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FLORIDA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY 99 
finish up I have the two ends together, 
and just twist them. 
Mr. Pierson—My experience has been 
to shove the bud down, possibly because 
I learned that way, and they seem to 
take very readily with me. I use al¬ 
together raffia to tie with and when 
starting out I used waxed cloth, but I 
found that the buds would scald. 
Mr. McCarty—There are two points 
not touched on. One is in reference to 
the way you hold your knife in making 
your cross-cut. The man whom I put 
in to bud took the knife and cut right 
square across. I have seen no differ¬ 
ence in shoving up or down, but shoving 
up is probably the best way. Another 
point which has not been covered, which 
is important with me, is whether you bud 
on the south side or north side of the 
tree, with reference to the sun striking 
it. We usually do it on the north side so 
as to have it shady. We believe we have 
better results on the north side. I just 
merely ask for information on that point. 
Mr. Phelps—On the north or south 
side, either one, if there is an excessive 
sap or rainy season, the buds will fer¬ 
ment. They will not ferment as quickly 
on the north side as on the south. With 
me it has been a very good way, if I am 
using wax cloth, not to bring the two 
edges together, so as to allow air. They 
will not heat as quickly. This is another 
reason why I have budded on the north¬ 
east side. 
Mr. Reasoner—As far as buds on one 
side or the other is concerned, in either 
the fall or the spring when most budding 
is done, there is very little difference as 
to the heat. The sun rises so far in the 
north and sets so far in the north in the 
late spring, that the north side is as 
warm as the others. 
Mr. Taber—I do believe there is a 
little something in that. Late in the 
summer putting the bud on the north¬ 
east side of the tree; it will keep better 
during a hot time than anywhere else on 
the tree. The sun strikes them, but it 
is the morning sun. Then the sun goes 
round to the south and does not strike 
them. 
Mr. Carter—You say you do not use 
water sprouts for budding. What is 
your objection to them, please? 
Mr. Hart—My objection to water 
sprouts is that if you practice using them 
you will get wood that is immature, for 
one thing, but I have always been under 
the impression that it makes a tall, thin 
tree. Right after the freeze I had some 1 
buds sent me that were apparently from 
water sprouts, and those trees shot right 
up. I choose a thornless bud. 
Mr. Reasoner—It is, of course, neces¬ 
sary that buds should be cut from the 
best part of the tree. Water sprouts 
are always thorny, and I think it would 
be best to save the budwood from the 
best wood on the tree. The best is none 
too good. 
