FLORIDA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY 
151 
spraying, I take it slow and send the 
men back repeatedly to see. for them¬ 
selves whether or not they are actually 
getting the under sides of all leaves. As 
to whether we use rods or guns depends 
upon the trees and what we are spraying 
for. We always use guns on seedlings 
and always for lime-sulphur sprayings on 
all trees but for the oil sprayings on bud¬ 
ded trees I believe rods with angle noz¬ 
zles give us more thorough results. On 
rust sprayings we are not quite so care¬ 
ful when covering the insides of the 
trees, but for our spring I to 40 lime- 
sulphur application on grapefruit we try 
to be as thorough inside as out, for only 
in this way can we get the fruit covered 
when the new growth hides and shields 
so much of the new fruit from outside 
work. As to the amount of liquid used 
I believe we cover a trifle more ground 
with guns when trying to do equally 
thorough work. 
Now as to when to spray, we have the 
spray schedule admirably worked out for 
us by the several men and agencies that 
are helping us growers in the State. If 
completely followed, I have no doubt it 
will accomplish its purpose, that of giv¬ 
ing us high-grade fruit, and more of it, 
from clean trees. But, for my part, while 
I follow the schedule in a general way, 
I try to exercise some, judgment in its ap¬ 
plication to my own grove just as I sup¬ 
pose the rest of you do. For instance, I 
very seldom make any spraying in the 
bloom but follow it immediately with a 
lime-sulphur application, on both oranges 
and grapefruit. On grapefruit I use 
lime-sulphur solution 1 to 40 irrespective 
of weather conditions or whether I have 
noted any scab on young growth. I do 
this because this preceding by only two 
or three weeks a spraying that would be 
necessary for red spider or rust mites 
or both, makes that unnecessary and the 
extra two gallons of lime-sulphur per 
tank is used as insurance against scab, 
should scab weather develop. (1.) 
(1) Sometimes, by making only this one 
spraying, I do get some scab showing up on the 
young fruit, but it does not seem to develop and 
the fruit outgrows it. Of course, if serious scab 
infection should begin to show upon new growth, 
I should probably get out and spray in the bloom. 
The application of lime-sulphur solu¬ 
tion on oranges at this time is 1 to 66. 
As to the reasons for making this appli¬ 
cation at this time instead of waiting 
until there are spiders or mites to jus¬ 
tify it, can only say I would rather do it 
when convenient than to drop everything 
else as a matter of necessity; that I would 
prefer to have no indication of spider at 
all; and as I believe lime-sulphur solution 
aids early maturity of fruit, I like to be¬ 
gin as early as possible. I also think it 
acts as a tree tonic and hence if applied 
at this time may cause a bit more fruit to 
stick. This one lime-sulphur spraying, 
thoroughly done, holds down rust gener¬ 
ally until the first part of July and in 
only one season that I can remember has 
any further spraying for rust mites been 
necessary. I have tried to reconcile the 
statements I have heard at times that for 
effective rust mite control a spraying* is 
necessary every six weeks with my own 
experience that two sprayings are ample, 
and the only answer I have been able to 
reach is that perhaps we spray more 
