76 
January 22, 
NEW METHOD OF BUDDING NUT TREES. 
Part 1. 
In both budding and grafting work, 
nut trees,—particularly pecans and wal¬ 
nuts,—are difficult subjects. Some years 
ago, I fell upon a plan of Spring-bud¬ 
ding which has lessened labor and given 
gratifying results. With the help of ac¬ 
companying illustrations it is hoped that 
the method can be explained so as to 
give any reader an opportunity to make 
an intelligent trial of it, if he wishes. 
The pith in the walnut and the all-round 
obstinacy of the pecan, have been hind¬ 
rances of long standing. 
Up-to-date horticulturists are putting 
French and Persian walnuts on Black 
walnut stocks. Here in Texas, in the 
latitude of Dallas, where sharp and sud¬ 
den freezes so often follow periods of 
warm weather in late Fall and Winter, 
the soft-shelled walnuts do no good on 
their own roots. But when worked upon 
Black walnut stocks, they have thus far 
withstood sudden climatic changes. We 
have also found that the large, thin- 
shelled pecans of the region skirting 
the Gulf Coast do better when budded 
on native trees than when transplanted 
on stocks grown from coast country nuts. 
My own experience and observation 
fully justify these statements. For in¬ 
stance, on receiving a lot of young wal¬ 
nut or pecan trees for transplanting, we 
always cut them back at least half way 
so as to. fortify them against the dry 
weather usually prevailing in late Sum¬ 
mer and early Fall. Now, if buds from 
the cut-off tops of these young walnuts 
and pecans, are worked upon native 
walnut and pecan stocks, they do alto¬ 
gether better than do the transplanted 
trees from other localities. 
Every one is supposed to know that 
the piece of young wood from which 
buds are taken is called the “Scion” and 
that the young tree into which the buds 
are set is called the “stock.” Let us now 
call the place into which the Spring bud 
is to be fitted a “bed.” It is made in this 
wise: Select a smooth place on the stock, 
preferably between two natural buds. 
Make a careful downward cut for three- 
quarters of an inch or a little more, 
taking a thin bit of wood along with the 
bark. Next, an equally careful horizon¬ 
tal and downward sloping cut severs 
the thin bit of bark and wood, which 
falls to the ground, and your “bed” is 
ready. At the bottom is a little notch 
that you will need later on. Go now to 
the scion; put your knife a quarter of an 
inch above a bud; make the same down¬ 
ward cut, taking a thin bit of wood along 
with the bark. Stop at a quarter of an 
inch below the bud; then make another 
sloping horizontal cut' just as was done 
in preparing the “bed” in the stock. This 
will give a bit of bark with a bud on it 
from the scion, an inch or less in length, 
and there will be a thin film of wood on 
the inner side. The piece will be in 
wedge shape at the lower end, so as to fit 
into the little notch made for it at the 
lower end of the “bed” in the stock, to 
which it is at once transferred. In Fig. 
a27 A shows scion from which a bud has 
been cut; C and D, front and side views 
of bud; B shows bed in stock ready for 
bud. If you have been careful, and have 
a correct eye, there is a good fit; other¬ 
wise not. If the bud it too short for the 
l*ed, it cannot be used—but if a little too 
long there is a remedy. It should, of 
course, be of the same width and thick¬ 
ness as the piece cut from the stock. If 
the bud-piece is a little too long, another 
cut may be made at the base if it does 
not fit well into the notch made in the 
stock. If there is a good fit at the bot¬ 
tom, and the bud is a little too long, it 
will reach above the upper end of the 
bed. In that case, a little more bark and 
wood may be cut from the stock, the 
bed made longer and a good fit secured 
nearly every time. 
When the bud-piece has been properly 
fitted into the bed prepared for it, the 
notch at the foot of the bed supports it 
while you are putting on the little patch 
s 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
of waxed cloth, which is to serve as a 
wrapper. The opening in the center of 
these wrappers is for' the purpose of 
giving light and air to the buds. When 
put on, the buds project through the eye¬ 
lets in the waxed wrappers, which are 
made large enough fully to cover 
wounds in both bud and stock. These 
little oblong squares of waxed cloth are 
to give protection from winds and rain. 
SCION BUD AND STOCK. Fio. a27. 
and they serve the purpose well. They 
adhere nicely to bud and stock and are 
tied on firmly with ordinary cotton twine 
strings, or thin strips of old cloth about 
a quarter of an inch in width, long 
enough and strong enough to bring bud 
and stock into close contact. When the 
buds are far enough apart, as is often 
the case with pecans, the ties may be 
wound on between them. Ordinarily, 
walnuts have but two buds at a joint 
and they are close together—too close 
for a string to pass between them. On 
the other hand, pecans frequently have 
three to four buds at a joint, oftentimes 
with a space of an eighth of an inch or 
more affording abundant room for the 
tie to pass between. In Fig. b27 A shows 
bud in place; B, waxed wrapper for 
covering; C, wrapper in place, ready for 
tie. 
In this method of budding, dormant 
scions are used. The budding wood is 
cut during Winter and kept dormant 
until used. Budding work may begin 
with the upward flow of sap in the 
stocks, and continue for 60 days and 
more. In this latitude, the switches in- 
BUD AND WAXED WRAPPER. Fig. b27. 
work is more successful when done in 
warm sunny weather. Several days of 
rain immediately following the setting 
of a lot of buds usually causes serious 
loss. After some practice, one grows 
expert to a degree in making buds fit 
perfectly into the beds; and modifica¬ 
tions of these methods will suggest them¬ 
selves to the thoughtful workman. 
