1913. 
THK RURAL NEW-VOKKEK 
1358 
Accessories Any 
Woman Can Make 
, Je 
It is not the amount of money a woman 
spends that stamps her as modish and 
up-to-date, but it is the little individual 
touches—the bit of lace well applied, the 
bow or tassel in just the right place, the 
effective color note struck by the smart 
little frill or cabochon, or girdle. I think 
that I must have been the charter mem¬ 
ber of the “Scrap Bag Club.” At any 
rate, I have always believed that more* 
beautiful things could be evolved from 
left-overs and materials that are folded 
away in scrap bags than the average 
woman ever dreams of. Try it and see 
what a little thought will accomplish with 
the “leftovers.” 
An accessory which plays one of the 
most important roles in this Winter’s 
fashions, is the girdle. No fashionable 
costume is complete without one, and 
even an old gown may be quite trans¬ 
formed by such an accessory. The as¬ 
sortment is varied. They range from 
the extremely wide style to the conser¬ 
vative medium, such as is shown on the 
model, and so on down the scale to the 
narrow belt effect. 
Since the introduction of the waist¬ 
coat the idea has been applied to girdles 
in numerous ways. The girdle pictured 
is made of blue and green plaid silk in 
soft crush style. It is secured under 
the right arm with hooks and eyes. The 
latter are covered by the long loop and 
two ends of the plaid. For making, three- 
fourths of a yard of silk, cut on the 
bias, is required, with one half yard of 
plain white or colored china silk for the 
lining, as the latter can be pieced. No 
pattern is required as there is no shape 
to the girdle. It is merely cut from nine 
to 12 inches wide, according to one’s 
preference, and when adjusted to the 
figure it shapes itself. The ends of silk 
are five inches wide and they are slashed 
and stitched. Such a girdle is suitable 
to wear with any costume, either street 
or for more dressy occasions, as it is 
stylish without being extreme. 
A little wrinkle to bear in mind with 
reference to home-made girdles is that 
featherbone should be stitched to the 
seams of the lining, if there is a lining, 
as in the case of the foregoing. This 
particular girdle has no seams in the 
lining, as it is the straight-all-round ef¬ 
fect, so the featherboning is applied in 
front, at the back and the sides. Even 
the fitted girdles have the “easy,” large 
waist effect, for the wasp-like waist of 
Grandmamma’s day is no longer the fash¬ 
ion. The ample waist is the one about 
which the poet is raving now, and ac¬ 
cording to predictions the large waist 
will be the fashion indefinitely. The lin¬ 
ing is, of course, boned at both edges of 
the closing. Hooks and eyes are secured 
at one end, which, by the way, should 
be left long enough to lap over the other. 
One of the smartest ideas I have seen 
in the cheery plaid girdles was a bias 
one cut about nine inches wide on the 
bias and straight all the way around, 
waistcoat fashion, without any loops or 
ends. The lining of this girdle was well 
boned at the front, closing on both sides, 
under the arms, and in the back. The actual 
closing was where the lining hooked and 
eyed down the front, though the girdle 
appeared to button. The buttons were 
molds covered with the plain center of 
the plaid silk, and very tiny. They were 
merely sewn down the front of the girdle 
for decoration. Two or three hooks and 
eyes secured the silk, and prevented it 
from revealing the lining. If slightly 
fitted on either side, curving ever so little, 
then boning, this girdle will be more at¬ 
tractive than if left perfectly straight. 
This style of accessory may be varied, if 
desired, by attaching a long sash end in 
the back, as follows: 
Bias the plaid the same as the girdle. 
This will require about 12 inches of the 
silk, 20 inches long. Make a box plait 
iu the center, and two side plaits on 
each side of the box plaits. Dampen on 
the wrong side (the end having been 
basted) and press with a warm iron un¬ 
til the plaits are set. Then attach one 
end to the upper section of the girdle just 
inside the lining, permitting the one 
plaited end to hang over the girdle in 
the back or at the side. This end is 
stitched with either a narrow or wide 
hem, preferably the latter. If lined with 
china silk, the same as the girdle, the 
sash end will be more attractive, as the 
lining will show with every movement. 
Add an extra half yard for sash, if the 
latter is desired. 
Still another strictly waistcoat girdle 
idea is made as follows: Select either 
plaid, or brocade silk and make a lin¬ 
ing straight round the top. graduating 
the bottom to two points at the front 
A Smart Blouse With Effective 
Sasii. 
closing. This makes the girdle narrower 
in the back than iu the front. Curve at 
the sides slightly. Fit to the figure loose¬ 
ly, then cut the outside. It will be a 
good idea to cut a paper pattern before 
attempting to make this girdle, which is 
really very simple, but which requires a 
little more thought in shaping. In other 
words, instead of the girdle closing in 
a straight line down the front, points are 
left on the goods, thus giving a triangle 
where the buttons come. Hooks and eyes 
are used for the actual closing. Three 
black velvet buttons adorn the triangle, 
Two Picturesque Girdles. Black 
Velvet at Left : Butterfly of 
Taffeta at Right. 
giving just the little smart touch needed. 
