1912. 
FRUIT AND LEAF BUDS. 
E. S. Black, of New Jersey, has given us much valuable 
information regarding the nursery and growing of young 
trees. I would feel indebted to him if he would tell us 
how to tell the blossom buds from the fruit buds, espe¬ 
cially peaches, in cutting scions from bearing trees. Also 
his method of treating new peach pits in order to get the 
greatest number of them to crack the first yeax - , and how 
to hold those over for another year that fail to crack. 
w. F. K. 
W. F. K. is not alone in his lack of knowledge 
about the leaf and fruit buds of the apple and peach 
tree. Many supposedly expert budders cannot dis¬ 
tinguish the fruit buds from the leaf buds of the 
apple, and this is a very important thing to know 
when taking buds from orchard or fruiting trees. 
The apple buds and grafts should only be used from 
the current year’s growth, as the buds on this growth 
will all make leaf buds another year, with the ex¬ 
ception of the terminal bud, which as a rufe will 
make a blossom bud the next year if left on the tree. 
Nature has so decreed that the two 
great acts in vegetable life are those of 
wood growth by extension, and the de¬ 
velopment of this growth into flowers 
and fruits. Thus the leaf buds are on 
the newer growth or terminal branches, 
and they are essential to the wood 
growth of the tree. When used as buds 
or grafts for propagating the variety, 
and inserted into a stock, they develop 
into a tree, instead of flower and fruit 
as they would if left on the orchard tree 
for a second year’s growth. 
The branches shown will fully illus¬ 
trate the difference between leaf and 
fruit buds. No. 1 has made a perfect 
growth for both wood and fruit. When 
the leaves are removed the current 
year’s growth will show perfect leaf 
buds—those near the base are blind buds 
and should not be used, neither should 
the very top buds, as they are not fully 
developed. Below the current year’s 
growth is two-year growth, on which 
are the fruit spurs or buds; these have 
from one to two leaves, and are so 
formed as to make from one to a clus¬ 
ter of blossoms next year. No. 2 is of 
the same character of growth, except 
the fruit spurs arc more prominent and 
have had a rosette of leaves on each 
spur. No one would think of using the 
fruiting wood of either No. 1 or No. 2 
for propagating wood. No. 3 is alto¬ 
gether different. Last year this limb 
made a strong growth, and it should 
have developed as strong fruiting spurs 
as No. 1 and No. 2 has done this year, 
but for lack of sunlight or from being 
crowded by other stronger or larger 
branches it only started its terminal bud, 
which has made wood growth, and the 
other buds have remained absolutely 
dormant, making no effort to produce 
leaves or fruit spurs. The bark of this 
two-year growth is smooth and has 
every appearance of a lirst-year growth, 
which causes many budders to use it for 
good wood of the current year’s growth. 
More often it is used for grafting, as 
there are many of these limbs on some 
trees that make no further growth from 
the terminal bud, as the one shown has 
done. The buds on this part of the 
limb are not active, strong parts of the 
tree, but have been pushed back by 
stronger and more favored parts, hence 
should not be used for propagating pur¬ 
poses. They may make a weak effort 
to grow when so used, but will never 
make a good strong tree, as may be readily understood. 
The peach is the reverse of the apple, as the fruit¬ 
ing buds are formed on the current year’s growth, 
and when the tree has about finished the season’s 
growth. Most of the lower buds on the limb are 
formed into triplets; the two outside buds are large 
and prominent, and between them—almost unnoticed 
by the inexperienced—is a smaller bud, which is a 
leaf bud. When these triplet buds are used for prop¬ 
agating, the leaf bud is sure to prove the stronger 
when growth starts in the Spring, and push itself 
into growth to form a future tree. Many of the buds 
on some limbs will have one fruit bud and one leaf 
bud together, the leaf bud always being the smaller. 
The top part of the limb, as a rule, will have one bud 
under one leaf, and in most cases this is a fruit bud 
and should not be used to propagate from. Nos. 4-5 
are peach limbs. 
THE: RURAL NEW-YORKER 
If peach pits are this year’s production, bury them 
at once. Early September would be better. Level off 
the ground so as to give an even, hard floor space in 
some well-drained land, preferably a hillside with a 
southern exposure and protected from the cold winds, 
moisture and warmth being the two important parts 
that cause the pit to sprout. The pits can be evenly 
spread to a depth of three inches in the bed and then 
covered with coarse sand about four inches deep— 
the bed to be rounded so that water will easily pass 
off without standing water-soaking the seed, which 
would surely destroy the germ. 
