1912. 
THE RURAb NEW-YORKER 
1031 
Mitchell 1913 
AN ANNOUNCEMENT 
Y O U wan t—w e know what 
you want; we’ve put it all 
into the new 1913 Mitchell. 
You want a long stroke T head motor, a real long 
stroke ; we make ours 6 and 7 inches long ; there’s power, 
high efficiency, flexibility in a long-stroke motor. 
All moving parts are wholly enclosed ; and every¬ 
thing but the lighting generator is gear- 
driven, direct from the motor; the lighting 1 
generator is gear-driven from the transmission. 
You want a long wheel-base; it means the maximum 
of comfort in riding. You want 36-inch wheels, with 
tapered spokes for strength. You want the body hung as 
low as will allow good road clearance. 
Y ou want Mitchell seven-eighths elliptical springs ; one 
of our new features for your comfort. 
You want a left-side drive with center control levers; 
you’ve wanted that for years. It’s a wonder American 
makers didn’t come to it long ago; the common sense 
arrangement for American cars. 
You want a cut-back door at the driver’s side, so you 
can enter the front seats easily from either side. 
You want an electric self starter and complete electric 
lighting system ; operated from the driver’s seat. 
ALL FIVE MODELS EQUIPPED WITH 
Silk mohair top and covers Rain-vision wind shield Firestone demountable rims 
Jones speedometer Electric self starter Electric lighting system Bosch ignition 
Timken front axle bearings Turkish trimmings 
7-passenger Six, 60 H. P., 144-in. wheel base, 4^ x 7 in. stroke, T head motor, 
36-in. wheels.$2,500 
5-passenger Six, 50 H. P., 132-in. wheel base, 3% x 6 in. stroke, T head motor, 
36-in. wheels.$1,850 
2-passenger Six, 50 H. P., 132-in. wheel base, 3% x 6 in. stroke, T head motor, 
36-in. wheels.$1,850 
5-passenger Four, 40 H. P., 120-in. wheel base. 4^ x 7 in. stroke, T head motor, 
36-in. wheels.$1,500 
2-passenger Four, 40 H. P., 120-in. wheel base, 4J£ x 7 in. stroke, T head motor, 
36-in. wheels.$1,500 
We’ve been making vehicles for 78 years and are 
the largest builders of 6-cylinder cars in the world. 
CIDER MAKING ON THE FARM. 
Part I. 
Disposing of Culls. —With each suc¬ 
ceeding apple crop comes the question 
of what shall be done with the low- 
grade apples, which all well-informed 
apple handlers agree should not be bar¬ 
reled and put on the market with the 
best grades, and still are too good to 
allow to go to waste. In sections where 
there are evaporators much of this 
poorer fruit can be utilized as dried 
apples or apple chops, but still quanti¬ 
ties go to waste that might be made a 
source of some profit, in cider and its 
products—vinegar, boiled cider, apple 
butter and apple jelly. But there is this 
difficulty to encounter, with the owner 
of a small orchard who wishes to manu¬ 
facture his surplus apples in this way. 
It requires a considerable outlay in the 
way of equipment and also some ex¬ 
perience to put up a product which will 
comply with the pure food laws of mod¬ 
ern times as well as meet the tastes of 
a discriminating public. The question 
of competent help at a busy time of 
year when the better grades of fruit 
must be cared for at the right time is 
one which should enter into all schemes 
of this kind. 
Equipment. —Apples can be crushed 
and pressed out on the small hand 
mills, and the product possibly be fairly 
satisfactory for immediate home use; but 
to make the best cider, clear and bright, 
and get a satisfactory yield, it is neces¬ 
sary to have a mill run by power to 
grate up the apples finely, and a press 
powerful enough to give a heavy pres¬ 
sure. As a commercial proposition, even 
in a small way, the ordinary hand cider 
mill is out of the question. A modern 
power grinder is a carefully balanced 
iron cylinder with slots in it, in which 
are inserted corrugated knives capable 
of accurate adjustment, and which runs 
against a weighted concave. This cylin¬ 
der should run at a speed of 1,800 or 
2,000 revolutions so as to grate the 
apples very fine and break all the cells, 
allowing the juice a free chance to 
escape. The press may be a knuckle- 
joint, screw or hydraulic, but should be 
equipped with the cloth and rack system 
of laying up the cheese. The old method 
of using straw and the slat tub is out 
of date. For power a gasoline engine 
is usually the most practicable, except 
where it is proposed to pasteurize or 
boil cider or make jelly and apple but¬ 
ter, when steam power may be advisable. 
Material. —In utilizing the poorer 
grades of apples, economy should not 
be carried to too great an extreme. 
Other things being equal, the better the 
apples the better the product. Too 
many seem to think that anything which 
has once been in thp shape of an apple 
can be made into cider, and rotten, im¬ 
mature and dirty apples all are “cider 
apples.” The result is a vicious prod¬ 
uct not fit for use in any form. Feed 
such stuff to the stock or throw on the 
dump. Cider apples should be sorted 
and washed, if dirty. Washing can 
be done quite expeditiously in a shallow 
vat or tank, using an apple or potato 
scoop to stir and handle them with. The 
apples should be fairly matured, but not 
dead ripe, to work to the be,st advan¬ 
tage. A solid, fully matured apple 
makes the best cider and presses better, 
the juice coming from the press - clear 
and bright, while that from soft, mushy 
apples is likely to be dull and muddy 
and the pomace will fill up the press 
cloths and make necessary careful work 
in pressing. Cider made from Summer 
or early maturing apples is thin, watery 
and deficient in saccharine matter, will 
not keep, nor will it make strong vine¬ 
gar, although for vinegar-making a 
small portion may be mixed with later 
made, stronger cider. 
