1910. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
349 
lias been that manure makes them 
wormy on the surface. April 2 made 
first planting of peas, between the po¬ 
tato rows; planted by line, opening row 
with a three-cornered hoe and covering 
with rake. Put out onion sets and 
planted parsnip seed between same. 
April 5 I planted three rows of beets, 
ridging the rows just a little before 
seeding, and on the 6 th completed the 
other two rows of beets, and made 
sowings of lettuce and planted pepper 
seed; also sot out the few strawberry 
plants in the row where marked. April 
7 planted one row of Peep O’Day 
corn; on the 9th planted celery seed 
in a patch by the back stoop. April 10 
planted one row Thos. Laxton peas, and 
green and wax beans, one-half row 
of each. April 17 planted Perkins Early 
Market corn, also set out some lettuce 
plants given me by a friend from his 
cold frame, and some that I grew in a 
box in the house myself; these last were 
put between the hills in the corn row. 
April 19 set out cabbage plants, which 
I bought, and planted second row of 
Thomas Laxton peas. May 3 planted 
one-half row of Country Gentleman 
corn, and one-half row of Improved 
Stratagem peas. May 11 planted cu¬ 
cumbers and squash, and on the 12 th 
set out June Pink and Ponderosa to¬ 
mato plants in the radish row, which 
was prepared previous to planting the 
radish seed. May 15 planted one-half 
row of Country Gentleman corn, and 
one-half row of peas. About this time 
I planted seed for late tomatoes, where 
shown beside cucumbers and squash. 
June 5 planted one-half row of corn, 
where I had used the spinach, and two 
weeks later finished planting the row 
of corn after spinach. May 7 I used 
the first radish and May 18 we used 
first lettuce by cutting the loose leaves, 
and July 2 was the date of my last sale 
of lettuce. The radishes were all so'd 
bv May 25, and I set lettuce plants 
between the tomato plants in the row. 
The radish maggot bothers the early 
radish some. June 12 we ate our first 
peas, and so continued for one month. 
June 19 we dined ipon our first wax 
beans, and sold first bunch of beets on 
June 16, and continued to sell beets un¬ 
til the 13th of November. On June 30 
dug our first potatoes and on July 8 I 
dug the last of them and put them in 
the cellar in baskets. 
As soon as the extra early peas were 
out of the way I set the late tomato 
plants where the peas had been, and also 
a row beside the earliest corn. The 
first corn I used on July 9. As soon 
as the corn was all off that row the 
stalks were removed to give me room 
to form the tomatoes. On July 17 I 
transplanted some beets to where let¬ 
tuce had been beside the other beet rows. 
On July 20 and 21 I planted spinach 
where beans had been. This made a 
very poor catch, and I replanted same on 
August 17, when it came up better. Au¬ 
gust 7 planted Winter radish where cab¬ 
bage had been, in drills one foot apart, 
starting next to lettuce row. August 4 
planted lettuce and radish beside late to¬ 
mato, Truckers’ Favorite; not a success, 
though I got a few radishes. 
On August 13 I set out three rows 
of celery plants where I had peas, using 
cow manure in the row for fertilizer. 
On August 20 , as the cucumber and 
squash vines were dead, I cleaned them 
off and planted Fall radish, Winter rad¬ 
ish and lettuce. The lettuce seed did not 
germinate, as it was too dry weather. 
On August 24 removed the stalks from 
the Perkins Early Market corn, plowed 
the space and planted three drills of 
Fall radish about 10 inches between 
drills. September 4 cleaned out first 
row of Country Gentleman cornstalks 
and planted two drills of Fall radish 
10 inches apart. I have thus far given 
you the time of planting all the different 
vegetables except some, like the Lima 
beans, eggplants, etc., which occupied the 
ground the whole season and did not af¬ 
fect any succession. In 1908 I made my 
plantings of peas about 15 days apart, and 
one planting would be used up some 
days before the next was ready. In 
1909 I made them 10 days apart and 
the peas were too near all ready at 
once. Differences in the seasons I think 
will explain that. I grow no peas that 
are said to be more than 24 inches in 
height, and use brush or stakes and 
string for them, as it is necessary when 
planting so close. I use poles for my 
Lima beans and stake all my tomato 
plants, using one stake to each plant, 
which should be driven in and the plant 
tied to it before it falls to the ground. 
I thus save room and get two rows in 
the space one would occupy on the 
ground, and none of my fruit decays 
from contact with the earth, as I would 
have to take the chance of its doing 
without the stakes. s. K. 
Camden Co., N. J. 
TREES FOR LINE FENCE PLANTING. 
T. J. L., Sullivan Co., N. Y.—I am In¬ 
tending to set out fruit trees on my seven- 
acre farm next Spring, and wish to ulilize 
the land along all the fences; line, barn¬ 
yard and chicken-yard fences. I want 
them partly for shade and wind-breaks on 
northwest, north and northeast exposures. 