When the pits begin to sprout and before the top 
or tree begins to form, shovel off the sand from the 
top of the bed, spread out the pits with a shovel, 
pick out the sprouted kernels and plant without al¬ 
lowing them to dry in the sun or wind. What pits 
have not sprouted can be put back into a bed again 
and lightly covered with sand. The sprouting will 
continue for some time, and the bed may be gone 
over several times before too late for the season’s 
planting. When this method is used the only way to 
keep over the unsprouted pits is to put them back in 
the bed, cover again, and leave them until another 
Spring. They will sprout more or less during the fol¬ 
lowing Summer, and this, of course, is a loss. I 
would prefer planting thickly in nursery rows as 
early in the Fall as possible, covering them by ridg¬ 
ing. In the Spring harrow off the ridges, and keep 
the ground loose with a smoothing harrow until the 
pits begin to show sprouts through the ground, then 
cultivate thoroughly. Old, dry pits should be soaked 
in water for 48 hours or more and bedded or planted 
in early July or August. • e. s. black. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 503, just issued by the IT. S. 
Department of Agriculture, is “Comb Honey,'” by George 
S. Demuth. Tt is of interest to all bee-keepers, but 
especially to those who wish to produce a high grade of 
honey in the "original package.” 
1081 
A SEASON’S EXPERIENCE WITH ALFALFA. 
After a Winter hard on Alfalfa we had a late 
Spring that put all other work behind. On this farm 
when Alfalfa shows up a vacant spot in its season 
about the time of first cutting, crab grass puts in an 
appearance, and it holds its own if not molested till 
the frost of Fall kills it. If the Alfalfa is a thin 
stand before the season is out it is overshadowed by 
the crab grass, so much so often that the farmer 
questions whether to call the hay Alfalfa or crab 
grass. One field that has under it about 500 rods of 
tile for seven acres was badly frozen and killed with 
the ice coating last Winter. The crab grass showed 
up at first cutting about June 5. On account of press 
of other work I was unable to cultivate the field with 
the spring-tooth harrow with teeth made for this 
purpose, which gave the crab grass the advantage. 
During the whole season the Alfalfa kept getting 
thinner, doubtless as a result of the freezing of the 
past Winter. Another field was hurt in the low 
places directly over the tile drains. While 
crab grass has always been abundant in 
this field when the condition of the 
crops at all favored it, we were this 
year able to keep it well under control 
by the use of the harrow. 
This cultivation is always given as 
soon after mowing as possible. After 
the third cutting most of this field was 
given two harrowings, but at the time 
could not rush the work to a finish. 
The Alfalfa came on with a new growth 
promptly and got six to ten inches high 
before the harrowing was finished. The 
harrow the last time flattened down the 
Alfalfa, but the next day it had straight¬ 
ened up. 
A neighbor sowed a field to Alfalfa 
last year after taking off the land a 
crop of peas for the canning factory. 
The land is clay but rolling, so much so 
that the field escaped a serious ice coat¬ 
ing last Winter. After the first crop of 
Alfalfa was cut the field was given two 
harrowings and an application of 200 to 
250 pounds of acid phosphate. From 
this field three very fine crops of Al¬ 
falfa have been harvested this season, 
and doubtless the owner is expecting the 
fourth crop. This has been done with¬ 
out inoculation or liming. The crops of 
two seasons will be worth more than 
the price of the land. Another young 
farmer after the same plan, except the 
phosphate application, has secured three 
crops of clean Alfalfa. Another lost 
out after the first cutting because the 
Alfalfa turned yellow. The practice of 
Fall sowing does not allow the Alfalfa 
to get strong enough to stand spring- 
tooth harrow work before the growth 
starts in the Spring. But if cultivation 
can be given after it has attained a 
growth of six to 10 inches in height 
much will probably be gained, and the 
grasses and weeds given a serious set¬ 
back. The manner in which some farm¬ 
ers set about growing Alfalfa leads the 
writer to believe that they do not at¬ 
tach much importance to the crop; that 
it can take care of itself and will not 
require that other crops will need to be 
curtailed so that it can be properly 
cared for. This is a mistake, for if 
well cared for some other crop must be 
curtailed or more working force added 
to the farm. 
Alfalfa under congenial surroundings 
or conditions is a business crop and no 
loafer; nor does it encourage loafing 
and indifference to its condition by the farmer, but 
must have attention at the proper time. In this 
section of the country it has been the custom to cut 
four times if the growth is sufficient. There can be 
no doubt if this fourth cutting is left on the land 
that it is a great protection to the Alfalfa. Still but 
few men will leave a crop worth $10 an acre for pro¬ 
tection. When properly tile-drained, excepting 
Winters like the last, the Alfalfa comes through all 
right and start off more promptly than it does when 
the fourth cutting is not taken. 
If tiling will give to the farmer a fourth cutting 
nine out of ten years he had better put down the tile 
than to let the possible fourth cutting stand. There 
is no better index as to the need of tile than grow¬ 
ing Alfalfa. When a man concludes that he can grow 
the Alfalfa so strong that it will withstand a hard 
Winter without lifting he deceives himself. Unless 
thoroughly drained there is no possibility of this. 
ROSS Co., Ohio. JOHN M. JAMISON. 
