1913. 
Ruralisms 
YUCCAS AND AZALEA MOLLIS. 
I enclose a recent photograph, shown 
in Fig. 462, of a corner bed in my 
lawn. The plants in bloom are Yucca 
niamentosa. The other plants are 
mostly Iris, and bloom in May ; they are 
white, brown, light blue and dark blue; 
one Azalea mollis and one white Chry¬ 
santhemum to bloom later. Queen Char¬ 
lotte Canna now in bloom with a border 
of red-flowered primrose. The Yuccas re¬ 
main green all Winter. I can tell how 
deep the snow is from my window. 
New Jersey. E. r. beebe. 
Yucca filamentosa or Adam’s needle is 
a showy native plant, attractive at all 
seasons, for the graceful clump of ever¬ 
green leaves is very ornamental when 
the plant is out of bloom. It prefers 
a well-drained sandy loam, but will grow 
in most soils if the drainage is good. 
Once planted the Yucca may be regarded 
as a permanent possession, unless some 
unusual condition destroys it. It is well 
to cut out the flower stalk after the 
flowers fade, so that the plant will not 
exhaust strength in forming seed. Indi¬ 
vidual plants vary somewhat in regular¬ 
ity of blooming; some are late in begin¬ 
ning to bloom, and some let several years 
elapse between flowering. Naturally there 
THE RURAb NEW-YORKER 
the reverse. From the description of the 
trees they are in very bad condition and 
decay of the dead wood of the trunks 
will surely follow in short time. I would 
suggest bridge-grafting them over the 
diseased places if the wood and bark 
above and below them seem to be healthy, 
provided the variety or varieties are es¬ 
pecially wanted, and because of their 
age. If the bridge-grafting is not suc¬ 
cessful then dig them out and replace 
with two trees two or three years old. 
The diseased places should be carefully 
painted over to prevent further entrance 
of the germs of rot. 
H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
1207 
Transplanting Large Apple Trees. 
A neighbor has a dozen or so apple 
trees that he wishes to take out of his 
garden. I can have them for the taking 
if so inclined. Can these trees be up¬ 
rooted and transplanted into another 
soil? The trees are 12^ years old, ap¬ 
parently healthy, and vary from four to 
nine inches in diameter on the trunks. 
The varieties are Baldwin, Wealthy, 
Maiden Blush and Red Astraclian. The 
soil in which I wish to put them has 
never been plowed yet and is rather poor 
and sandy. Just cleared last Winter 
fro™ * irs > alders, and cedars, and about 
100 hens have been allowed to roam on 
the place. I have abundant cow and hen 
manure. If these trees will bear again 
YUCCA FILAMENTOSA IN BLOOM. Fig. 462. 
is less vigor where the plants are starved 
by tree roots. A long period of flowers 
is secured by planting several varieties; 
Yucca glauca, Y. filamentosa and Y. 
tlaccida follow one another in period of 
bloom, while Y. gloriosa, which does not 
flower every year, blooms from late Au¬ 
gust till frost, but it is much more ten¬ 
der than the other sorts named, and has 
not been hardy with us in Northern New 
Jersey. A group of blooming Yuccas, 
seen by moonlight, is one of the most 
beautiful sights the garden affords. 
Azalea mollis is the Chinese Azalea, a 
very handsome hardy shrub, with yellow, 
orange or pink flowers. A great many 
seedlings have been produced from it, 
varying in type, but all extremely decora¬ 
tive. They grow best in peaty or sandy 
soil containing no limestone in a sorne- 
" hat moist and partly shaded location. 
Iu a very exposed place in the North, a 
little Winter protection of hay or brush 
is desirable to avoid the effects of rapid 
changes of temperature upon the flower 
buds. 
Bark Splits on Apple Trees. 
Cun you tell me what has caused a 
< ouple of young four-year-old apple trees 
1>Ianted on my lawn to become injured? 
1 llc bark on both tree trunks and main 
branches split open last year, and since 
tnen more and more naked wood has 
been exposed with no bark on the trunk 
in some places for over half the surface. 
■ be trees are not what you should call 
extra good, but came out well in leaf 
■ tst bpring and made good growth this 
• uminer, but they make a bad appear¬ 
ance, and a fungus growth has appeared 
small patches on the bare wood, 
ould it be worth while letting the trees 
i inain, or would you advise replacing 
them? j B 
Cranford, N. J. 
11 is probable that the four-year apple 
'let's complained of are affected with some 
’<>nn of what is commonly termed “sun- 
•'icald. This may have been caused by 
smne fungus disease or by the action of 
•b" climatic changes from hot to cold or 
in a couple of years, when and how shall 
we go about this? A local nurseryman 
advises not to trim roots or branches but 
to wait until the leaves are off, or else 
strip the leaves before moving. 
Home, Wash. t. v. b. 
I see no good reason why the apple 
trees in question cannot be successfully 
moved at reasonable cost as they are only 
a short distance from where it is de¬ 
sired to transplant them. It is only a 
question of doing it properly and at the 
right time. Any time after the leaves 
fall, or even sooner by stripping them 
off, as has been suggested, is the time to 
do it. It will be impossible to dig up the 
trees without disturbing and cutting back 
many of the roots .and it would be a mis¬ 
take and maybe a fatal one not to cut 
back the top quite severely. Dig at least 
four to six feet from the base of each 
tree and there cut off all the roots. Then 
follow them back to within three or four 
feet of the base, being careful not to 
injure them more than must be done and 
there dig under them so as to leave a 
ball of earth as big as can be handled. 
Pry up this ball and slide a stoneboat 
beneath the ball as far as is possible, 
and then draw the tree and stoneboat to 
the place of planting. Have a hole dug 
into which the ball of earth and the pro¬ 
jecting roots will fit. Slide them in 
place and tramp and pound the soil firm¬ 
ly about and over all. Then water the 
soil thoroughly. h. e. v. d. ; 
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