1912. 
i»8«r 
THE RURAE NEW-YORKER 
FARM ENGINEERING. 
Running Separator With Kerosene Engine. 
Will you advise as to the best plan of 
running a cream separator by the use of a 
kerosene engine? Will it be necessary to 
install a number of shafts and pulleys be¬ 
tween engine and the separator if a gov¬ 
ernor pulley is used? 1 am told that a 
gasolene engine will ruin a cream separator 
in a short time. Is it true? Would a 
kerosene engine be as satisfactory as a 
gasoline engine? c. a. s. 
New York. 
It makes no difference whatever whether 
a kerosene or gasoline engine is used. 
Neither will ruin a cream separator if 
properly installed. There should be a 
counter-shaft to which the engine is belted 
and on the counter-shaft a tight and a 
loose pulley for the belt to the separator. 
The belt to the separator should not be 
too tight. Start up the engine with the 
separator belt on the loose pulley. Then, 
when you want to start the separator, just 
shift the belt gradually to the tight pulley. 
To stop the separator, you merely shift the 
belt to the loose pulley again. The speed 
of the separator should be only about 50 
or 60 turns a minute. r. p. c. 
Icehouse for the South. 
I am considering the design of an ice¬ 
house to be built on the coastal plain near 
Houston, Texas. On account of the high 
atmospheric temperature, the great heat 
of the sun and the almost constant winds, 
it has seemed to me best to build it under¬ 
ground rather than above ground, as is 
commonly done; it being understood that 
the principal need for ice and cold storage 
is in Summer when the temperature of the 
air is almost constantly higher than that 
of the earth. To carry off the water of 
melting, it is my plan to dig a sump or 
well about 20 feet deep to permanent 
water, which should carry off the waste 
without pumping. Please advise me if this 
is the best plan, viz., better than the auove 
ground model. What is the cheapest in¬ 
sulator, dollar for dollar; how should it 
be disposed, and what is the limit of eco¬ 
nomic thickness? It has seemed to me 
that alternate thin layers of sawdust and 
tar paper or sheathing paper, the latter 
tacked on to wooden frames, to the extent 
of one or two feet in thickness, would 
probably be best and would pay as an in¬ 
vestment in the saving of ice. This ice¬ 
house is intended mainly for cold storage 
of fruits and vegetables as well as for ice 
supply, in a rural locality. g. w. c. 
Wisconsin. 
The plan to put the icehouse below 
ground seems to be best, if it is properly 
built and you can provide good drainage 
and ventilation. The best insulator is dry, 
dead air. It is the cheapest, also. The use 
of sawdust, sand, hay, etc., is to keep the 
air “dead” or quiet. They prevents drafts 
and circulation. The materials themselves 
are conducting and must never be packed 
solidly. Your insulating scheme is ex¬ 
pensive. Two eight-inch dead-air spaces, 
with both the inside and outside walls air 
tight and the center partition made of 
tarred paper, as you suggest, would be 
better. The inside walls may be lined 
with tarred paper to make them airtight. 
The outside wall or underground work 
should be water-tight, as the main diffi¬ 
culty will be due to the penetrating damp¬ 
ness. Concrete or stone construction would 
be best. I would not advise the use of 
any absorbent material, as sawdust, as it 
will always be wet and conducting, and it 
will also absorb odors. r. p. c. 
Defective Icehouse. 
I have an icehouse 12 feet square, 14 
feet in height, one-half underground, walls 
of stone two feet thick; bottom covered 
with rails filled in with sawdust. The soil 
is heavy clay, fully well drained. The ice 
is almost always gone by the middle of 
August. Would it pay me to line this 
house with boards and building paper, 
leaving a six-inch dead air space? Can I 
make any improvement on the floor? 
New Jersey. . r. m. d. 
It would certainly be a great improve¬ 
ment to provide double walls with about 
an eight-inch dead air space on all sides 
on the icehouse. It will be of no value 
whatever unless the air is “dead” or quiet. 
There must be no circulation of air in the 
space. The floor should be well drained. 
Keep the ice away from the walls about 
four inches, and fill that space with saw¬ 
dust tamped down a little, but not really 
solid. Keep the top of the ice covered 
with a foot of sawdust and keep the space 
above that well ventilated. r. p. c. 
Pumping from Lower Level. 
I have a spring 200 feet from the 
house and 35 feet below. What kind of a 
pump do I need to pump the water to the 
house by hand or by power? j. w. 
New York. 
You can’t put the pump in the house, 
unless you sink the cylinder of the pump 
down low enough so that it will be only 
about 15 feet above the spring. This may 
be done readily, of course, and such a 
suction hand pump with extended cylinder 
may be bought for $8 or $10. A force 
pump to be placed at the spring to force 
the water up to the house by hand may 
be purchased for about $5. A power force 
pump having a one-inch discharge and a 
1 %-inch suction pipe will deliver about 12 
gallons per minute and will cost about $8. 
Either of the hand pumps will deliver five 
or six gallons per minute. r. p. c. 
Painting With Force Pump. 
We have two very large barns that we 
wish to paint, but the exposed surface is 
quite rough and porous from age. It seems 
to me that it would be a tough job to 
tackle them in the ordinary way and I 
have been wondering whether there is not 
some way of mixing a paint that can be 
put on through a force pump in the form 
of a spray. Would this be practical? 
New Y'ork. j. E- Y 
Any paint can be applied in the way 
you state. In fact, this is the common 
way of doing rough work, such as white¬ 
washing, etc. The paint must be quite 
thin in order to work well, and any form 
of a sprayer may be used. It is rather a 
dirty job, as the paint is very finely di¬ 
vided, and gets all over the clothes, but 
it saves lots of time. u p c 
OUTDOOR STORAGE CELLARS. 
