193 3. 
1231 
Ruralisms 
Propagation of Privet and Small Fruits. 
I wish to propagate the following by 
cuttings, and would like you to tell me 
when to make the cuttings, how to care 
for them through the Winter, if they 
are to be cut this Fall; also when to set 
them in the ground next Spring for cul¬ 
tivation for a year or so. Russian or 
Amoor privet; California privet; goose¬ 
berry ; currant; red raspberry; blackberry 
and grape. E. F. p. 
Keosauqua, Iowa. 
Russian or Amoor privet is treated like 
the California privet. Take cuttings of 
stout one-year wood now, making them 
five or six inches long, strip leaves off 
and tie in small bundles. Bury these, 
tops up, over Winter. In the Spring, 
before growth starts, plant in mellow, 
well-tilled land in rows eight inches apart, 
cuttings four inches apart in the rows. 
Keep them clean and well cultivated. 
Gooseberries are commonly propagated 
by layers, though cuttings seven to nine 
inches long may be taken now, and either 
set quite deep at the present time, or tied 
in bundles over Winter like the privet. 
Cuttings do not always strike well, hence 
the use of layers. Layering is done in 
the Spring, and commercially it is the 
custom to plow a furrow along each side 
of the row, and force the branches down 
by throwing soil on top of them. In the 
Fall the soil is removed and the rooted 
branches separated. Native gooseberries 
are also propagated by root cuttings. 
Currant cuttings of hard wood root very 
easily. They may be set in rows in the 
Fall, being cut six to 10 inches long, and 
set deeply, so that not more than two 
buds are above the ground. Fall cuttings 
should always be mulched to prevent 
heaving. They may also be treated like 
privet, but we think Fall setting desir¬ 
able. Both red raspberries and blackber¬ 
ries are propagated by suckers and by 
root cuttings, the latter giving the better 
plants. Roots from one-fourth to three- 
eighths inch in diameter are dug in the 
Fall, cut into pieces an inch or two long, 
and stored till Spring. They are either 
stratified like seeds, or stored in boxes 
in a cool cellar. The pieces are planted 
in loose rich soil in April or May, being 
set horizontally an inch or two deep. 
They do not make as much growth in 
the open, as when planted in a mild hot¬ 
bed or frame with bottom heat; some 
varieties strike very slowly in the open. 
Take grape cuttings about the beginning 
of December, cutting them eight or 10 
inches long, with one bud near the butt 
end and another just below the top. Tie 
in bundles and bury them over Winter, 
butt ends up. In the Spring set in rows 
in rich, well tilled soil, giving them 
a slight slant in the rows, and give them 
good cultivation throughout the season. 
Rot in Tomatoes. 
I had one-third acre of tomatoes on a 
gravel loam sloping to south, manured 
rather heavily last Winter with stable 
manure, straw and shavings used for 
bedding. About one ton phosphate per 
acre was applied when the plants were 
set; plants 3x3 feet tied to stake, mostly 
of the Stone variety. Three-fourths of 
crop rotted; a few hills on the lower end 
of each row were in a heavier and moist 
soil, and they were all right. The fruit 
that set were very large, but deformed in 
the blossom side, then later nearly all 
were spoiled by the rot. The field was 
pretty dry through August, but wondered 
what could have caused the deformity 
earlier in the season. The field was in 
tomatoes last year. Another field of 
200 plants did not have any rot, and that 
was the third crop in that spot. 
Hampshire Co., Mass. a. f. j. 
The rotting of tomatoes while still in 
the stage of growth development, is 
caused either by unfavorable soil or 
weather conditions, or both. Heavy man¬ 
uring with muck, guano, fish scraps or 
any manure that contains a large per¬ 
centage of ammonia will cause more or 
less of this species of rot; in fact too 
heavy an application of any kind of man- 
ore is likely to cause its appearance. 
The tomato is not a gross feeder; it 
rather prefers a poor soil, to one that is 
too rich. One or two shovelfuls of well- 
rotted stable manure or good compost 
to each hill is sufficient for the plant’s 
requirements, and there will be but very 
little danger of over-feeding, whereas 
when manures are applied broadcast in 
hirge quantities, especially if it is par¬ 
tially grown, there is always danger of 
over-stimulation, which can only prove 
more or less of a detriment to the crop, 
U'HE RURAL) NEVV-VORKRk 
and in many cases result in much loss 
by the rotting of the undeveloped fruit. 