In fact, black velvet introduced either 
as buttons or loops, or whatnot, always 
give the little Frenchy touch that we 
all desire. 
The first and second girdles described 
are more attractive when made of some 
silk fabric. The last one cut triangular 
shape in front may be reproduced to 
match a tailored costume, either of broad¬ 
cloth or any wool material. I saw a 
handsome one in a Fifth Avenue shop 
the other day made of chamois skin. 
There was still another of suede, which 
reminded me that I had been saving my 
long suede glove tops for a long time for 
some such purpose. If you have never 
tried it, now is your opportunity to 
utilize the glove tops for this purpose. 
We all know the fingers of gloves wear 
out, leaving the uppers in perfect condi¬ 
tion. Long ago I discovered that these 
need not be discarded, as they make the 
most adorable belts imaginable. They 
may be lined with silk or satin and have 
buttons of the same, or of velvet. Four 
pairs of glove tops will make a lovely, 
wide crush belt. It may have either one 
or two “patch” pockets of the suede ap¬ 
plied in front. These are useful for carry¬ 
ing the girdle handkerchief and small 
change. Make the belt perfectly straight. 
It will crush to the figure the first wear¬ 
ing. Line with satin or silk. 
I know a girl who utilized an old piece 
of brocade from a worn-out sofa for mak¬ 
ing such a waistcoat girdle. It was 
much smarter than anything I have seen 
in the shops. The upper portion of this 
particular style of girdle should come 
just a little above the waist-line, the 
lower section extending over the hips. 
This gives a long waist line. There are 
plenty of paper girdle patterns to be 
bought, any one of which will serve as a 
guide for the belts described. The shap¬ 
ing is a matter of individual taste. 
One of the most stunning belts imag¬ 
inable was fashioned by another clever 
girl from an old piece of flowered brocade 
—a breadth from an old gown of her 
mother’s. An antiquated pair of puff 
sleeves from a* black satin waist made a 
beautiful girdle for wear with a black 
tailored suit. The coat of the latter was 
a “box,” but the same deft fingers cut 
it away sharply in front to show the vest 
girdle. Any woman who wishes to have 
a precise idea as to just how these waist¬ 
coat girdles look, need only take a pie- 
bean masculine vest, regardless of age or 
cut, and gaze at it intently. Then im¬ 
agine the lower section cut straight 
around just above the lower pockets, the 
entire upper portion missing. This is 
the way the new feminine girdle appears. 
Nothing could be smarter, when worn 
with a cutaway coat. 
The more conservative woman will 
perhaps prefer a girdle such as is pic¬ 
tured below. This may be made of 
black velvet ribbon or cut velvet, and 
lined with white satin or, china silk. 
White satin with the black velvet is ex¬ 
ceedingly rich, and the black and white 
combination is always desirable. The 
belt proper is of the black ribbon, the 
edges of which are wide enough to turn 
over the plaited white satin center. Or 
the center may be shirred, and caught 
down at intervals. In any event, it will 
soon shape to the figure. Close either at 
the right side or the back with a broad 
velvet bow having two loops, and two 
long ends slashed. A ball fringe may be 
made of bits of cotton and circular disks 
of satin, preferably black, shirring in the 
center exactly as if for a button, leaving 
a long end of button-hole twist for at¬ 
taching it to the slashing. The same 
style belt reproduced for a young girl 
will be very lovely if fashioned of blue 
velvet ribbon and lined with white satin. 
In this event the “fringe” should be of 
blue satin. Even cut velvet, if on the 
bias, may be utilized for such a belt girdle. 
The “butterfly” girdle of black taffetas 
is a dainty accessory to change the ap¬ 
pearance of a gown that is not quite up- 
to-date. The belt is side-plaited and 
boned in four places, each side of the 
closing, and under the arms. The two 
loops and one long * streamer end with 
side plaited bandings to match the belt, 
are edged with the narrowest side plait¬ 
ing of the silk to match. Black satiu 
for such a girdle may also be used ef¬ 
fectively. For a dainty girdle what could 
be lovelier than a pale blue, pink or white 
with the floral cabochon at the side as 
a finish? One in white with robin’s egg 
blue satin for plaitings would be charm¬ 
ing for a young girl. 
