1910. 
THE RURAIj NEW-VOKKEU 
©Ol 
Ruralisms 
Ailing Fear 'Free. 
E. B., Stroudsburg, Pa. —I have a Kieffer 
pear tree that always bore well and has 
been very healthy, coming out this year In 
blossom, and is full of pears now. It has 
commenced to turn yellow and does not 
grow. I have dug around trunk and 
washed it off with soap but it does not im¬ 
prove. Tree is about 10 years old. What 
can I do for it? 
Ans. —What may be the trouble with 
this pear tree is more than I can tell. It 
may be that something has injured the 
roots and the failure to grow and ripen¬ 
ing of the leaves prematurely may be 
from this cause. If the tree is in town 
it may be that gas has escaped from a 
pipe in the ground near the roots and 
injured them. Or some one may have 
thoughtlessly poured brine on the ground 
near the tree. The union with the stock 
may be imperfect. If it is free from all 
these possibilities then there may have 
been some kind of spray mixture applied 
that was injurious to the top or leaves. 
All that I can see to do is to treat the 
tree well and wait its behavior another 
year. It may die and thus make room 
for another tree. I would plant a Seckel 
or some other good pear instead. 
Treatment of Cherry Orchard. 
H. T., Sodus, Mich. —Will you advise me 
as to the best method of taking care of a 
18-year-old cherry orchard that has not 
been sprayed or cultivated for three or 
four years? The soil is a stiff clay and 
the trees are now in a heavy June grass 
sod. The foliage is badly injured with 
shot-hole fungus. 
Ans. —The sod should be turned over 
at once with the plow very shallow and 
allowed to rot until Spring. Then 
some of the disk harrows should be 
used until the sod is well pulverized. 
After that is quite completely done any 
shallow cultivator may be used at such 
intervals as will keep the surface of 
the soil mellow. Spraying with the 
lime-sulphur wash should be done be¬ 
fore the buds start in the Spring and 
after that time the new iron-sulphide. 
This is about to supersede Bordeaux 
Mixture because it does not injure the 
tender foliage and is fully as effective 
as a fungicide. Cherry leaves are very 
subject to the shot-hole fungus, and 
should be sprayed as a preventive 
measure as often as may seem necessary 
to keep them clear of it. 
Grafting Black Walnut Trees. 
C. It., Ilulberton, N. Y. —I have a row of 
about 700 Black walnut trees from walnuts 
planted this Spring. They are from six 
inches to a foot high. I wish to bud or 
graft them to English walnut. IIow shall 
I proceed? Would it be a good plan to 
die under and cut tap roots? Shall I take 
my scions or buds from two trees bought 
from a nursery, or shall I seek some known 
bearing tree? When shall I transplant? 
Ans. —For several years past I have 
been experimenting with the propagation 
of walnut trees, and have had varying 
results. Sometimes I succeeded well, 
and again the same kind of effort turned 
out badly. I suppose it was owing to the 
condition of the stocks or scions. I have 
done best by early Spring grafting in the 
nursery rows just below the surface of 
the soil. The cleft and tongue method 
proved about alike in success and failure. 
The work was done in Louisiana. Re¬ 
cently a friend in Maryland, Prof. C. P. 
Close, told me that he had succeeded 
very well by bench-grafting walnut seed¬ 
lings. He dup up the seedlings, tongue- 
grafted them in February and set them 
in nursery rows at once. My sugges¬ 
tion to A. H. P. is to take up the seed¬ 
lings next November, pack them in damp 
sphagnum in a very cool cellar until 
the first sign of Spring, and then splice- 
graft them as is done with apple root- 
grafts, and plant them in nursery rows 
at once. I would get the scions from 
trees that are hardy and known to bear 
good nuts. If the young trees from the 
nursery have stood long enough to prove 
their hardiness and are of some good 
variety, they should be safe to cut scions 
from, but I would prefer them from a 
bearing tree, if the variety is a good one. 
Trouble with Clapp's Favorite. 
P. C., Wyncote, I'a. —I have a strong, 
healthy Clapp’s Favorite, pear tree, IB 
years old and nearly 20 feet high. It 
has borne little until this year when It 
had a medium crop. The fruits are large 
and fair to look at, but become rotten 
at the core before becoming soft on the 
outside. Is this a characteristic of the 
variety, or would it be better to pick them 
a week or 10 days before ripe, as we do 
with Fall and Winter pears? The tree is 
growing in grass on a lawn, and in a 
rather sheltered position from the winds, 
and has sunshine more than half the day. 
