98 
FLORIDA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY 
etc. The dormant buds are started with 
the first growth in spring, and time is 
gained in getting ahead of grasshoppers 
and black ants. 
Major Fairbanks—Is there not a lit¬ 
tle danger of late cold taking the dor¬ 
mant buds, starting a little early in the 
fall? 
Mr. Hart—The bud is banked, of 
course, and the banking does not need 
to go much above the bud. I expose it 
to the sunlight and lop the top as soon 
as growth starts in the tree, and it will 
push. If there is danger of cold, all you 
have to do is to press the dirt together, 
where it has been parted for the bud, 
and it will be protected even if it has 
grown. 
Question—Do you cut the stock in the 
fall or leave it until spring? 
Mr. Hart—Until spring. You don’t 
want to lop the top until growth starts 
in the tree. In other words, by leaving 
the top on the tree until danger of cold 
is over you would get rid of that risk 
that you incur by forcing the bud out, 
but whenever growth starts in the tree 
I want the bud to grow. One of my 
points in budding in the fall is to have 
them push as soon as the other buds of 
that tree do in the spring. If you don’t 
top it the growth goes to the top of the 
tree and I find in my practice that it is 
a gain to force the bud at once. A nur¬ 
seryman, having thousands of buds in, 
could not safely do this. 
Mr. Taber—From a nurseryman’s 
standpoint you don’t want to force a 
growth from anything in the citrus line 
in the spring. I would say that in dor¬ 
mant budding the bud should be in¬ 
serted as late as possible and prevented 
from starting out. I have inserted dor¬ 
mant buds in the latter part of Septem¬ 
ber and in the spring we would find one 
hundred of them from six inches to 
sometimes a foot in length. 
SHOVE UP OR SHOVE DOWN. 
Mr. Painter—Mr. Hart made the ^re¬ 
mark in his article that it does not make 
any difference whether the bud is shoved 
up or shoved down. I would like to 
know whether this is really the expe¬ 
rience of budders. We all know that 
the sap goes up the wood and returns 
within the bark, and the first thing after 
the wound is made this sap heals the 
wound. If the bud is shoved down, the 
shoving prevents this, while if it is 
shoved up it heals the new wound. I 
am fully aware that the buds will take 
if shoved down and sometimes a bud 
will take put in almost any way. Some¬ 
times with the most careful budding they 
refuse to take, but it seems to me if 
shoved up they will stand a better chance 
than if shoved down. 
Mr. Griffing—In my experience in 
budding the orange tree we always shove 
the bud up, so as to shut the water out 
from the bud, but in pears, peaches, 
plums we always shove the bud down. 
We see no difference in the buds shoved 
up or down, but in the orange we see a 
marked difference, the bud shoved up 
taking better. The oranges we wrap 
with a wax cloth, and sometimes that 
don’t keep the rain out. Others we do 
not wrap with anything except twine. 
Mr. Reasoner—In budding we have 
the buds all shoved up, and we never use 
anything to wrap with. 
Mr. Carter—I shove buds upward 
just because I learned that way. I use 
wax cloth and wrap it so that when I 
