FLORIDA ,ST ATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
61 
the ground sufficiently to keep weeds and 
grass from choking them, we depend on 
the mowing machine entirely, and put 
part of the price of the extra labor saved 
into extra fertilizer. By this method we 
get along with less labor, have healthy 
trees and fruit of fine quality, and are 
troubled very little with rust mite. No 
doubt we shall have some able discussions 
later on the subjects of fertilizing and 
spraying, so I’ll not attempt to discuss 
them. Of course no iron clad rules can 
be laid down for the care of a grove, as 
soils and conditions are so varied, but 
my general rule would be, put land in 
best possible shape when trees are very 
young, and cultivate just as little as pos¬ 
sible thereafter. I am a great believer in 
humus, and think that one should get 
something growing to shade the ground 
as quickly as possible and later be con¬ 
verted into humus. As the trees get old¬ 
er and original supply is being exhausted, 
haul in trash, woods grass, etc., to take 
its place. When I mention muck, no 
doubt our worthy president and some 
others will smile, as I recently heard one 
of them allude to' it as “harmless amuse¬ 
ment,” but we are using muck with most 
excellent results, though I must say that 
we have a fair supply of exceptional 
muck. I have seen lots of muck which I 
think I might allude to as harmless amuse¬ 
ment, unless it had maiden cane in it, 
when I’d omit the “harmless.” I believe 
there is a growing tendency towards less 
cultivation, but fear that it is still being 
much overdone in many citrus groves 
People may criticise the apparent unkempt 
condition of your grove, but the know¬ 
ledge of the extra size of your bank ac¬ 
count will more than offset the stings of 
criticism, and after all, with citrus grow¬ 
ers, as with all others, the money is what 
we are after. If, in starting a grove, one 
is seriously handicapped for lack of time 
or funds, good results can be secured by 
grubbing circles in which to set the 
tree, and then gradually breaking up the 
remaining ground, getting it all broken 
by the time the tree has been set two 
years.* But, using what method you will, 
don't destroy any more humus-producing 
material than can possibly be helped,— 
the day will come when it will be sorely 
needed. If I were caring for a grove on 
very sandy soil, an Acme harrow 
would be the most severe tool that I’d put 
into it. As to varieties of citrus trees to 
set, confine yourself to few varieties, and 
those the very best suited to your locality. 
We are confining our plantings almost 
entirely to Pineapple and Valencia Late 
oranges and a selected strain of common 
Florida grapefruit, budded on sour or¬ 
ange stock. I find that under usual cbn- 
ditions a good thrifty year old bud on a 
two year old stock gives the best satisfac¬ 
tion. Large trees suffer a much greater 
shock when transplanted, and may re¬ 
quire more careful attention to get them 
well started off. Don’t plant sour stocks 
in grove form, to be budded later. This 
is too slow and a stand of buds -is too un¬ 
certain. 
DISCUSSION. 
Prof. Hume: We certainly ought to 
have a spirited discussion after this topic. 
Suppose you start the ball rolling, Mr. 
Hart. I think your ideas with regard to 
the use of ammonia are sufficient to get 
this discussion into- full swing. 
