156 
FLORIDA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
garden, and I have raised quite a number 
of seedlings from it. 
The Neilgherry Lily (L. Neilgher- 
rense) is another species adapted to our 
soil and climate. Coming from the 
mountains of the Indian peninsula, where 
it grows in great abundance, in the rich 
vegetable mold of half-shady positions, it 
is not quite hardy here in Florida. It 
insists on pushing up its stems late in 
autumn and during winter, and therefore 
js easily damaged by one of our cold 
spells; though it can stand a few degrees 
of frost with impunity. The flowers are 
pure white and very fragrant. 
Wallich’s Lilv, also known as the Sul- 
phur Lily or the Himalayan Lily (Lilium 
sulphureum, syn. L. Wallichianum) is a 
native of the Himalayas, at an altitude 
of from 3,000 to 4,000 feet, growing in 
the same places with the tree-like Rhodo¬ 
dendrons (R. barbatum, R. arboreum, R. 
grande, R. Falconeri, etc.) which are 
awaiting introduction into our gardens; 
when in bloom it transforms the moun¬ 
tain sides into an earthly paradise. It is 
a vigorous grower, with large funnel- 
shaped flowers, rich yellow inside, tinted 
rosy and brown outside, of a rich fra¬ 
grance ; it produces small bulbs at the 
base of the leaves like L. tigrinum. I 
have had this lily in good condition for 
years; but a species of burrowing mouse, 
so common in Florida, destroyed these 
and many other Lily bulbs last winter. 
A few days ago I received another con¬ 
signment of bulbs of this and the next 
species from Burma. ^ This species, with 
some protection, has proved perfectly 
hardy near Boston. 
The Nepal Lily (L. Nepalense) is my 
special favorite. It grows wild in the 
western and central portions of the Hima¬ 
layas, and has recently been collected in 
quantity in Burma. The slightly fra¬ 
grant flowers have a purplish crimson 
tube, and the segments are broadly tipped 
with creamy white—a most beautiful 
color combination. Though growing at 
a higher altitude than the last-named 
species, it is much more delicate. 
For all the true Lilies I have found the 
following mode of culture the one most 
likely to give good results. Prepare a 
bed under half shade. Dig out the soil 
to the depth of three feet, and place on 
the bottom a layer of oak trunks. Cover 
this with a mixture of rich muck, leaf- 
soil, old cow-manure, along with some 
lime and a liberal quantity of crushed 
charcoal. Fill up to the rim. Mix thor¬ 
oughly, and dig the bed repeatedly be¬ 
fore planting. All the bulbs should be 
planted in November or early in Decem¬ 
ber. Surround each bulb (which should 
be covered with three inches of soil) 
with crushed charcoal, and press the soil 
firmly around it. When in full growth, 
I apply a small quantity of Painter’s Si¬ 
mon Pure garden fertilizer. This also 
helps to keep out the burrowing mice, 
which are so destructive to all the Lily 
bulbs. Never order Lily bulbs in spring 
—they are always a failure. I also sur¬ 
round all my choice Lily plants with 
broken bricks and stones. This helps to 
keep the soil cool, an essential point in 
Lily culture. The Lily will never flour¬ 
ish where the surface of the soil becomes 
hot. Almost all the Lilies are in full 
growth in our dry season. If the growth is 
in any way checked during this time, they 
invariably perish; with the exception of 
the L. longiflorum section. For this rea¬ 
son they must be kept well watered. 
THE GENUS GLORIOSA, OR CLIMBING LILIES 
In the foregoing I have pointed out 
that the true Lilies need careful attention, 
if success is to follow. It is quite differ- 
