107 
ments the outer circle of the clump. Shorten the roots 
cind lemove entirely any that are very old, to encourage 
new growths, and reset into permanent places. 
Growing hybrid Delphiniums from seeds has been 
in the past largely a matter of amusement. But the 
day is here when we should be able to get adequate re¬ 
turns for our effort. The sun is big enough to rise 
upon the evil and the good and the rain comes down 
upon all alike, but our gardens are not usually large 
enough, and our time is all too short, to waste on rows 
of disappointments. After securing good seeds, early 
spring seems the most normal time for bringing infant 
Delphiniums into the world, as they go right along’ from 
one stage to another without any stop-over. It is true 
that a little higher percentage of germination will occur 
in autumn, soon after the seeds are harvested, but there 
will usually be enough fatalities to make up. Fall-sown 
seeds will bloom about one month ahead of those put 
in in early spring. A safe plan is to sow in flats of 
good mellow garden soil with enough sand to insure 
perfect drainage. Level the soil and press down, then 
water thoroughly. After this sow the seeds, preferably 
in rows, and cover not more than one-eighth inch. A 
flat 12x20 will receive one thousand seeds nicely. Cover 
with thin paper or glass, keep shaded and always moist, 
until plants begin to appear, then bring to the light. 
When the third and fourth leaves come will be the sig¬ 
nal to transplant into other boxes containing a richer 
soil (bone meal a good thing) and set about an inch 
apart. When these flats are getting filled with leafage 
the plants can go into permanent quarters. Fall seed¬ 
lings can be transferred directly into the cold-frame 
where they are to winter. Don’t keep this frame close 
but allow plentj^ of air at all times. 
