1910. 
THE RUH4A.L NEW-YORKER 
6«9 
Ruralisms 
Propagating Pink-flowered Locust. 
E. C. Garrettsville, 0 .—Will you tell me 
how to propagate the Acacia or pink-flower¬ 
ing locust? On what kind of stock or root 
should it be top-grafted or budded? 
Ans. —This may refer either to the 
shrub Robinia hispida, with beautiful 
pink flowers, or to the .pink-flowered 
form of the tree, R. Pseudacacia, or 
black locust, which is also called acacia. 
The shrub R. hispida, more commonly 
called Rose acacia, does not often ma¬ 
ture seed, but the tree ripens seed 
freely, and these seeds may be sown in 
Spring or Fall. They germinate bet¬ 
ter if soaked in hot water before sow¬ 
ing. Both varieties can be grown from 
layers and root cuttings. The fine 
named varieties are grafted or budded, 
the common locust, R. Pseudacacia, be¬ 
ing used as a stock. This stock is used 
for the Rose acacia, R. hispida. This 
shrub often spreads freely from the 
root, forming many suckers. 
“Sunscald” on Young Apple Trees. 
(S'. I). C., Washington, D. C .—I notice in 
northern Vermont, where I am about to 
locate, a great deal of what they term 
sunscald in the apple orchards. The “scald" 
generally appears on the south side of the 
trees, and appears on thrifty otherwise 
healthy trees. What is the cause of this 
trouble and menace, for it seems to appear 
on young as well as old trees, and is ap¬ 
parently quite as prevalent in orchards in 
sod or open culture? 
Ans. —The trouble is evidently '‘sun- 
scald" which is caused by alternate freez¬ 
ing and thawing in late Winter. On warm 
bright days the reflected sun from the 
bright snow thaws the southwest side of 
the tree. Then at night or on colder days 
it freezes, and this thaw and freeze final¬ 
ly kills the bark on that side. It is a seri¬ 
ous trouble. Young trees should be head¬ 
ed low and protected during Winter by 
wrapping thin strips of wood or corn¬ 
stalks around the lower trunk. Tall or 
high-headed trees are hard to protect 
from this trouble. Send to the Vermont 
Experiment Station (Burlington) for in¬ 
formation on apple culture. 
Peach Trees in New England. 
F. II. E., Malden, Mass .—I write you for 
advice in regard to my peach orchard, set 
three years ago. The trees were loaded 
with fruit buds last Fall, and they were 
frozen last Winter, so there is to be scarce¬ 
ly a blossom. They have had clean culti¬ 
vation for three years, fertilized with hone 
and ashes two years, and basic slag and 
potash last year; cultivation so far this 
year. They made excellent growth, and 
are looking line. Shall I leave them alone 
this year, or cultivate again, and can I 
withhold fertilizer and not injure them 
this year? I have apple trees, set every 
30 feet, among them, which have also 
made excellent growth. I have spent so 
much for fertilizer and cultivation that I 
am inclined not to spend more until I see 
something coming. 
Ans. —In answer to F. H. E. my plan 
with these trees would be to head the 
long central branches and any that are 
outgrowing the others beyond a good 
symmetrical form quite severely, but not 
cut back the small slender laterals. I 
would cut out entirely any branches 
growing so closely as to smother the 
leaves or other branches, yet leaving a 
fairly close head. I would cultivate the 
land till August 1, then sow peas and 
barley, and let this lie on the ground un¬ 
til the next April or May, and if the buds 
are not again killed next Winter would 
look for a large and perfect crop of fruit. 
A year from this time or a little earlier I 
would head back or shorten in all small 
laterals, cutting out entirely some of the 
weakest if too thick. In case of large 
main branches being too thick I would 
cut out here and there one. As good 
peach trees can be grown in Massachu¬ 
setts as in any of the New England 
States, but we cannot reckon on more 
than an average of three crops in five 
years on account of winter-killing of the 
buds. For the next year I would use 
basic slag and sulphate of potash and a 
little nitrate of soda if a crop of fruit is 
se t- S. T. MAYNARD. 
Birds Nipping Garden Vegetation. 
It. A. G., Frankfort , Ind .—-What is the 
best method or suggestion to keep birds 
from eating the young shoots of peas? 
Ans. —Cover the young plants with 
netting; when they become tougher the 
birds are not likely to bother them. We 
judge that English sparrows are the 
culprits, as nipping off pea shoots is a 
favorite trick with them. In England 
it is common practice to cover young 
peas and other plants, as well as trees 
in fruit, with fishnet; there is a regular 
market for netting for this purpose. 
Sometimes the birds can be kept away 
by running strings along the rows, at¬ 
tached to sticks about a foot high, and 
fastening bits of white rag at intervals 
along the string; the fluttering rags cause 
the birds to suspect a trap. Sometimes 
the sparrows get the habit of nipping off 
flower buds, apparently just for fun, 
as they do not eat them, Crocuses and 
other early Spring flowers suffering 
greatly from their depredations. This 
is a great nuisance, as a flower bed is 
not beautiful when shrouded in fishnet. 
We find the family cat a satisfactory 
garden policeman against sparrows; she 
does not appear to catch any, but keeps 
them from doing much damage. 
What About the Easter Pear? 
E. M. E., Grand Junction, Col .— QuJ 
page 383 I noticed an article by Mr. Van 
Deman on the pollination of the Bartlett 
pear. lie says the Faster is the best 
variety to pollenize them. 1 would like 
to ask Mr. Van Deman or anyone else 
what they know of the Faster pear as a 
commercial variety, and if the Faster is 
not a good commercial variety, what would 
be the best commercial variety to plant 
with the Bartlett? As I intend to plant a 
10-acre pear orchard, principally Bartlett, 
a little information on the subject would 
be of great benefit. 
Ans. —The Easter pear is fairly good 
as a market variety, but it is not so good 
a bearer as some others. Owing to its 
very late keeping it brings a good price 
in the market. Comice is a better kind 
for both orchard and market, and if it 
will prove to be a good pollenizer for 
Bartlett, it would be the variety to inter¬ 
plant for that purpose. But of this very 
little or nothing is known, so far as I 
have heard, and this matter needs testing 
out. There would be no mistake made in 
planting trees of the Comice in Colorado 
orchards and it might be the very thing 
to pollinate the Bartlett. A row or a 
tree of Easter could be set occasionally 
as a matter of certainty of pollination. 
Bees would act as the agent and doubt¬ 
less do the crossing effectually. 
H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
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