The ribbon rose which ornaments one 
side of the girdle is of pink satin. It is 
easily made by rolling the ribbon around 
a pencil to form the petals, distributing 
the same occasionally, so they will look 
more natural. A breadth from an old 
silk skirt that is not worn will be just 
the thing to make such a girdle, utilizing 
the sleeves of another frock for the plait- 
ings and floral decoration. 
A lady recently returned from Paris 
showed me the Frenchiest little girdle 
imaginable which Callot made for her to 
wear with a tailored suit. It was six 
inches wide and of heavy silk braid like 
that commonly used on tailored costumes. 
The ends were drawn together and fin¬ 
ished with long, heavy silk tassels. That 
was all there was to it—no boning, no 
lining—simply a yard and a half length 
of the braid with the end drawn and fin¬ 
ished with the tassels. The belt was ad¬ 
justed by passing it loosely around the 
waist, tying and lotting one end hang 
free above the other. The price of my 
friend’s belt was prohibitive, but any 
clever woman can easily duplicate it 
either in ribbon or braid for a trifle. 
While on the subject of girdles, and 
having touched upon the waistcoat idea, 
it may not bd amiss to mention the fact 
that we who have gazed with envy upon 
the remarkable vests worn by such cele¬ 
brities as Byron and Goethe, may now 
in the fullness of time fashion a vest for 
our “Sunday best,” if not several of 
these charming accessories. No dress is 
considered quite complete without one of 
these fancy vests. In fact, they are now 
sold in all colors—black, white, brocaded, 
silk, moire, satin, velvet, brocaded chif¬ 
fon and velvet, but they are expensive to 
buy ready-made. Some are extremely 
mannish, and yet do not appear mascu¬ 
line when they are worn under the cut¬ 
away coat; others are more conservative. 
All these waistcoats close down the front 
with buttons, or hooks and eyes, the but¬ 
tons simulating the closing. Some have 
pockets, others flaps. When the back is 
made of the same material as the front 
the waistcoat is worn as an overblouse. 
This transformation will be welcomed by 
the woman whose blouses are beginning 
to look worn and old-fashioned. Cable 
cord is frequently used for finishing the 
armholes of the overwaistcoat. This 
comes in several sizes and is a soft twist¬ 
ed cord. It is five cents for a roll of 
several yards. The cord is, of course, 
concealed in a bias strip of the material. 
The buttons may be simply ornamental, 
the patent ball and socket fasteners form¬ 
ing the actual closing. Patterns for vests 
come in all shapes and sizes, and these 
can be easily changed or modified to suit 
individual requiremen ts. 
If you have a band of fur—mink from 
an old muff or scarf that has seen its 
best days, now is the time to utilize it 
for trimming the upper portion of your 
vest. It will give a smart touch to this 
accessory, as fur is used on everything 
this Winter. An old neckpiece should 
yield enough banding not only for the 
waistcoat, but for the girdle as well. For 
the latter edge the top and the long sash 
ends. Fur banding can be purchased by 
the yard in the best shops at a very rea¬ 
sonable figure, and marabou, which is 
always desirable for trimming, is exceed¬ 
ingly cheap. LOUISE E. dew. 
Social Life in Winter. 
We think the dreariness of country life 
in the Winter has been a good deal over¬ 
rated, for as a rule it is the season when 
social activities begin; friendly visiting, 
farmers’ meetings, etc. The women find 
plenty to do, not only in the regular 
housework, but in sewing and other pre¬ 
parations for Spring, so that their usual 
course of life is not interrupted. There 
are, however, some farms where there is 
little stock kept, and the men’s Winter 
work is limited to a comparatively nar¬ 
row daily routine. Under such condi¬ 
tions they are likely to suffer in health 
from lack of the exercise they are accus¬ 
tomed to, and to feel a mental depression 
or irritation that really has its basis in 
physical conditions. If, in addition to 
this, the living rooms are somewhat 
cramped, and the family huddled together 
to save the heating of extra rooms, we 
have ample material for friction. City 
people now go to the country in the Win¬ 
ter for the purpose of enjoying outdoor 
sports. There is every reason why coun¬ 
try people should make the most of th« 
wholesome pleasures of rural life, and 
they should be planned for like the sea¬ 
son’s work. Two great organizations that 
are bringing country pleasures home 
to thousands of young people are 
the Camp Fire Girls and the Boy 
Scouts, and in both cases their eld¬ 
ers have a chance to become interested in 
their activities also. If, to these outdoor 
pleasures, we add some selected course for 
reading and study, and, where circum¬ 
stances permit, a trip to an experiment 
station or agricultural college, we have 
material for a Winter season that is both 
pleasant and profitable. 