Ans. —This is a natural fault of the 
Clapp pear. The fruit should be gath¬ 
ered before it is fully mature and al¬ 
lowed to ripen in storage. Even then 
there will be difficulty with the pears 
becoming too soft about the core. 
H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Mulched Trees and Mice. 
N. O., Newington, Conn. —Much is printed 
regarding the mulching of trees, the cutting 
of whatever grows on the land allotted for 
orchard uses. Is this mulch left around the 
roots during the Winter months? If so 
why would it not be a place to conceal all 
sorts of vermin, but more especially the 
mouse? Mice will burrow and run around 
under heavy snows and eat the bark of 
bushes and trees in severe Winters. With 
a coat of mulch, then snow on top of that, 
would not the danger be very much in¬ 
creased? Would not the mulch alone harbor 
these little pests to the detriment of an 
orchard even without any snow? 
Ans. —No, the mulch should not be 
left around the tree during Winter un¬ 
less the trunk is protected. The 
mulch certainly will harbor vermin, 
which will gnaw the tree. We go over 
our trees in November and fork the 
mulch away, making a small mound of 
soil or coal ashes around the base of 
the trunk. Mice seldom cross bare 
ground to attack a tree. They will 
work under the mulch, or under the 
snow, but rarely out in the open. In 
some cases the trees are protected by 
wrapping line wire netting, slats or 
even cornstalks around them. 
Peach Seedlings Affected by Drought. 
B., Virginia. —The bark is tough on 
100,000 unbudded peaches. What is the 
best thing to do since the drought con¬ 
tinues? The trees for this Fall sales are 
in line shape, however. 
Ans. —If your Virginia reader has 
100,000 unbudded peach seedlings that 
have stopped growing because of the 
drought, he must be an inexperienced or 
careless nurseryman. Peach seedlings 
and budded nursery trees thrive and 
grow better during hot dry weather 
than they do during cold and wet 
weather. The necessary thing for him 
to have done was to have kept them 
well cultivated, and thus formed a dust 
mulch and retained sufficient moisture 
in the soil to have kept his trees grow¬ 
ing. It may be the drought has been 
broken by this time in his location, and 
thus started growth in his seedlings 
again. If this be the case he should 
cultivate his seedlings and bud them 
as fast as he can. I have known buds 
to do fairly well budded as late as Oc¬ 
tober 15 here in New Jersey. If frost 
keeps off he will have time to bud as 
late as that in Virginia. Cultivate at 
once; if dry run a fine harrow or Tron 
Age cultivator once or twice a week. 
After cultivating and as soon as the 
seedlings show signs of growth and the 
bark to peel, put all the experienced 
budders he can get to work, budding 
them. Peach seedlings not budded the 
first year are worthless brush for me, 
and if not budded this Fall better root 
them out and burn them. If left over 
another year they would be too heavy 
and coarse to bud to make good trees, 
and if cut back next Spring and then 
budded they would not make satisfac¬ 
tory trees. I try to start growth by cul¬ 
tivation before frost and bud even if it 
is late, as long as the sap flows and the 
bud can be put in the tree. Otherwise 
root them out and throw away. Seed¬ 
ling trees are no good to the orchardist. 
E. S. BLACK. 
“For the Land’s Sake, use Bowker’s 
Fertilizers; they enrich the earth and 
those who till it.”— Adv, 
/.A, 
I IT 
The Best 
Painting Job< 
f^re Done iirtheFall 
■i<ur 
"V/ - OU can get better results 
when you paint your build¬ 
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and so is the wood. This ena¬ 
bles the paint to adhere better, 
for it is moisture which causes 
blisters. Also in the fall there is 
an absence of insects and dust, so that the paint 
dries clean and smooth. 
Your house is well protected for winter, as the 
changes in temperature work no harm if the paint 
is made of 
Pure White Lead 
(“Dutch Boy Painter” Trade-Mark) 
To “just paint” isn’t sufficient. White- 
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Look for the “Dutch Boy Painter” on the keg 
Send for our "Dutch Boy Paint Adviser” No. 
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showing' dainty color effects obtained with 
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yin iffici in each of the following cititss 
New York Bolton Buffalo Cincinnati 
Chicago Cleveland St. Loui» 
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(National I/rad A Oil Co. 
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• r aar. 
j/A 
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J .11 Iwiriui uaiatZ 
IB 
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THE ECLIPSE j 
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WE KNOW THAT PRATT’S 
66 
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'octivoly than Lime-Sulphur, for less money and loss labor—five years of proofs, 
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Send tor Booklet, “Orchard Insurance.’ 
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