¬ 
posed to have used exact language, so 
that the paper is always interpreted 
literally unless overwhelming proof can 
be obtained to show that the intent of 
the maker was something different from 
the literal interpretation. If, for ex¬ 
ample, it could be proved beyond ques¬ 
tion that the fence marked the bound¬ 
ary of the two estates at the time of 
drawing up the instrument and that the 
maker of the instrument knew that the' 
fence marked the dividing line and in¬ 
tended to define the line of the fence 
by the term “thence a westerly course,” 
that interpretation would probably be 
placed upon the phrase. However, it is 
probably impossible to prove such a con¬ 
tention and therefore, in any agreement, 
the safe thing would be to survey the 
line as exactly due west. r. l. c. 
Two Problems in Drainage. 
F. P. It., Ayer, Mass .—Back of my house 
it is level for about 100 feet, then a side 
hill with a young apple orchard on It. I 
have made a garden on the level spot. In 
the Spring, when the snow melts, the water 
from the hill runs down on to the garden, 
and one time the ground was so soft that 
the gooseberry bushes heaved out so that 
the roots showed. The strawberries were 
mulched with meadow hay, and I had to 
walk on top of the rows to press the 
plants back into the ground, but I had the 
best ones ever raised, some pot-grown plants 
set in August r bearing a full quart. What 
is the best way to drain this land? It 
seems to me an open ditch. I can get a 
lair fall for tile, but do not see how tile 
will handle this surface water quick 
enough. I did think of a deep open ditch 
filled with stones part way, and just enough 
depression on top to take off the surface 
water. I have lots of stones, would be glad 
to give them away. One reason I want to 
drain is that it makes my collar damp in 
the Spring, but I have not had any standing 
water. About live acres in one of my 
fields is quite wet. It ought to be drained. 
11 is as level as a lloor. Nothing has been 
done to it for years, as it cannot be plowed 
until the last of .Tune, and the former 
owner let it lie. I looked at it to-day, and 
the grass stood five feet high. I used some 
fertilizer on it in May. It being so level 
1 do not know how tile would work. I 
have thought of open ditches. As the water 
in a deep ditch would drain the land some, 
even if it did not run off. IIow far apart, 
how deep and wide? 
Ans. —We should dig a deep, wide 
ditch across the bottom of this hill, so 
as to catch the flow of surface water. 
We take it the main trouble comes from 
this water, and that there are no hidden 
springs or large under flows. We should 
fill this large ditch with stones and con¬ 
nect with tile or smaller stone drains to 
carry the water away under ground. We 
have dried out a large field in this way 
—by cutting off the surface flow. For 
the other field we should get a surveyor 
and run his level carefully over it. This 
will show the fall if any and with this 
information you can figure out details. 
Do not try to drain a “level” field with¬ 
out having an accurate survey. 
Witch Grass and Sod Mulch. 
I have planted an orchard in land that 
has quite a lot of witch grass. I want to 
sow it down in August for sod mulch. Will 
the witch grass do any harm? p. p. b. 
We should let the witch grass alone be¬ 
yond fitting the soil properly and putting 
in the new grass seed. Anything that will 
grow will help the mulch, and the mulch 
grasses if given a fair showing will kill out 
the witch grass. 
Resetting Strawberries. 
In planting strawberries, would you think 
best to set out a new lied right away after 
these are through bearing, or in the Fall? 
I want to use the ground that I have had 
berries on two years. M. w. 
Brandonville, W. Va. 
It depends on the soil and the weather. 
If you have moisture enough you can plant 
at once after fruiting and make the plants 
live. They will, if the soil is moist, make 
a good growth and give a few berries next 
year. If the soil is as dry as with us at 
present it would be foolish to set plants in 
it. They could not live and you would bet¬ 
ter wait until just after a rain. 
Rye and Hairy Vetch. 
I am thinking of sowing rye and Hairy 
vetch in the corn before the last cultivation 
for a “cover crop,” and also to use as pas¬ 
ture after the corn is cut and again next 
Spring before planting it to potatoes. What 
quantity of each would you recommend to 
sow, or is there anything you would rec¬ 
ommend as being better suited for the pur¬ 
pose ? p. G. 
Fulton, N. Y. 
We should use 25 pounds of Hairy vetch 
seed and half a bushel of rye per acre. Seed 
ahead of the last corn cultivation. 
Traction Engines and Small Farms. 
On a farm with 70 acres of tillable land, 
nearly level and absolutely free fronii stone, 
50 acres in one meadow, would it pay to 
buy a traction engine of 25 horse power 
(new) ? Do you think it feasible to culti¬ 
vate with a machine, provided the wheels 
were narrower than the standard wheel? 
I refer to potatoes; they would pass under 
body of machine. m. h. 
Rhode Island. 
