17 
and number of bulblets if carefully done. The best con¬ 
tainer we have found for this purpose, we make from 
what is known to the building trade as “metal lath.” 
This makes a container so stiff that it can be handled 
easily and the mesh is sufficiently small that no mole 
can get through it. The container may be made three 
or four feet long and about five inches wide and six 
inches deep. The sides should be brought almost to¬ 
gether at the top so that moles cannot get into it. It 
may be lined with moss or newspaper and tilled with 
fine dirt. The containers may be placed side by side 
indoors and will not take up much space. The bulbs 
may be peeled and placed firmly on top of the dirt and 
exposed to the sunlight. They should not be forced 
too rapidly. We want a strong sturdy growth. Then 
when it comes time to plant them outdoors, small 
trenches can be made, the containers placed in them in 
rows, and the bulbs covered to a depth of an inch or two 
with sand. Thus no injury is done to the root system 
in the transplanting. They should be kept well wa¬ 
tered and growing till just before freezing weather in 
the fall. Then they may be lifted, container and all, 
and cured very slowly in the drying shed. This gives 
a very long growing season and permits the bulblets to 
mature perfectly. Bulblets which spiout eailiest may 
be handled in the same manner. The Harris paper 
boxes are also excellent for starting early bulblets in¬ 
doors. 
In the not distant future I hope to try out what 
might be called a portable greenhouse. It could be cov¬ 
ered with 4x6-foot sash, which could be removed after 
danger of freezing is past in the spring and placed on 
again late in the fall. I believe that the increased bulb- 