Is not the upright habit of cherries and 
pears more suitable than apples for such a 
situation? Or can I plant any kind, only 
choosing hardy varieties and prune to the 
desired shape, not too branching? What 
varieties are especially suitable for north¬ 
ern exposures? The land is a good sandy 
loam, sloping toward the east 25 feet in 
400. 
A ns. —No fence trees other than cher¬ 
ries have paid much here, but any will 
add greatly to the value of a seven-acre 
place otherwise bare. The fence trees 
have a harder struggle for existence even 
though the ground is generally richer; 
hence I would use the vigorous Spy or 
Stark apples along the farm fences and 
Kieffer pears and Montmorency cherries 
along the barnyard and poultry fences. 
Sweet cherries will not stand Sullivan 
County cold as well as the sour varieties. 
Prune Kieffcrs severely yearly, but little 
pruning is needed for the cherries and 
Spys except at time of setting. Habit of 
growth is not a matter of as much con¬ 
sideration as the supply of plant food 
and moisture. If the inquirer leans to¬ 
ward the mulch method he can demon¬ 
strate cheaply with these fence trees. 
Other than Stark none of above list arc 
likely ever to need a scale spray. 
P. L. HUESTED. 
We are setting a good many trees 
around our fences, and in places where 
there is spare land not in use, and if 
they are where you can give them some 
care, and spray when needed, they may 
be made both ornamental and profitable. 
Burbank or Reinc Claude plums, or al¬ 
most any of the prunes do well around 
the barn, henhouse or in any odd places 
where a tree looks well, and they don’t 
need much care, only pruning when 
there are chickens. Sweet cherries do 
well along the fences, grow quite rapid¬ 
ly and I should think would make a 
good wind-break. We have Gov. Wood, 
Windsor, and Black Tartarian all set 
along the fences. We have about 75 
apple trees along the roadside (four to 
five. feet on one side) consisting of nine 
varieties. The Hubbardston and Ben 
Davis are giving us the most fruit and 
the most money, and they are fine-look¬ 
ing trees. I would advise T. J. L. to 
spend some time looking around in the 
neighborhood where he is going to lo¬ 
cate, and see what trees do well there. 
What might do well on the west bank 
of Cayuga Lake might not do well 
there. t. ii. king. 
New York. 
He should select fruit hardy and 
suitable to the location, this to be deter¬ 
mined by the kind now growing near 
him. Plums would be most suitable for 
chicken yards. The Damson is a staple 
plum and seller. Sweet cherries should 
be farther away from yards. Perhaps 
sour cherries would pay if they yielded 
well. I 11 some sections they do not. 
Apple trees are too large when grown up 
for yards. Pears are only profitable in 
certain localities. This is a matter of 
personal observation in the immediate 
vicinity. c. E. chapman. 
New York. 
FOR USE ON THE FARM 
) 
S-W Metalastic No. 2 
A metal protective paint all 
ready to use. Is made of a 
combination of Graphite and 
other materials and Pure Lin¬ 
seed Oil, and has greater dur¬ 
ability than many of the so- 
called graphite paints. It dries 
rapidly and gives a hard, im¬ 
pervious paint film that effect¬ 
ively protects the metal be¬ 
neath. Just the paint to use 
on the metal parts of wind¬ 
mills, farm machinery, metal 
roofs, spoutings, iron fences 
and, in fact, on all metal sur¬ 
faces exposed to the weather. 
S-W Buggy Paint 
will make your old buggy look 
like new. This is a Varnish 
Gloss Paint made to stand 
wear and tear and outside ex¬ 
posure. It colors and var¬ 
nishes at one operation and 
vehicles finished with it can 
be washed without injuring 
the gloss or durability of the 
paint. S-W Buggy Paint is a 
high quality product and 
should not be confused with 
the many cheap mixtures on 
the market. Comes in full 
measure cans; nine handsome 
colors. 
S-W Creosote Paint 
is a moderate priced paint, 
just the paint for painting farm 
buildings, outhouses, fences, 
bridges, etc., in fact for pro¬ 
tecting all kinds of rough 
wooden structures from the 
wear and tear of the weather. 
It is of splendid quality, 
spreads easily under the brush 
and wears well. It contains 
Creosote, which prevents the 
decay of the wood and has a 
very sanitary effect in build¬ 
ings where poultry, horses and 
stock are kept. 
Booklets that give you val¬ 
uable information sent free 
Write today for the one you need 
“Paints and Varnishes for 
the Farm” 
Full of valuable information as to the 
uses and economies of Paints and Var¬ 
nishes. 
“S-W Brighten Up Booklet” 
Full of suggestions of how to use paints 
and varnishes to decorate and improve 
the appearance of the interior of your 
home. 
Booklets on Insecticides 
Get larger crops, get more fruit and 
better fruit by the judicious use of insec¬ 
ticides. Write for pamphlets on the 
following insecticides and their uses: 
S-W Paris Green. 
S-W New Process Arsenate 
of Lead. 
S-W Lime-Sulfur Solution. 
S-W Bordeaux Mixture. 
Address all inquiries to 635 Canal Road, 
Cleveland, O. 
In Canada to 639 Centre St., Montreal. 