Here you get us outside of personal ex¬ 
perience. In the present state of their de¬ 
velopment we doubt the wisdom of buying 
a new traction engine for a 70-acre farm. 
You might be able to use it for grinding, 
cutting, pumping, etc., and thus make it 
pay dividends, but we think such engines 
are intended for larger operations. We do 
not understand that they have been used 
successfully for cultivatina crops. They 
have given good service in plowing anil 
fitting land, but we did not know they are 
used among crops like potatoes or corn. 
As stated, those are opinions only. If any¬ 
one can supply the experience we want it. 
Poor Stand of Oats. 
I see you advocate keeping something 
growing on the land all the time. There 
is a field near me in oats last year, and the 
grasshoppers ate the stalks so the kernels 
fell to the ground, and not more than two- 
thirds of the crop was saved. Part of this 
field was plowed in August, and we had 
rain so the oats came up very thick and 
covered the ground all Winter; the other 
part was plowed late and laid bare all 
Winter. Now the grain on the late plowed 
looks good and the early plowed that was 
covered all Winter looks yellow and is not 
nearly as tall. Why is it? I cannot ac¬ 
count for it. j. j. t. 
Forest City, Iowa. 
From the information given we cannot 
fully account for it. We have had som ■ 
such experience in plowing under rye. 
When the rye is plowed under and not 
rolled or packed down we seldom have a 
good crop. The air works in too much and 
dries out the soil, or causes too much fer¬ 
mentation. When rolled or packed down 
hard the crop is better. This is true of a 
heavy green crop like rye. It might not | 
be true of a smaller growth like the oats. 
HARVESTING A PEACH CROP. 
In a previous article I described the 
equipment which I use in gathering my 
peaches. 1 shall now describe my methods 
of picking, packing and marketing the fruit. 
These talks will appeal mostly to the small 
grower like myself, who has only a few 
hundred trees, and who sells his products 
in the home market. The commercial 
grower with his dozens or hundreds of 
acres in peach orchards will work out his 
own harvesting problems. Unfortunately, 
the peach business is fast passing into the 
hands of the large grower. This is due to 
increased difficulties attending the growing 
of peaches, so that unless a person can de¬ 
vote a good share of his time to the care of 
his trees he can hardly expect to make a 
success of it. However, I would rather see 
small growers all over the country supply¬ 
ing their home market, and I wish to en¬ 
courage the planting of such orchards 
where proper care can be given them. 1 
have never shipped a crate of peaches, and 
may never need to. Thus far the demand 
has always exceeded the supply right here 
at home. I sell them mostly by bushel 
measure, as this seems to suit my cus¬ 
tomers best. A few years ago I purchased 
seven-eighth bushel crates, but these were 
not very popular with the people here. They 
look on them as a “short” bushel at the 
price of a bushel. This, however, is not 
the case, as I always make a proper dif¬ 
ference in price between the crate and a 
measured bushel, l now pack the fruit in 
peach crates, as I can haul more on the 
same vehicle and with less bruising than 
in open bushel crates. At the point of de¬ 
livery, if desired, I measure them out into 
a galvanized half bushel measure, which I 
take along so everyone can see just what 
he is getting. Extra trouble perhaps, but 
when peaches sell for .112 the bushel, as they 
did here last year, and likely will again 
this year, it pays to go to some extra 
bother with them. I do not favor the half¬ 
bushel basket for my home delivery. As 
most people can the peaches which they 
purchase they are wanted before they are 
quite soft. This means careful wa.tching 
and picking over the same tree several 
times. Some growers make the mistake of 
letting their peaches get too ripe before 
picking. Some of my old customers order 
their fruit a year in advance. New ones 
are added as the prospects for a good crop 
increase, till long before picking time the 
crop is about all sold. 
When the fruit is ready to pick I deliver 
as far as each picking reaches, giving at¬ 
tention to location of customers. I do not 
drive around with a load further than 
necessary; also the kind of neaches the 
customer wants, as I have white and yel¬ 
low, early and late. The position of 'the 
customer’s name on my order book is con¬ 
sidered, so if anybody gets left it will be 
the last ones on the list. Some people 
offer to come to the orchard for their 
peaches, but while they are always wel¬ 
come here, I do not depend on this, as I 
would rather deliver them for several rea¬ 
sons. 1 do not know until after picking 
just how many I will have; thus if I would 
notify the purchaser it might be a day or 
two before he could come for them. This 
would mean loss to me. david plank. 
Pennsylvania. 
Lima beans and walnuts promise a fair 
crop. Potatoes and garden vegetables good 
at reasonable prices/ again. Peaches almost 
a failure. Apricots a fair but not uniform 
crop. Apples fairly good but a little later 
than usual. Hay medium crop but good 
prices. It seems that real cheap grain and 
hay is somewhere in the future, if at all 
Carpinteria, Cal. o N. C 
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