Mr. N. E. Brown of Michigan sends us 
the following notes and picture from the 
National Builder: 
A suitable size for outdoor farm cellars 
is 10 by 14 feet inside, with self-sup¬ 
porting arched roof five feet above floor at 
sides and seven feet eight inches in center. 
The side walls are eight inches thick. Dig 
the hole 11 feet four inches by 15 feet 
four, to the depth desired, usunllv five feet. 
At one end cut the earth to n width of 
four feet four inches and slope upward for 
seven concrete steps with rise of eight 
inches and tread of 10 inches, and for a 
thickness of four inches of concrete back 
of the stops proper. Arrange for 18-inch 
landing at bottom of stairs. 
Make side wall forms of inch siding on 
two by four uprights, spaced two feet. As 
concrete floor will be four inches thick, 
set up the forms on four-inch concrete 
bricks. To curve the end wall forms lay 
them out with a six-foot string in the 
same way as described later for arch rings. 
At entrance, to provide a doorway, set be¬ 
tween the forms a frame of two by eight- 
inch stuff, three by seven feet in the clear. 
Mix the concrete one part cement to 
CROSS-SECTION SECTION OF OUTSIDE 
CELLAR. Fig. 539. 
four parts bank run gravel. Lay the four- 
inch floor the same as a sidewalk, but 
without joints. Six inches from the top 
of side walls and one inch from outside 
put two %-inch steel rods the full length 
of cellar, and in the concrete above door 
frame lay three four-foot lengths of %-inch 
rods. Roughen the top of walls to make 
a good bond with roof. 
When side walls are a week old begin 
the roof. On a floor or bit of smooth 
ground mark a half circle with radius of 
five feet 11 inches. Across this lay a 
board 10 feet long, so that its ends will 
just touch the mark. The part of circle 
above the board is the correct shape and 
size for the arched roof. Cut boards to 
match this arch ring and space the rings 
two feet, fastening securely to side wall 
forms. Cover tightly and reinforce with 
%-inch rods 12 inches the long way and 
six inches crossing the cellar, wiring the 
rods together wheer they cross. Cover 
with five inches of concrete. Give the 
roof a smooth finish. In about three weeks 
the forms may be removed. Any form of 
ventilation desired may be provided. The 
cut shows a cross section of such a cellar. 
The Stingless Bee a Fake. 
The crossing of Cyprian and Italian 
bees, as reported in “Brevities” recently, 
the cross resulting in a stingless bee, is 
a fake pure and simple. This cross has 
been much in the United States many 
years ago, and condemned for good rea¬ 
sons. IV hy does not some expert try cross¬ 
ing a Pekin and Indian Runner duck, and 
thus produce a cross'without a quack? A. 
I. Root, in “Gleanings” for October 15, 
says: “Cyprians, or a cross of such, 
seemed quite slow about getting on the 
warpath, but when once roused up, they 
stung worse than any other bees we had.” 
New York. j. crane. 
Want to Know. 
I have a nice deer skin which I would 
like to tan. Can some reader tell me how 
to tan it so the hair will not come out? 
Vermont. M . c . w. 
Farm Gate Wanted.— Do you know of 
any farm gate, not expensive to install, and 
easily operated from a wagon seat? There 
niay be among the thousands who read 
Ihe R. N.-Y. many who use such gates. I 
have in mind one which may be operated 
by electricity, where that power is avail¬ 
able. If you can throw any light on the 
matter you wiil greatly oblige. g. s. p 
Maine. 
Leather Dressings.— I know that fak¬ 
ers blacken common lubricating oil and 
sell it a high price for harness oil, also 
that there is a formula consisting of 
neat’s-foot oil, kerosene and ether that 
gives good results. I find that crude oil 
softens, leather nicely. Does anyone know 
its ultimate effect? What about a mix¬ 
ture of crude and neat’s-foot oils? Judg¬ 
ing from past observation some of The 
R- N.-Y. family will be able to answer 
these questions. E . l. s. 
Quicksand Overflow. —I am living close 
to the Erie Canal. Last Summer there was 
quite a large break ; it spoiled all my gar- 
den with quicksand. It covered my garden 
to a depth of from three to six inches.’ 
Have you had an experience as to whether 
I could grow anything on that sand, or do 
you think that within a short time it would 
work through the bottom soil, which is a 
rich dark soil? Would you advise me to 
have it drawn from the garden? It would 
take about 20 loads to clear it off 
Orleans Co., N. Y. F . 'c. h. 
R. N.-Y.—Will those who have had ex- 
penence in mixing such sand with heavier 
soil tell us about it? 
When that discussion was on regarding 
pea. coal, I ought to have given my ex- 
perience. In the past about $200 worth 
®* ha rd coal was used yearly. In July, 
1911, I began to burn the screenings from 
coal yard, $1.25 per ton in our bin, screen 
over one-eighth inch mesh, and have about 
60 per cent to burn up to sizes that have 
passed five-eighths inch mesh at the yards: 
will figure about $80 per year now for fuel 
Can you suggest a section that makes 
dairy butter? T M 
Suffield, Conn. 
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THE E. BIGL0W CO., New London, 0. 
BUY AN ICE PLOW 
and save the ice crop. Cnt your ice 
quick and cheap with my double- 
row Ice Plow. It equals 20 
men with saws. Pays for 
itself in 1 day. Also Tools. 
Ask for catalog and prices. 
WH. H. PIUT, Verbank, H. Y 
FENCE 
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