22(5 
the; RURAIj NEW-YORKER 
February lg. 
DAIRY OR CREAMERY BUTTER. 
Recently I beard a discussion as to 
“what is the difference between dairy and 
creamery butter.” I would greatly ap¬ 
preciate authorized statement regarding it, 
telling us the process of both creamery 
and dairy butter-making. Can any dairy¬ 
man produce creamery butter with proper 
equipment? If so, what is the necessarj 
equipment? l. c. 
Tioga Co., N. Y. 
It has often been noticed that the 
butter that we as farmers are able to 
get from the stores, even though it is 
marked creamery butter, is of very 
poor quality. So far as New York State 
is concerned we can get but little dairy 
butter, and in most sections none at ail 
unless we go to some farmer who has 
a few cows and is so situated that he 
can make butter with the help on the 
farm. Most farmers have so much dif¬ 
ficulty to get the necessary help to 
carry on the operations of the farm 
that they are unable to make butter. 
The creamery butter that is made in 
the better creameries of the State is 
in such demand that it seldom goes on 
the' general market. Now the result of 
all this is that we really have very little 
opportunity to compare typical butter 
of the creamery with that of the farm- 
made article. Really, good butter is 
good butter, whether made in the 
creamery or the home dairy. I do not 
know that there should be any differ- 
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ence between the two. As a matter of 
fact, there is a vast difference between 
the butter that usually comes on our 
local markets from some creamery that 
is located we know not where, and the 
butter that our mothers used to make 
when we were boys on the farm. 
I have said that our better State but¬ 
ter from our best creameries seldom 
meets our gaze, and is still less fre¬ 
quently found on our tables. The but¬ 
ter that we do get is usually from what 
is called a centralizer out in the west¬ 
ern country. It may be a concern op¬ 
erating on a most gigantic scale. Cream 
may be shipped to it as far as 500 miles 
in some instances, and mav have been 
held for a week before shipping. The 
condition of that cream is far from 
ideal, and it is mixed with cream of all 
degrees of perfection or of imperfec¬ 
tion and an attempt made to manufac¬ 
ture butter of fair selling quality out 
of this conglomerate mass. In order 
to overcome the “off” condition of the 
cream an excess of starter is used, and 
by that method an article of butter is 
produced that is fairly good when first 
made. By the time this butter has been 
made ready to ship and has been for a 
week perhaps on the way to the city 
market in the East it is poorer than 
when it started. It may now be stored 
for a while and then re-shipped to in¬ 
terior points. From there it may be 
distributed to the retail trade and finally 
reach the consumer’s table. It is then 
poor butter and no mistake. The prod¬ 
uct of the early excess of acidity and 
of decomposition are not eliminated by 
pasteurization and the use of the start¬ 
er. Butter does not improve with age 
as does a good cheese, even if of fine 
quality, and if of doubtful condition at 
the start it is easily poor in a moderate 
length of time. This is the history of 
a lot of the butter that is on our mar¬ 
kets. Some of it has had a better his¬ 
tory than I have indicated, but much of 
the market butter is of similar condi¬ 
tion to this I have tried to describe. 
Now suppose we examine the method 
of some of our State creameries or of 
some of the Western creameries that do 
not put their product on the market in 
the way mentioned. It is made from 
clean milk that is properly cooled, or 
from milk that is first run through the 
separator and the cream cooled. The 
milk or the cream is kept cool and 
clean until it reaches the creamery. 
Here it may be pasteurized or not, and 
in many cases a moderate amount of 
starter is used. Sometimes the cream 
is in such good condition that starter is 
dispensed with entirely. The cream is 
churned when just ripe enough, and 
the care of the butter is ideal. The 
product is ideal also. Good material 
and good workmanship ensure a good 
product. There is quite a quantity of 
this sort of'butter made. It may be 
sold by contract at some cents a pound 
above the market quotations. I have 
heard of it being sold at 15 cents a 
pound above the quotations. I have 
never verified any such story, but 1 
know of one creamery that sells at 
eight cents a pound advance on market 
quotations. All of this fine butter is 
in ready demand at fancy prices. 
