>1910. 
TH EC RURAI 
NEW-YORKER 
Thrashing Crimson Clover Seed. 
D. J. L., Winston-Salem, N. G .—We have 
a few acres of Crimson clover that we 
would like to save seed from. Will you 
advise us how best to manage this? Can 
it he thrashed out and saved successfully 
with an ordinary grain thrashing machine? 
About what is the average yield per acre? 
Ans. —An ordinary grain thrasher 
would simply knock the seeds in their 
haulms off the stems, but would not 
hull them. A regular clover hulling 
machine is necessary. The same kind 
of a huller used to thrash Red clover 
will handle Crimson—but you must use 
■different screens. In Delaware the 
average yield of Crimson seed runs 
from seven to 10 bushels. 
Flies and Horse Manure. 
G. E. M, Eagles Mere, Pa .—What can 1 
use on a manure pile from horse stable, 
where fresh manure is being thrown on sev¬ 
eral times a day, to prevent harboring and 
breeding of flies? 
Ans. —Lime is the best thing to pre¬ 
vent flies from breeding in horse ma¬ 
nure, but it is the worst thing for the 
manure. It will drive off the ammonia. 
Better haul the manure every day and 
spread and plow it under, or make a 
fly-tight shed with fine wire screens at 
windows and door. Wheel the manure 
into this shed as fast as made and keep 
the door shut tight. This will keep the 
flies away from it. Chloride of lime 
is also used on the manure. There can 
be no doubt that flies breed in horse 
stables. In one case 1.200 flies in dif¬ 
ferent stages were traced to one pound 
of manure. The total round of life of 
one fly is about 10 days, and the in¬ 
dividuals average about 120 eggs. This 
shows how fast they increase, and horse 
manure is their favorite breeding place. 
Handling Manure in the South. 
L. C., North Carolina .—We have 40 to 
GO loads of cow manure still in the stable. 
It has accumulated in such a large pile 
that we must now get it out to make room 
for the cattle. We do not want to use it 
until next Fall. How shall we keep it so 
as lo save loss of plant food in this warm 
climate? 
Ans. —This manure should not have 
been left in the stable so long. Unless 
it is handled carefully there will be con¬ 
siderable loss of ammonia during the 
Summer. Haul the manure out to some 
level place, and make a heap about eight 
feet wide and five feet high—as long as 
needed. Start with a thick layer of 
pine straw or forest leaves and pile the 
manure on top. This layer of vege¬ 
table matter will save loss from leach¬ 
ing. Stamp the manure down hard, and 
for each ton scatter evenly through 75 
pounds or more of acid phosphate. As 
the heap is made up put in two more 
layers of leaves, straw, sods or similar 
waste. Keep it well stamped down and 
leaye the top hollow or dish-shaped to 
hold water. If the moisture evaporates 
too fast, cover the heap all over with a 
six-inch thick layer of soil. The object 
of all this is to prevent the manure from 
drying out and heating. The acid phos¬ 
phate not only adds phosphoric acid, 
which the manure needs, but will make 
a chemical combination with the am¬ 
monia and hold it. 
Radish Maggots. 
O. J. G., Ephrata, Pa .—I would like to 
raise radishes for market, and a kind of 
small worm peculiar to my soil infests 
them so badly that the greater part of 
them are not fit for sale. Could you toll 
me how to destroy them, or what kind of 
soil does not have them? 
Ans. —This is the same maggot that 
infests cabbages. It is more difficult to 
treat with radishes, because it punctures 
the fleshy root, making channels through 
it, bevond- the reach of insecticides. 