Very often the soil and weather condi¬ 
tions have much to do with the devel¬ 
opment of this species of rot. Low wet 
land, in a wet season, seems particularly 
favorable to it, and there is almost in¬ 
variably more or less of the rot present, 
whereas if the weather is dry, as a rule 
very little will occur. On the other hand, 
high and naturally dry land, in a dry 
season, will be quite as favorable-for the 
development of the rot, as the low wet 
land in a wet season, whereas very little 
rot is likely to be present on the high 
and naturally dry soil in a wet season. 
Now the question naturally comes up. 
why does excessive moisture or lack of 
sufficient moisture in the soil, equally 
favor the development of the rot? The 
answer is this: During the blooming 
period, if the plant cells are gorged with 
water, or are getting less moisture than 
is naturally required, many of the young 
fruits, set while the plant is in either of 
these extreme conditions, will be de¬ 
fective, the blossom end not closing per¬ 
fectly or having a very thin skin cover¬ 
ing. which leaves the young fruit in a 
condition particularly favorable to the 
development of this rot. Too much stim¬ 
ulating manure will have the same effect. 
So far as I have been able to learn this 
species of rot has not been classed by 
plant pathologists as a specific fungus 
disease. Nor have I seen any method of 
control recommended other than to give 
the plants the best soil conditions possible 
and. trust to Providence for favorable 
weather conditions. I hardly think 
planting on the same soil for a number 
of consecutive years, has any tendency 
whatever to cause any increase of the 
rot. I have used the same ground for 
tomatoes and set the plants in the same 
places for six years. Last year quite 
a number were attacked with the rot, but 
one fruit was lost from this cause this 
year. k. 
Culture of Lavender. 
Will you tell me how to start lavender, 
and give all the information you can 
about it? Would the soil "here be suit¬ 
able? It is sandy loam. mrs. a. l. c. 
East Lebanon, Me. 
Your soil would probably be quite sat¬ 
isfactory, as lavender likes a light open 
soil, even when sandy or stony, and free 
sunlight. We have no knowledge, how¬ 
ever, of its culture in Maine; the climate 
may be too severe. The plant is usually 
propagated from cuttings of one season’s 
growth, cut with a heel, and planted in 
Spring or Fall. These are set three to 
four inches apart in rather moist soil, 
and shaded until they root .. Division of 
the plant is also practiced, but commer¬ 
cial growers think plants thus obtained 
are less robust, and more susceptible to 
disease. We have raised lavender in 
Northern New Jersey, with moderate 
success. Sowings in early Spring failed 
to germinate, possibly because the seed 
was too old. Freshly-ripened seed was 
secured in July, and sown in shallow 
boxes, which were covered with panes of 
glass, and set outdoors on the north side 
of a building, where the boxes were 
watered as required. The boxes were 
stored over Winter in a cold frame, the 
little seedlings having been thinned out 
as they required room, and the following 
Spring we had sturdy young plants with 
a good root system. We do not claim 
that this is the best way to raise laven¬ 
der from seed, but it is the only method 
which has given us success. In com¬ 
mercial culture the young plants are set 
out, after danger of frost is over in 
rows running north, and south, six feet 
apart, the plants four feet apart in the 
rows. Clean cultivation is given. The 
plants are clipped to prevent flowering 
the first year, after which they bloom till 
five or six years old. Lavender is not 
heavily fertilized, but a light dressing of 
stable manure or wood ashes may be ap¬ 
plied in the Fall. In the Eastern States 
lavender is sparingly grown in gardens, 
but is said to do well commercially 
planted in California. The world’s lav¬ 
ender crop is chiefly produced by Eng¬ 
land and France. 
Rank-growing Orchard. 
My orchard grew too fast this year, 
from eight to 12 inches of growth. What 
would you do? Would you apply phos¬ 
phoric acid and potash? If so how 
much? s . J. E. 
In such cases the usual plan is to stop 
cultivating for a year or so, cut the 
grass and weeds and leave on the ground. 
Fse 400 pounds per acre of a mixture of 
three parts acid phosphate and one part 
muriate of potash. 
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