CHARLES L. EDWARDS. 
PRODUCING WHITE GLADIOLI. 
I am glad to see that The R. N.-Y. is 
taking so much interest in this matter of 
securing a true white hybrid Gladiolus. 
The wonder to me is ‘ that a really white 
variety possessing large size, beauty and 
substance, along with vigor and prolificacy 
for natural increase, had not been secured 
long ere this. What I want to see is a 
Gladiolus as white as snow and as large, 
stately as well as delicate as those wonder¬ 
fully colored ones known as Pacha and 
Philadelphia, or even as fine as America, 
which is now our finest pink for general use, 
though I believe it will be only a year or 
two before this grand sort will lie out¬ 
classed by some of its hybrid children, 
which are now being grown by the hundreds 
of thousands in America and Europe. I 
have been experimenting some with Ameri¬ 
ca and a number of whites, but it will be a 
year or two before I have any blooming 
seedlings. I learn that Mr. P. O. Coblentz, 
the creator of Mrs. Francis King, one of 
the finest specimens of stately Gladioli we 
have, has brought out a white that will 
surprise the lovers of this grand flower. 
In a letter I have just received from Henry 
Field, I learn that Mr, Goblentz has called 
this new creation “Adelphia.” I believe he 
has another white that is also good ; one of 
his w’hites I had bloom with me the past 
Summer, and it was far superior to some 
of the so-called whites like Augusta, and 
May for instance. Many of the Gladioli 
called whites are in reality not white—■ 
they are more on the pink order. 
My practice in hybridizing these flowers 
is simple; it is much after the method de¬ 
scribed by Dr. Van Fleet in The R. N.-Y. 
I have learned that to secure an abundance 
of pollen it is well to remove the last four 
or five terminal buds from the flower stalk 
just before the lower one shows signs of 
expanding, and place it in water within 
doors. It is better for the remaining seed- 
pods that the top ones be removed; the 
remaining ones develop stronger seed, while 
at best those at the top, if allowed to de¬ 
velop. would he very poor at least—perhaps 
entirely worthless. It will be found that 
far more pollen will form and be available 
on the flowers that bloom within doors. I 
have had no trouble in getting my brush 
completely covered with pollen so that I 
could surely and safely transfer it to the 
pistil of the flower I wished to cross. 
For quite a spell during the time I de¬ 
voted to hybridizing the past year I re¬ 
moved the stamens of the field plants I was 
operating upon, but later I did not do so, 
as I used the "house” pollen early in the 
morning when -there was little danger of 
insects getting at the flowers or pollen drop¬ 
ping from the flower's stamens. I may have' 
taken some great chances in doing this, but 
where the operation was carried on to quite 
an extent, as I was then doing, I found it 
necessary to do so. Then I was able to con¬ 
vey such a large dose of fertilizing pollen to 
the flower I wished to hybridize, that I felt 
that I could not but secure satisfactory 
results in the great majority of cases. I 
have an apiary of some 70 colonies of bees 
within a few yards of where my main lot 
of select Gladioli were, so between the bees 
and my careful as well as haphazard meth¬ 
od, I think I have a fair chance of having 
some improved hybrid Gladioli two years 
from now that will abundantly reward me 
for my time and trouble. One beauty about 
this work is that one never knows what he 
is going to get, and what glory is going to 
accrue to him for his patience. 
I notice some of the writers state that that 
“White Lady” does not multiply with them. 
I had some last Spring, and they did not do 
well, yet not ten miles from here I saw a 
grower who had a fine lot of them and his 
soil is not as good as mine. White Lady is 
a fine white, but I don’t like its shape; 
there is great room for improvement. 
R. E. Huntington, who is specializing in 
Gladioli and a few other garden flowers in 
Northern Ohio, writes me that he and Mr. 
Werner, a noted hybridizer, who is asso¬ 
ciated with him, raised thousands of seed¬ 
ling Gladiolus America the past two years; 
during the season of 1909 a large number 
bloomed. So far several very interesting 
new colors of much merit are the result of 
their work. These will be tested further, 
and it is likely that more good sorts will 
be found among those yet to bloom. It 
seems strange that a fine Gladiolus so near 
in color to white as America is, should not 
more readily produce a perfect white. So 
far as I know, no grower has yet raised a 
white America—may be when the acme of 
perfection in this line is secured we shall 
have a true Gladiolus America with red, 
white and blue stripes, and possibly a few 
“stars” scattered in its throat. 
California. w. a. pryal. 
ADDTU TDrrC-5°,° 00 fine. straight, 
l JL/E, HiLCj healthy, stocky, well 
rooted trees. Leading 
varieties for Ohio, W. Va., Penn., New York State, 
Prices reasonable. SALESMEN WANTED. 
Outfit free. Address 
W. T. MITCHELL & SON, BEVERLY, OHIO. 
tended for use as budding wood may 
be kept dormant a long time by cutting 
them into lengths of 12 to 18 inches, and 
sticking the butts five or six inches into 
well-spaded ground at the north gable 
end of a building. They should not be 
put under the eaves, nor where the 
Spring sun will warm the ground where 
they have been stuck into the soil. 
It is well enough to guard against 
cutting out too much wood in making the 
bed in the stock, also in cuttisg out the 
buds. A good fit is more readily secured 
when the cuts are made shallow; 2nd it 
may be mentioned incidentally that the 
bud that fits is the bud that counts. The 
69Varieties. Also Small Fruits,Trees &e. Best Root¬ 
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PRICES BELOW ALL OTHERS 
I give a lot of new sorts for 
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