However, much benefit is derived from 
fertilizing with the following mixture: 
700 pounds nitrate of potash, 1,000 
pounds ground rock, 300 pounds nitrate 
of potash ; apply at rate of 500 pounds 
per acre. Put this on soon after the 
plants are up, or when the Paves are 
about an inch long, before or during 
a rain. The application made at this 
time seems to reach the maggots just 
when they are hatching, applied later, 
when they have entered the radishes, it 
is useless. The eggs are laid in little 
masses on the surface of the ground, 
near the plants; they are white, slender 
and cylindrical, nearly one-sixteenth of 
an inch long, and can be plainly seen on 
close examination. When these eggs 
are seen, apply the fertilize 1 *, or ground 
tobacco may be applied over the rows 
as soon as the plants arc up. Practice 
rotation of crops, and do not sow rad¬ 
ishes on ground which had been used 
for cabbage the previous season. 
Harvest Work in the West. 
F. B., East Stroudsburg, Pa .—Is there an 
opportunity for young men to obtain work 
in the harvest field in the West? Myself 
and a friend would like to go there for the 
Summer. I am a school teacher, but have 
always lived on the farm. Where would It 
be advisable to go? What do they pay and 
what would it cost to go there? 
Ans. —In past years there has been 
plenty of work in western harvest fields. 
No doubt there will be this season. 
Young men often go to Missouri and 
Southern Kansas early in June and fol¬ 
low the harvest north as far as Dakota 
or even into Canada. With harvesting 
and thrashing they can often work 
until October or November. Wages 
usually paid are $2.50 per day in Kansas 
and a little more in the northern States. 
The work is hard and hours are long, 
but after you get hardened to it a man 
with a good constitution can follow it 
without trouble. The amount of money 
you can make will depend on the 
weather. In a wet season there is less 
work, and the labor is more disagree¬ 
able. Reports thus far indicate a lighter 
grain crop than usual. The cost of 
travel will depend on how you go. Many 
workers travel by freight at a low figure. 
Others get cheap transportation from 
employment agencies. In June or later 
these agencies are usually opened in Chi¬ 
cago, Omaha and Kansas City, and near¬ 
ly every town of any size has some head¬ 
quarters for hiring help. Once get into 
the grain country in harvest time and 
you will not have much trouble in find¬ 
ing work. Hon. F. D. Coburn, Topeka, 
Ivan., is Secretary of Agriculture. He 
can refer you to places where you can 
get full information. 
Peach Trees Hurt By Borers, 
P. V., Oxford, N. J .—I have a few peach 
trees that are not in good condition. I 
put out 300 seven years ago. I mulched 
them with about seven tons of stable ma¬ 
nure ; three years later I put on about nine 
tons; two years ago I gave them one-half 
ton kainit and my trees were looking well. 
Then I was advised not to bother with 
the borers, that I did the trees more harm 
with the knife than the borers did. This 
came from one of the largest peach grow¬ 
ers in our county, and as I was very 
much overworked at the time I was foolish 
enough to neglect my trees for one year. 
The outcome is more than half dead trees. 
What shall I do with the others? They 
have set some fruit. Do you think It 
would pay to fertilize? If so, what would 
you use and how much per tree as they 
are so scattered I don’t wish to go over all 
the .ground. I have a bag on hand that is 
guaranteed 1.G5—8—>10. Would that be 
good? I have two bags of cabbage ferti¬ 
lizer, 1.05—8—7. What would you do 
with those trees? 
Ans. —We had much the same experi¬ 
ence with one block of trees. We would 
now pull back the mulch and dig up a 
space two feet out from the tree—with 
spade or hoe. Look at the trunks, and 
if any borers arc left kill them. Put 
the mulch back over the hoed space and 
use two to three pounds per tree of 
either of the mixture you mention. The 
one with 10 per cent potash is best. 
Scatter this fertilizer out as far as the 
branches extend. Get after the borers 
in July and again in September or 
October. We do not know any better 
way of fighting borers than to dig them 
out. Be careful not to cut across the 
trunk, but run the knife down following 
the borer‘s track. Feed and mulch the 
tree and get all possible growth. Then 
dig out the borers and, next Spring, cut 
the tree back. 
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601 
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