84 
for peonies resent too much moisture. In planting my 
peony roots (which are always strong divisions) I place 
the eyes exactly even with the surface of the bed and 
cover them with two inches of the best soil available. 
The root will settle somewhat, as will also the entire 
bed, but when freezing weather arrives I like to feel 
that the eyes are covered to such a depth (not more 
than two inches deep), that the winds of February 
and March cannot uncover them. The beginner may 
cover his few plants with straw about December 15th, 
after the ground has frozen solid, and this covering will 
keep the bed from thawing out until late in the season. 
In my latitude, this covering should be removed about 
the last week in March. The beginner will, of course, 
understand that these planting directions are given for 
my own latitude and conditions. Should his conditions 
be different, he would be wise to consult an experienced 
peony grower in his own vicinity as to the best method 
of planting. My experience has taught me that the 
method I have outlined is the best for my section of 
Ohio. 
Each plant will thrust its head through the ground 
in early April, and if more than two sprouts should 
appear, the owner of the garden may break off and de¬ 
stroy the excess above that number, which process will 
give increased strength to the two remaining. Within 
two or three weeks he will find a tiny bud on the tip of 
each sprout, and a few days later he will find three to 
five lateral buds lower down on the stem. If he will 
carefully pinch off these lateral or side buds the full 
strength of the plant will go to the main buds and they 
will develop into fair blooms the first year, and he can 
have a faint idea of the kind of flowers he will see on 