The old-time dairy butter was made 
from good milk and most of it was 
made when the cows were out to pas¬ 
ture. They were milked in the yard 
and the milk had good care. The cream 
was partially or wholly ripened on the 
milk, which may or may not have an 
effect. The churning was continued a 
little longer than is now thought to be 
best, but it probably made a firmer 
butter. The butter was re-worked and 
was made dry. There was less of but¬ 
ter than the modern methods produce, 
but it would keep better. More salt 
was used than is now the custom. Salt 
may have helped to make the butter 
keep well. It made no more product 
because the addition of salt helped to 
drive out moisture. At the present 
time a good deal of the dairy butter is 
made as it was 30 years ago, but not all 
of it. In some cases a separator is 
used on the farm, the ripening is done 
as in a factory, and sometimes a starter 
is used. In most cases the starter is 
simply buttermilk from the previous 
day's churning added to the cream, and 
usually none is used at all. The meth¬ 
od of churning is frequently the same 
as is now employed in the creamery, 
and is discontinued while the granules 
are quite small. It is possible to get 
more moisture in butter by this method, 
and so make more of the product. This 
is frequently the ambition of the butter 
maker in the creamery, and is permis¬ 
sible to some extent, especially if the 
butter is to be used soon after making. 
It gets a larger "ver-run and is to the 
liking of the patron if he shares in the 
distribution of the returns from the 
sales. To make creamery butter on the 
farm is readily done if creamery meth¬ 
ods are applied, whether it be the meth¬ 
ods of the centralizer or of the better 
class of creameries making better but¬ 
ter. It might be well to have a sep¬ 
arator for it, but other appliances would 
be for convenience only, I think. It 
might not be absolutely necessary to 
have a separator. I think it would be 
necessary to make a more moist prod¬ 
uct than dairy butter used to be, and 
probably more so than it now is, as a 
rule. Let us not think that good but¬ 
ter is anything but simply good butter, 
whether made in a creamery or on a 
farm. h. h. l. 
Butter is Too Hard. 
What is the cause of my butter being too 
hard, too dense, I might put it? I have 
oue_ cow, and set the milk in pans, al¬ 
lowing it to sour slightly before skimming. 
I keep the cream cool and stir thoroughly 
twice a day. The butter is good flavor, 
but in cold weather is so hard it is not 
easy to cut even when kept in a warm 
room. It is also crumbly. I churn at 65 
degrees, as I find it comes too hard to 
be worked with any ease at a lower tem¬ 
perature. The cow is not fed cotton seed 
or anything to cause hard butter. Would 
too much churning tend to the result of 
which I complain? p. l. s. 
New Hampshire. 
Authorities differ as to the effect of dif¬ 
ferent feeds on butter fat, so that it would 
be difficult to lay down rules in this mat¬ 
ter. It is certain that the milk from 
cows in an advanced stage of lactation is 
more likely to produce hard, "tallowy” 
butter than that from fresh cows. There 
seems also to be considerable difference in 
individual cows. The crumbly texture may 
probably be remedied by churning at a 
Higher temperature, say 68 to 70 degrees. 
I know that ordinarily it is better to 
churn at a much lower temperature, but in 
such a case as this I should try the 
higher one. Also, a greater degree of 
ripenfng of the cream will lessen the tend¬ 
ency of the butter to come in fine shot-like 
grannies, which refuse to stick together. 
In our own practice in butter making from 
"stripper” cows we skim a very heavy 
cream, 35 to 40 per cent, using ‘the cen¬ 
trifugal separator, and if necessary, churn 
at 6.8 to 70 degrees. In churning' at this 
temperature considerable care is necessary 
to avoid a greasy or waxy texture. Fre¬ 
quently, in cold weather, one will find 
that after churning several minutes the 
temperature of the cream has fallen sev¬ 
eral degrees. In such a case the cream 
should be taken out and warmed, never 
warmed by pouring hot water into it. 
c. L. M. 
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