Making the Cider.— With the ma¬ 
chinery and equipment in shape and the 
apples on hand, some explanation of the 
process of making the cider may be 4 e ~ 
sirable. The best mills have an elevator 
to carry the apples to the grinder above 
the press, from which the pomace is 
conveyed by a chute direct to the press; 
but in the absence of these facilities the 
grinder is placed low down and the 
apples shoveled into the hopper and 
pomace again shoveled on to the press. 
With the cloth and rack system of lay¬ 
ing up a cheese a form is provided over 
which a cloth is laid, the form filled 
evenly with pomace and the cloth folded 
over so as completely to cover the 
pomace, really enclosing it in a sack, 
through which all the cider is strained’ 
as the pressing goes on. As each layer 
is completed the form is removed, a 
rack placed on it, the form replaced and 
other layers added until the cheese is 
completed. Care should be taken to 
make the layers even and the cheese 
perpendicular. Good, clean barrels or 
tanks should be provided beforehand to 
put the cider in as it runs from the 
press. Cleanliness is a necessary virtue 
in making good cider, and provision 
should be made for an abundant supply 
of water. Cloths, racks, press, grater 
and all utensils used around the mill 
should be clean to start with and all 
cleaned up after each day’s run is fin¬ 
ished. The press cloths should be either 
put to soak in fresh water or hung up 
separately, as, if left in a.pile, they will 
soon heat, sour and rot. It is compara¬ 
tively easy to keep a cider mill clean 
if proper attention is given at the right 
time, but a very difficult job when al¬ 
lowed to stand until the pomace is dried 
on and everything gets gummy and 
Sticky. L. R. BRYANT. 
MAKINC A GARDEN SOIL. 
IE. E. C., Hughesville, ra .—I wish to 
prepare an acre of very ordinary land for 
a garden, soil at present very hard and 
lumpy. Will you give the best rotation to 
follow, and full instruction as to lime, 
wood ashes, stable manure, commercial fer¬ 
tilizer and green crops to plow under; all 
of the above unlimited? 
Ans. —If I were preparing this land 
for garden purposes for my own use I 
would say to myself: If you intend to 
grow good vegetables and plenty of 
them on this acre of ground and have 
it friable and easy to work, plow the 
ground as deeply as possible this Fall, 
subsoiling it if at all practicable. Har¬ 
row and pulverize as finely as possible. 
Apply 50 bushels air-slaked lime as a 
top-dressing, and sow to rye. Early in 
the Spring, before the rye has made 
much growth, apply 30 to 40 loads of 
coarse, strawy manure, and about the 
middle of June turn it under. Sow the 
land to cow peas, using V/ 2 bushels of 
seed sown broadcast and harrow or 
cultivate them in with one-horse culti¬ 
vator. Latter part of September turn 
the cow peas under and apply one ton 
unleached hard-wood ashes and again 
sow to rye. The following Spring ap¬ 
ply 40 loads of well-rotted manure and 
plow it under as soon as dry enough. 
If these instructions are followed you 
will have a piece of land as mellow as 
an ash heap and rich enough to grow 
any kind of vegetable to perfection. 
K. 
WINTERING OVER CABBAGE PLANTS. 
S. A. W., Gale’s Ferry, Conn .—Will you 
tell me the best and easiest way to build 
a hotbed for wintering over cabbage plants, 
and also how to winter over the plants? 
Ans. —In the latitude of New York 
the seed is sown in the open' ground 
from the 15th to the 20th of September. 
Farther north it should be sown earlier, 
farther south later. It is vitally im¬ 
portant that the seed be sown at the 
proper time, for if sown too early many 
will run to seed, and if too late the 
young plants will not have sufficient 
time to get large and strong enough to 
endure the Winter. The Early Jersey 
Wakefield and Charleston Wakefield are 
the varieties used to a much larger ex¬ 
tent than any other for raising cold- 
frame plants. When the young plants 
are large enough to handle, which will 
be in about four weeks from time of 
sowing, they must be transplanted to 
the frame, so they can be protected by 
sash or shutter as cold weather of Win¬ 
ter advances. A very simple and cheap 
frame of one-inch boards is constructed 
by using boards 12 inches wide in the 
rear and seven inches in the front. This 
gives sufficient pitch to shed the water 
and to catch the sun’s rays. The frame 
should face the south or southeast. A 
tight board fence six feet or more in 
height should be constructed in the rear, 
five or six feet away from the frame, 
as a wind-break. This is of great im¬ 
portance and is almost indispensable. 
Each 3x6-foot sash will hold 450 to 500 
plants. After removing the plants to 
the frame, which should be done from 
middle to end of October, the sash need 
not be used for protection for four to 
six weeks after, unless a severe cold 
spell comes for a day or more, which 
occasionally happens. If they should 
have to be temporarily protected, be 
prompt to remove the sash again so as 
to sufficiently harden the plants for 
Winter 'weather. Care must be given 
to ventilation at all times, and an abun¬ 
dance of fresh air supplied on all clear 
days when the temperature does not go 
below 15 degrees in the shade. The 
sash alone will be sufficient protection 
where the temperature does not go be¬ 
low five degrees below zero. Where it 
goes much below that, mats or shutters 
should be used in connection with the 
sash. The plants should be moved to 
the open ground in March or April as 
soon as ground is dry enough to be 
worked. k. 
Dealers everywhere. 
Mitchell-Lewis 
RACINE, 
November delivery 
Motor Company 
WISCONSIN 
Mitchell Motor Co. of New York 
61st ST. AND BROADWAY - - - New York City 
