94 
FLORIDA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY 
start growth from grafted wood. It also 
gives a surprising growth of wood and 
a quick return of the tree to a profitable 
bearing condition. In hot weather 
shade should be used to prevent the 
roasting of the grafts. A notable in¬ 
stance of the successful use of this kind 
of grafting was that of our late lamented 
President Dudley W. Adams, imme¬ 
diately after the freeze of 1895. The 
only drawback in its use for restoring 
groves of citrus fruits on sour stock is 
that it carried the sweet wood down 
where it is liable to attacks from foot rot 
on lands subject to that disease. It puts 
the tree about on a par with sweet seed¬ 
lings in this respect. Foot rot (mal de 
goma) will often jump up a foot from 
the ground to reach sweet wood, that is, 
on resistant stock. 
Crown-grafting can, however, be done 
at any height in sound stock, 
SIDE-GRAFTING. 
Side-grafting is the simplest of all the 
methods and is applicable to large wood 
at any time when the bark will slip suf¬ 
ficiently to allow of fairly successful bud¬ 
ding. It is also often successful when 
budding is not. In the case of large 
seedlings or other trees to be worked 
over, side-grafts put in in the fall, left 
dormant until the spring and then 
started out by lopping the tops, will al¬ 
low of a fine crop of fruit from the old 
top while the new one is being grown. 
There is quite a knack in properly 
laying down the old tops, so as not to 
throw off the bark at the bud. To do 
this successfully, saw pretty nearly 
through the old trunk a little way above 
the graft, put a firm bearing against it 
a few inches above the cut, then pull the 
top over in a way to make a long split 
upward. It is surprising what a crop 
of fruit can be made, even on a shy bear¬ 
er like the navel, through a wide, thin 
sliver connecting the top with the root. 
After cutting, as above, cover the 
wound with liquid wax. I have given 
the recipe for this wax before, but it is 
good enough to bear repeating here: 
Melt one pound of rosin with two ounces 
of tallow, remove from fire and when 
slightly cooled add six ounces of alcohol 
and, last, one ounce of turpentine. Keep 
well corked in large-mouthed bottle with 
brush thrust through the cork. 
The mode of side-grafting is to take 
well matured twigs, cut to a taper from 
one side, as in crown-grafting, except 
that I cut a little deeper at first, and then 
run out the rest of the way in a thin 
tapering tongue that will easily bend to 
the curvature of the trunk. 
Small wood for grafts may not make 
as vigorous a first growth as larger 
wood, but it is easier to use and will soon 
make up in growth. A vertical cut is 
made in the bark of the stock about 
three-quarters of an inch long and slant¬ 
ing in the direction the graft is to take. 
With a slight twist of the knife the bark 
is started from the wood and the 
wedged part of the scion slipped under 
at an angle of twenty to fifty degrees 
from the course of the stock. If well 
done, there is little need of wrapping. 
If poorly done, wrap and then stick an 
orange thorn under the wrapping at 
each side of the scion to hold the bark 
close. After a good-sized top is made 
from the grafts the old top can be cut 
away. 
Tongue, shoulder, lip, saddle and that 
class of grafting are in little use among 
orange growers. They are mostly 
