1912 . 
THIS RUI^Ab NEW-YORKER 
1069 
PROF. E. R. LAKE, 
Secretary of the Am. Pomological Society. 
The death of Prof. John Craig of 
Cornell made a vacancy in the office of 
secretary of the American Pomological 
Society. This is a very important posi¬ 
tion, for the secretary of this great so¬ 
ciety is in constant demand, and must 
be thoroughly posted regarding fruit 
matters. It was the duty of the presi- 
E. R. LAKE, 
dent, L. A. Goodman, to appoint a new 
secretary, and his report is given be¬ 
low : 
After several weeks of correspondence 
with all of the officers, the executive com¬ 
mittee, Dean L. H. Bailey of Cornell, and 
Hon. G. B. Brackett, U. S. Pomologist, I 
have appointed Prof. E. R. Lake, 3333 
Twentieth Street, N. \\\, Washington, D. C., 
as secretary to fill out the unexpired term 
of the' lamented Prof. Craig, former 
secretary. Professor Lake is a man of 
much experience as secretary of horticul¬ 
tural societies, a valued assistant to the 
U. S. Pomologist, and an indefatigable 
worker, a faithful student and one who 
never shirks his duty. I speak for him 
aud the society your earnest cooperation 
and assistance in all we. shall ask you to 
do; pledging with us that the American 
Pomological Society shall continue to grow 
greater as it grows older, and that we 
will do our best in happy accord to make 
this true. Papers, books, records and the 
business of the society will be in his hands 
from and after this date. 
L. A. GOODMAN, 
President. 
A likeness of Prof. Lake is shown 
above. We have known him person¬ 
ally for many years. He is an excellent 
man for the place. 
CONCRETE HOTBEDS. 
We referred recently to the concrete 
hotbeds now built by florists and vege¬ 
table growers. The following directions 
are given for a four-sash bed, which of 
course could be extended to any length 
desired. A standard hotbed sash is 
three by six feet. Lay out the bed six 
feet eight inches wide by 12 feet 10 
inches long. The concrete walls are six 
inches thick. Dig the foundation 
trenches two feet six inches deep within 
the lines given above. Make forms of 
one-inch lumber to carry the south 
(front) wall six inches and the north 
(back) wall 14 inches above ground. 
Forms are not required below ground 
level. The tops of the end walls slope 
to the others. Before tilling the forms 
with concrete test the dimensions of 
the bed by means of the sash. See that 
the sash lap the forms two inches on 
all sides. 
Mix the concrete mushy wet in the 
proportion of one bag of cement to 2)4 
cubic feet of sand to five cubic feet of 
crushed rock, or one bag of cement to 
five cubic feet of bank-run gravel. Fill 
the forms without stopping for any¬ 
thing. Tie the walls together at the 
corners by laying in them old iron rods 
bent Jo right angles. While placing the 
concrete set £<-inch bolts about two feet 
apart to bold the wooden top-framing 
of the bed to the concrete; or make 
grooves in the top of the concrete for 
counter-sinking the sash to the level of 
the walls with an allowance of one- 
quarter inch for clearance. This can be 
done by temporarily imbedding in the 
concrete wooden strips of the necessary 
dimensions. During this operation, by 
means of blocks nailed to the strips, 
make provision for the center bars de¬ 
scribed below. Remove the strips as 
soon as the concrete stiffens. Take 
down the forms after five days. The 
extra 2§4 inches in length of the bed is 
allowance for the three center bars be¬ 
tween the sash. These sash supports 
are of dressed one-inch stuff, shaped 
like a capital “T” turned upside down. 
The length of the stem of the “T” is 
equal to the thickness of the sash and 
the top is three inches wide. Sufficient 
materials for the concrete will be sup¬ 
plied by 14 bags of cement, 1)4 cubic 
yards of sand and 2)4 cubic yards of 
crushed rock; or 14 bags of cement and 
2)4 j r ards of pit gravel at a cost of $10. 
Lettuce in Virginia. 
I have one-fourth acre of lettuce to 
plant for Fall and Winter use. We have 
had the Summer drought broken and have 
the ground ready. I wish information as 
to plan of sowing or planting the seed, 
and when, tf planted now, it would be 
ready to sell. What kind should I sow? 
Campostella Heights, Va. m. r. 
Lettuce for the Fall crop should have 
been sown early in August. Seed sown at 
that time and later transplanted eight 
inches apart in 12-inch rows will head in 
late October and November. Seed sown 
now will make good plants to set in cold 
frames or to set outside on side of ridges 
to winter over for Spring heading. Set in 
frames under glass the plants should head 
in January and February. Set outside and 
wintered safely they will head in April. 
I use double-glazed sashes on cold frames. 
These, having a dead-air space between the 
layers of glass, keep out all frost in 
Winter even down to zero. This Summer 
has been so dry that the plants from seed 
sown early in August will hardly head out¬ 
side before cold weather checks them. The 
only way to be certain of a Fall crop is 
to have the Skinner overhead irrigation, 
which I hope to install in my garden an¬ 
other season. If you can buy good plants 
of the Big Boston lettuce in Norfolk, and 
you have your land well stuffed with rotten 
manure, you may possibly head the lettuce 
before Christmas if the Fall is a late one. 
To grow good lettuce you must be lavish 
with manure and fertilizer, too. A heavy 
application of rotten manure well mixed 
in the soil should be supplemented with a 
good application of a fertilizer strong in 
phosphoric acid and potash applied after 
the plants are starting to grow after their 
transplanting and worked into the soil be¬ 
tween the rows. In short, it takes both 
manure and fertilizer to make the best let¬ 
tuce. Seed sown now would hardly make 
plants to head outside this Fall, 'but in 
your climate they will generally winter 
well outside if set on the north side of 
radges limning east and west. Either 
cabbage plants or lettuce will winter bet¬ 
ter on the north side of the ridges than 
on the south side, as very generally 
planted. The plants are kept dormant on 
the north side and are not exposed to the 
morning sun when frozen, while on the 
south side they are apt to get excited into 
growth in warm spells and then a return 
of cold will often kill them or the morn¬ 
ing sun striking them when frozen will 
damage them seriously. If you want the 
lettuce for Fall use, you would better buy 
the plants. Tait’s Giant White lettuce is 
a favorite sort with the Norfolk garden¬ 
ers for wintering over outside. Big Bos¬ 
ton is commonly used in the frames and 
for Fall heading. w. f. masses. 
White Grubs.— I was somewhat inter¬ 
ested in C. D. S.'s 1 white grub trouble. 
If the grubs are 1% inch long they have 
got their growth, and have done all the 
damage they will in their life history. I 
find the best way to fight white grubs is 
a three-year rotation of some cultivated 
crop, grain and clover. The plowing and 
cultivating two years out of three keeps 
the eggs from hatching, and then there 
are no grubs to do damage. The areas in¬ 
vested by white grubs are too large to be 
remedied by the pig. If one wished to 
set strawberries on an acre or less, and 
had the pigs, lie could get the white grubs 
out by turning in the pigs the season be¬ 
fore he wished to set the strawberries. 
Glenfield, N. Y. f. j. b. 
1913 
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Models “44” and “34” are Equipped with the North 
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Motor 4 Cylinder, 4 Y% inch bore, 
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Positive and unfailing in action. ) 
Five Passenger 
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Motor 4 Cylinder, 4 inch bore, 
514 inch stroke. 114 inch wheel 
base,34x4 inch tires,demountable 
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Roadster. Motor 
4 Cylinder, 4 inch bore, 5^6 inch 
stroke. 114 inch wheel base. 
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Write for Catalog • 
li 
