THR KUKAb NEW-YORKEH 
26© 
1913. 
Ruralisms 
Dropping Walnuts. 
C. R. M., Peach Bottom, Pa .—I have two 
English walnut trees which have been 
bearing nuts for a number of years. Last 
season they had a great many nuts early 
in the Summer, which fell off later on, 
leaving but a few that came to maturity. 
The nuts appeared to have been stung by 
an insect soon after they were formed, 
which was doubtless the cause of thdir hav¬ 
ing fallen off. Can you suggest a remedy 
to be used the coming season? 
Ans. —It is quite likely that the insects 
that stung the young walnuts was one 
of the class known as “shuck worms.” 
They infest the hulls of the walnuts 
and also the hickories to some extent. 
There are several species of them. The 
common Black walnut hulls are some¬ 
times full of the larvae. It may be that 
the species that is troubling the culti¬ 
vated walnuts, as is now complained of, 
is this same worm. It would be well 
to send specimens of the affected nuts 
to the State and national entomologists, 
and have them examined. So far as I 
know there is no way to combat this 
pest except by gathering the fallen nuts 
at the first opportunity and burn them, 
for they contain the young insects that 
will live over to the next year. There 
is need of more light on the insect 
troubles of the nut trees. 
II. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Unthrifty Trees. 
C. C. W., Ware’s Wharf, Ya. —I cannot 
get trees to live or thrive on one edge 
of my peach orchard; they either die or 
have a stunted sickly look. I have taken 
out the dead and reset with now trees every 
year for three years, hut all have same 
trouble. Remainder of orchard is thrifty 
and bore good crop 1912. All treated alike; 
fertilized alike, soil the same, high, light, 
well-drained. Many of affected trees have 
Black aphis on them in Spring, and large 
light yellow ants having a peculiar odor in¬ 
fest their roots. I spray in March with 
lime-sulphur for scale, and have sprayed 
aphis with soap solution; have just taken 
out every affected tree, about 50, and set 
new again. What can I put around tree 
that will kill or drive away root aphis, 
yellow ants or any insect that injures them, 
without injury to tree? Would air-slaked 
lime, a shoveful to each tree, kill the trees? 
Ans. —It may be that there is some 
disease, such as the yellows or the “lit¬ 
tle peach” working in the trees on the 
side of the orchard that is mentioned. 
If the lime-sulphur spraying is done 
thoroughly each year there ought to be 
no scale insects troubling the trees, yet 
they may be there and not recognized. 
The ants are following the aphids and 
getting food from them, in all prob¬ 
ability, as they often do. Lime might 
benefit the trees and a shovelful to each 
tree well spread and worked into the 
soil would not hurt them. It is to 
be supposed that the borers arc kept 
out by careful inspection and the use 
of a good knife at least twice each 
year. Tobacco dust or stems worked 
. into the soil would stimulate growth 
and might help to prevent aphis but the 
species that usually infests peach trees 
do not live in the soil, as I understand 
them. H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Greenhouse Notes. 
We have just finished sowing the early 
cabbage seed. With us the favorite 
sorts are Early Spring, Early Market 
and Early Jersey Wakefield. These are 
fine extra early varieties. It is our prac¬ 
tice to sow in dcills in shallow flats, 
using light soil entirely free from ma¬ 
nure. Sown in this manner there is less 
danger of damping off, which is so 
fatal to cabbage plants previous to trans¬ 
planting. By covering the seeds the 
depth of themselves and taking care 
never to give too much water, we rarely 
fail to get a choice stand of plants. 
Easter being extremely early this year 
it is necessary that the lilies for that 
date show their buds not later than the 
first week in February. Under ordinary 
forcing conditions plants budding later 
will not be in flower by the desired time. 
A couple of applications of weak liquid 
manure will add to the color and sub¬ 
stance of the plants. Staking should be 
promptly attended to, as there is not only 
danger of the stalks breaking off at the 
pot, but it increases the grace of a lily 
to grow it perfectly erect. Aphids trou¬ 
ble the lily considerably, secreting them¬ 
selves among the buds. A little nico¬ 
tine extract will take care of them. 
One of the showiest plants at Easter 
time is Idydrangea Otaksa. The foliage 
is green and glossy, and each shoot 
makes a fine head of bloom. A copious 
supply of water with a temperature of 
55 to 60 degrees is required by this 
plant. 
One of the most satisfactory plants 
for late Winter blooming is Primula 
obconica. It is a constant bloomer, and 
a very important fact in its favor is 
that it is not susceptible to the many 
changes of temperature and irregular 
temperature frequently given plants in 
the home. However, for better results 
it should be kept in a cool room where 
the temperature does not exceed 50 de¬ 
grees. Primula Malacoides of the baby 
primrose type is a late and valuable 
addition to that famous family of plants. 
In growing geraniums during Winter 
too much water is commonly given 
them. Under this condition a geranium 
cannot do its best. Many more blooms 
and better ones are produced if the 
plant is grown on the dry side. The 
stalks will be firmer, the leaves greener 
and the general vigor of the plant su¬ 
perior. Cuttings taken now will make 
strong budding plants by latter May. 
Dutch hyacinths, tulips and daffodils 
occupy a big place in the flower shops at 
present. The former, though very old, 
will never lose their popularity. Yellow 
Prince and Keizerkroon tulips when 
grown in shallow pans are extremely 
showy. Daffodils, both single and dou¬ 
ble, when offered in this way find a 
ready sale. When brought in from the 
cellar or outdoors to force, tulips can 
be placed in the heat at once. They 
must be shaded, and they do best in a 
close, still atmosphere. They can be 
given 70 degrees of heat, but require 
it above the pots rather than at the 
bottom; hence if placed in a warm place 
and enclosed with paper or cheese cloth 
they do well. Hyacinths and daffodils 
require different treatment. They 
should be placed in a cool room for a 
time before being put in the heat for 
forcing. Bulbous stock of all kinds re¬ 
quire an abundance of water. If wanted 
for Easter these bulbs should be gotten 
into warm quarters not later than Feb¬ 
ruary 15 j. L. M. 
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