114 
THE CULTIVATOR. 
Arm?, 
THE ORCHARD AND THE GARDEN, 
Of all the varieties of the apple which have lately 
been brought to notice, probably none is destined to 
become more and deservedly popular than the Hawley 
or Dowse. This and the Fall Pippin, are nearly the 
only apples of'the largest size, which prove of first rate 
quality, or which are not cultivated chiefly for their 
showy appearance. It is superior to the Fall Pippin in 
the fairness of its fruit, and is generally regarded as 
preferable to that fine variety, by those acquainted with 
both. 
Its precise origin appears at present to be unknown. 
Its cultivation is chiefly confined to Tompkins county, 
and the south part of Cayuga county, in western New- 
York. Specimens were exhibited at the State Fair at 
Auburn, by E. C. Frost, of Catharine, Chemung Co. 
It is said that the original name was Hawley, but was 
changed to that of Dowse, from the name of the grafter 
who introduced it, and by which it is now generally 
known. 
Description .—Very large, nearly round, slightly flat¬ 
tened, somewhat irregular, and slightly ribbed ; yellow¬ 
ish green, usually passing to pale yellow when ripe; 
stalk slender, three-quarters to an inch long, set in a 
wide deep cavity, and usually scarcely projecting to' the 
rim; calyx in a narrow and rather deep, regular, and 
somewhat furrowed depression, though sometimes but 
slightly sunk; flesh of fine texture, very tender, sub¬ 
acid, and of excellent flavor. It ripens from the first to 
the middle of autumn. The tree in the nursery is of 
moderate growth, but in the orchard it forms a well- 
spread and good shaped tree, and produces good crops 
every year. T. 
MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT TREES, &c. 
Seasonable Hints. 
Orchard Caterpillars. —Take them early, and 
their destruction is easy; let them flourish for a while, 
and the labor is greatly increased. Early in the month, 
young shoots, and near their 
extremities; and at a few 
feet distance appear like small 
knobs on the branches. They 
are now quickly clipped off 
and burned; every one thus 
removed preventing a large 
nest of caterpillars. As soon 
as the buds begin to open, 
they hatch; and remaining 
for a few days on their small 
nests, give them a conspicu¬ 
ous downy appearance. At 
this period they may be easi¬ 
ly destroyed, but soon after, 
if left, they increase rapidly 
in size and in their depreda¬ 
tions. 
Preparing for Trans¬ 
planting. —Those intending 
to set out new orchards or 
fruit gardens, should have 
the ground well prepared in 
season, by digging ample 
holes, and in preparing the 
soil in the best manner. Let 
the holes be six or seven feet 
across, and all the outer por¬ 
tions, or those not to be in immediate contact with the 
roots, filled beforehand, if convenient, with old rotted 
manure thoroughly mixed with soil. This will give the 
young trees a vigorous start, until they come into bear¬ 
ing; and in the mean time the whole ground should be 
gradually enriched by manuring the crops. It would 
be still better, if the ground for the young orchard could 
be well prepared for two years previously, in the fol¬ 
lowing manner :—First, run the subsoil plow as deeply 
as possible, to loosen the soil for the entrance of the 
common plow for trench-plowing. This will work the 
manure deeply below the surface, which the subsoil plow 
will not do, and will intermix thoroughly surface soil, 
subsoil, and manure. Two years of such treatment, 
with crops of carrots or other roots, will bring the land 
to the finest order, and even one year would be emi¬ 
nently useful. 
Young Fruit Trees, which lack vigor of growth 
from too poor a soil, should be stimulated with a good 
coating of old manure spread round them and spaded in 
as soon as the frost leaves the ground. All fruit trees, 
except of the largest size, which do not stand in ground 
kept constantly cultivated by the hoe, should have the 
soil for several feet, kept well spaded round them. 
Soapsuds, especially for peach trees, are fine. 
Trees in Bud, which were inserted last summer, 
should be headed down to the bud, that it may grow 
freely by receiving all the sap. To cause the new shoot 
to grow straight, leave two or three inches of the stock 
above it, to which the shoot is to be closely tied, to re¬ 
main till mid-summer, when the stump is to be pared 
closely to the bud. Many buds are lost by heading 
down too closely in the spring,—the drying of the wood 
below the fresh wound causing their death. 
Raspberries. —These should be pruned as early in 
spring as practicable. All the old stems, and all the 
smaller young shoots should be cleared away to the 
ground; and about half a dozen largest stems of last 
year’s growth reserved for bearing. Their upper ex- 
