166 
FLORIDA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
with a pure white edge; others are tipped 
with white. There are flowers mottled 
red and white, and a crushed strawberry 
color is by no means rare. I have ob¬ 
tained a few hybrids with a sulphur-yel¬ 
low ground color, lined and penciled with 
red. Some almost pure white ones with 
a narrow red band around the edge of 
the segments are particularly valuable and 
so are other white ones which are densely 
and minutely freckled with red. I have 
succeeded in raising quite a number of 
an almost pure white color, showing only 
a few traces of delicate red on the seg¬ 
ments. These are very effective. Many 
of my hybrids show the influence of H. 
Leopoldi in their form and color; having 
either a deep crimson, a scarlet or even 
a salmon ground color, with a white star 
and white-tipped segments. All are ever¬ 
green and of vigorous constitution. The 
leaves are from two to three feet long, 
and are of a deep green or glaucous green 
color. When grown in rich soil, they 
often exhibit deep reddish-brown or 
chocolate-colored tints. In many varieties, 
the entire lower part of the leaves shows 
a deep purplish-brown hue. 
This strain of Amaryllis is of very easy 
cultivation, but in order to do their best, 
they must have some attention. They 
grow as well in sunshine as in half-shade; 
on high pine land as well as on lower soif. 
On a bed a hundred feet long and three 
feet wide, three hundred bulbs can be 
easily planted. Two loads of cow-man¬ 
ure should be spread over this bed, and 
then it must be deeply spaded. Some clay 
mixed with the soil will prove beneficial. 
The bulbs should be planted in' such a 
way that the point of the neck is covered 
with at least one or two inches of soil. 
After having finished their flowering, 
and again in September or October when 
in full growth, they require either a top 
dressing or two inches of cow-manure or 
some good commercial fertilizer, either 
bone meal or, still better, Painter’s Simon 
Pure garden mixture. If in any way 
neglected after flowering, the bulbs be¬ 
come so weak that they do not flower the 
following season. These Amaryllis are 
gross feeders, but manures too rich in 
ammonia should be avoided. They rather 
require foods rich in phosphoric acid and 
potash. 
Hippeastrum Johnsoni is hardy as far 
north as Washington, if given some pro¬ 
tection. In the gardens of Raleigh, N. 
C. it is a rather common plant. The Or¬ 
ange Amaryllis is much more tender. My 
show hybrids I think will prove hardy in 
all the southern states bordering the Gulf 
of Mexico. They will not suffer by cold 
if the soil does not actually freeze. They 
may lose their foliage, but the bulbs will 
remain unhurt. A large bed of these 
Amaryllis in full bloom will outrival in 
beauty and brilliancy all the true Lilies, 
and most other plants. 
All the Amaryllis, and even the Cri- 
nums and particularly the Hymenocallis 
(Spider Lily), suffer a good deal from 
the ravages of the Amaryllis caterpillar 
and the lubber grasshoppers. The former 
often appears in countless numbers on the 
underside of the foliage. Here they can 
be easily killed. If left undisturbed they 
will soon defoliate the entire plant. When 
larger, they even damage the bulbs by 
eating into their centers. Usually on 
March 15, when the Amaryllis are in 
full bloom, the earliest hordes of lubber 
grasshoppers crawl out of the ground; 
at first small and brownish, then black 
with red stripes on their backs, which 
change into brighter yellow stripes a little 
later. They are ravenous feeders from 
