1910. 
THE RURAb NEW-YORKBK 
861 
Ruralisms 
SHIELD-BUDDING THE MANGO. 
Shield-budding of the mango has been 
with partial success practiced in Florida 
for at least six years by experimenters 
in the propagation of this fruit; the 
writer first experimented with this 
method with some success in 1904. The 
percentage-of successful buds was, how¬ 
ever, so low that he did not then feel 
justified in calling this method to the 
attention of the public, and the experi¬ 
mental work was temporarily suspended. 
However, experimentation has been con¬ 
tinued by a few men interested in the 
problem, in some instances meeting 
with remarkable success. The success 
achieved by Mr. Orange Pound, Cocoa- 
nut Grove, Fla., deserves special men¬ 
tion, not only for the difficulties that 
he has successfully surmounted, but for 
the public-spirited way in which he has 
placed his data at the disposal of the 
writer for publication for the informa¬ 
tion of other mango-growers. It is not 
too much to say that Mr. Pound’s dis¬ 
covery marks an epoch in the mango in¬ 
dustry, not only in Florida, but in other 
parts of the world. Mr. Pound recently 
obtained, with this method, over 85 per 
cent of healthy trees among a lot of 300 
plants budded, a most gratifying result. 
Success depends on the prime condi¬ 
tion of the stock plant and that the sap 
is flowing freely; the buds should be 
selected from well-matured wood that is 
still green and smooth, of the first, sec¬ 
ond and third flushes from the terminal 
bud, and cut rather large, three to five 
centimeter long (one and a quarter to 
SIIIELD-BUDDING THE MANGO. Fig. 376 
nearly two inches). The lower, thick 
part of the leaf stem at the bud should 
not be trimmed off but allowed to re¬ 
main on the bud until it is shed volun¬ 
tarily. If the leaf-stem or petiole as it is 
also called, is cut too near the bud, fungi 
frequently gain entrance through the 
wound and destroy the bud. It is pos¬ 
sible that the leaves can to advantage be 
trimmed off the bud-wood while it still 
remains on the tree, and the bud-wood 
be used after the petioles have dropped 
and the leaf scars are well healed. It 
appears to be equally satisfactory to 
push the buds up or downward. To 
facilitate the insertion of the bud, it is 
well to trim off the edge of the horizon¬ 
tal cut. In tying the bud, allow the 
remnant of the petiole to stick out be¬ 
tween the strands of the tape and pro¬ 
tect it and the bud from the sun and 
rain with a square piece of Wax cloth 
held in place by one of the strands of 
the tape above the bud. It is essential 
that the buds should be inserted at a 
point in the stock where the bark is of 
about the same age as the bud-wood, 
i. e., green and smooth, and the wofk done 
when the plant is in flush. When the 
union has been effected, which will be 
in the course of t\yo or three weeks, the 
stock should be pruned off about six 
inches above the bud. The buds are 
sometimes very dilatory about starting, 
and in order to force them out the 
plants should, after the buds have taken, 
frequently be gone over and all adven- 
tive buds rubbed off. 
In top-working old seedling, trees 
the same principle obtains. Part of the 
main branches are then pruned off to 
one to two feet from the trunk and the 
resulting sprouts are budded and treated 
in the manner already described. As 
the buds increase in size the native top 
is gradually removed; care should be 
taken, however, not to prune the tree 
too severely at one time, as it is then 
apt to become permanently injured and 
die from such treatment. 
In, to some extent, employing another 
method called by the originator “slice¬ 
budding” matured bud-wood sufficiently 
old to have turned brownish or gray¬ 
ish, is also used in top-working seedling 
trees planted at stake. The back of the 
part of the stock where the bud is in¬ 
serted, or more correctly placed, should 
exhibit the same character. For all prac¬ 
tical purposes this is identical with the 
chip-budding method employed in the 
propagation of pecans. The work is per¬ 
formed by cutting a slice or chip of 
bark and wood from the stock in the 
same manner as if the removed part was 
to be used as a bud; a shield bud just 
large enough to make a snug fit is now 
cut from the budstick and placed on the 
cut and tied in the usual way. In using 
either of the methods of budding de¬ 
scribed above, the stock should at the 
time of budding be girdled six to nine 
inches above the bud. 
Mr. J. E. Higgins, horticulturist of 
the Hawaii Agricultural Experiment 
Station, Honolulu, Hawaii, in Bulletin 
20 of that Station, describes a method of 
shield-budding the mango that has re¬ 
cently been tried with success there. 
An unusually large bud, three to 3^2 
inches long, is recommended, and' that 
the buds be inserted on well-matured 
stock where the bark is rough and 
brownish, using bud-wood of the same 
character. v. j. Webster. 
Washington, D. C. 
Field Peas and Lime. 
Which variety of peas is most bcneQclal 
to soil and crops when sown with oats to 
be turned under when preparing the soil 
for Alfalfa? When is the best time to sow 
lime, before or after plowing? Is it best 
to plow peas in and in a few days after 
harrow well and sow oats, or sow both 
after plowing? s. e. l. 
The Canada field pea is best for sewing 
with oats. In the South the cow pea is 
grown as a manorial crop, but it does not 
do so well at the North. This cow pea is 
really a bean and cannot stand cold 
weather. It would surely fail if seeded 
with oats. The cow pea is for hot weather 
—the Canada pea for cool. The best time 
to use lime is after plowing. Sow on the 
furrows and harrow In. We prefer to plow 
or disk the peas in first and then sow the 
oats and harrow. 
Zinc Coated Brand 
NAILS 
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M. I.F.C0. 
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Read this Evidence of Durability 
In 1880, Mr. M. P. Harding, of 
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Zinc Coated Iron Cut Nails. In July, 
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The nails were as free from rust as on 
the day they were driven, although the 
house stands within three-quarters of a 
mile of the seashore. The cut shows 
some of the nails. 
We make the same nails today 
we made then. 
Why put 10-year nails in 
30-year shingles? 
Write to us for Samples and Prices 
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apples. I have less scale and finer foliage than ever before." 11ISA.SON : Five years consecutive use of 
66 
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