2913; 
Ruralisms 
Japan Walnuts—Juglans Sieboldiana. 
1 have read with interest what others 
have written in relation to the nuts 
changing to t*he butternut type on young* 
seedlings. I have grown the Juglans 
Sieboldiana for the last 20 years; have 
found the trees very thrifty as a rule 
and easy to transplant. Yet in growing 
seedlings from my original trees I get 
quite a proportion of the butternut 
type. Some of these seedlings are much 
better than either. J. Sieboldiana, or 
butternut, as the nuts run larger than 
their parents, and have not so strong 
and oily a taste as the average butter¬ 
nut. Some have come into bearing very 
young; are very prolific bearers, with 
clusters two to three times the size of 
butternuts. I am nearly an eighth of 
a mile from any butternut trees, and 
then only one large and one medium¬ 
sized one at that. 
Certainly it would be interesting to 
know if under our climatic conditions 
J. Sieboldiana would develop into a 
type of nut similar to the native butter¬ 
nut. If the trees can be successfully 
budded there is a chance for some up- 
to-date nurseryman to bring out some 
of these valuable crosses, as there 
should be a good sale for budded trees. 
The seedlings vary so much both in type 
of tree and nut as not to be of com¬ 
mercial value, yet most make very 
pretty shade trees. 
The trees, if budded upon J. Seiboldi- 
ana stock would be tfs sure to grow as 
apple or pear trees, as they do not de¬ 
velop a tap-root like the Black walnut 
and others, but a mass of fibrous roots 
which grow near the top of the ground, 
and the cutting of any tap-root or other 
deep growing roots would not prevent 
their making a very healthy growth 
afterwards. If some of our experiment 
stations would take up the matter and 
test these crosses that show promise of 
value, there would be an opportunity to 
teach their students a very valuable oc¬ 
cupation, the budding or grafting of 
such nut trees, but perhaps that is too 
much to ask until someone else has de¬ 
veloped the matter enough to show its 
value and possibilities from the com¬ 
mercial point of view. H. o. mead. 
Worcester Co., Mass. 
Hotbed Advice. 
P. D. A., Meriden, Conn .—I would like 
information about hotbeds. Does a bed 
have to be made over every year, that is 
does the old manure have to be taken out 
and new manure put in and new soil and 
sand ? 
Ans.—H o'tbeds must be made over 
every year, as the manure used in them 
last season has long since passed beyond 
the fermenting period, and is no longer 
of any value as heat-producing material. 
The heating material for hotbeds is 
fresh horse manure, mixed with a 
goodly portion of straw or forest leaves, 
or both, usually about half straw and 
leaves and half manure, which should 
be well mixed and tramped down with 
the feet in layers, forming a cone- 
shaped heap of sufficient size to germi¬ 
nate heat. In severe Winter w’eather 
precaution must be taken that the ma¬ 
terial does not get frozen before placing 
in the heap, as it is very slow to gen¬ 
erate heat in that condition, and may 
cause considerable delay. When a lively 
fermentation has taken place, which will 
be in a few days, and will be indicated 
by the rising of vapor from the heap, 
if must be turned over a second time, 
being careful to mix the outer or cooler 
portion in well with that from the in¬ 
terior of the heap, so that all may un¬ 
dergo about an equal degree of fermen¬ 
tation before putting it in the hotbed. 
It will require two to four days for the 
second fermentation to occur. It will 
now be ready to be placed in hotbed, 
and should be distributed evenly and 
regularly beaten down with the back of 
the fork and lightly trodden with the 
feet, that it may be uniformly solid all 
THE RTJ RA Li NEW-YORKER 
over the bed, and do not neglect to 
tread all around the edges next to the 
frame, as that is the part that is most 
likely to be deficient. The manure 
should be about two feet in depth. 
The sash must now be placed on the 
frame and kept closed until the heat 
gomes up. Place a thermometer ill the 
manure to a depth of three inches or 
more; the heat at this time should be 
about 100 degrees. In about three days 
the violent heat will be passed and the 
temperature drop to 85 or 90 degrees. 
The soil should now be placed on the 
heating material to a depth of five or 
six inches. This soil should be one- 
third rotted manure and two-thirds 
good, sandy loam. It is a good practice 
to remove the soil and manure used the 
previous season from the hotbed in late 
Fall or early Winter, mixing it well and 
piling up for the Winter, under shelter, 
if possible; this will make excellent 
soil for use in the hotbed the following 
season. 
For early cabbage, cauliflower and let¬ 
tuce plants for outside planting the seeds 
should be sown the last week of Febru¬ 
ary. If properly managed the plants 
will be ready to put out in the open 
ground by April 15-20. Tomato, egg 
plant and peppers may be sown March 
15-20, and the hotbed should not be 
prepared for them before the second 
week of that month, as they are plants 
requiring a high temperature. This bed 
prepared for early cabbage, cauliflower 
and lettuce will be too far spent apd too 
cool to grow them successfully. K. 
130 
Golden Seal and Solomon’s Seal. 
Would you give a description of the 
plant known as the golden seal? Is it 
what is known as Solomon's seal? 
Vermont. T. m. d. 
Golden seal and Solomon’s seal are tw<? 
entirely different plants. The first named 
belongs, like columbine, larkspur and but¬ 
tercups, to the Crowfoot family, the latter 
to the Lily family. Golden seal, also called 
orangeroot and yellow puccoon, is Hydrastis 
Canadensis, a low-growing plant, sending 
up in early Spring a rounded five or seven 
lobed root leaf and a stem about a foot 
high, with one or two smaller alternate 
leaves, just below the single small flower. 
The three greenish or purplish sepals fall 
from the bud, leaving many white stamens ; 
the flower is followed by a crimson fruit 
resembling a raspberry. It is found in 
rich woods from New York southwards. It 
has a fleshy yellow rhizome and numerous 
long roots, rhizome and roots being used in 
medicine and also in dyeing. Solomon's 
seal, Polygonatum biflorum and P. gigan- 
teum, has ovate lily-like leaves on either 
side of a graceful stem, with greenish- 
white cylindrical flowers pendent under¬ 
neath, like tassels, the flowers being fol¬ 
lowed by a fruit like a small grape. The 
lesser Solomon’s seal, P. biflorum, bears its 
flowers always in twos, while the greater, 
P. giganteum, has several flowers in a clus¬ 
ter. _ The fruits are black when ripe. The 
berries are said to be poisonous, but the 
plant is not now considered to have any 
medicinal value, though formerly esteemed 
as a cosmetic, and also used as an applica¬ 
tion for bruises and tumors. 
Melon Insects and Diseases. 
On page LI W. E. T., Michigan, gives 
experience with melons. lie tried a num¬ 
ber of things; last he planted his melons 
in between sweet corn, a very large kind. 
The vines carried out most of the melons 
in fine shape. This put me to thinking. 
We planted in a youug apple orchard, 10 
years old. corn on the south and melons 
on the north, in the shade of the corn 
and apple trees. The melons did the best, 
but the two north rows went the same 
way W. E. T.’s did. The fleas did not 
attack those in the shade as in the sun. 
That is the way we found it. h. f. h. 
Connecticut. 
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