TLI 1-0 RURAL 
NEW-VORKER 
January 17, 
The Home Acre. 
Peas and Radishes. 
I can raise everything but radishes and 
table peas in my flower and vegetable 
garden. The bugs and worm get on 
these when the peas are 2% inches high, 
and they fall over. How can I treat to 
raise good healthy peas? Worms get on 
radish roots, What can I do for them? 
East Cleveland, O. J. d. l. 
The insect referred to as attacking 
your peas is probably the pea aphis, 
which of late years has become very 
troublesome in many sections of the 
country, particularly where peas are 
grown in large acreages from year to 
year. The remedy most largely used to 
combat them is kerosene emulsion spray, 
which can be purchased at any of the 
leading seed houses. Use according to 
directions. The following will also prove 
effective: Fir tree oil soap, lemon oil 
soap, potash, fish-oil soap, or strong soap¬ 
suds applied as a spray, at intervals of 
a week or 10 days. I would advise that 
you change this location for planting 
yearly, and use - only well-rotted manure 
in moderate quantities, and if the soil is 
light and disposed to dry out quickly, 
to firm the soil well in the rows with 
species of bark disease, either bred within 
the injured bark or communicated from 
some other source. The few worms men¬ 
tioned are in no way responsible for the 
injury; they are simply an aftermath. 
The only thing to be‘done for the trees 
still alive is to cut out all the dead bark 
at once, cutting at least one-fourth of 
an inch beyond the dead line into the 
live bark; scrape the exposed parts of 
the wood free from all dead fiber, and 
paint it with asphalt paint, covering the 
wound well. This will prevent worms 
entering the wound, decay, and further 
infection from any live spores that may 
be still present on the exposed wood. Re¬ 
move all bark and scrapings away from 
root of tree and burn them. K. 
Garlic. 
What is to be done with garlic on a 
farm in small patches in the fields? Can 
you get rid of it, and how? n. x,. 
Pennsylvania. 
The garlic may be dug out with a 
spade or “spud.” This is the surest way. 
Salt or kerosene put on the roots will 
kill many plants. If the patches can be 
plowed, planting with hoed crops with 
thorough culture will get rid of most of 
the garlic and constant mowing or clip¬ 
ping of the tops will help. 
the feet at time of planting. This will 
prevent the air reaching the roots, which 
is invariably more or less injurious to 
the plants, and sometimes causes a com¬ 
plete failure of the crop. 
Radishes, are very subject to the at¬ 
tack of root maggots, particularly when 
grown in soil that has been repeatedly 
fertilized with stable manure. The fol¬ 
lowing remedy will be found quite ef¬ 
fective : To one-fourth pound of soap 
boiled in one quart of water, add when 
removing from the fire one pint of crude 
carbolic acid, dilute the whole with from 
10 to 12 gallons of water, and apply 
along the rows a couple of days after the 
plants are up, and at intervals of eight 
or 10 days. Usually two applications are 
suffieii nt to fre.e the crop froifi this pest. 
This remedy will be found quite effective 
in the treatment of cabbage, cauliflower, 
etc., that are suffering from an attack of 
the root maggot. K. 
Trouble With Lindens. 
Four years ago last Spring I planted 
six linden trees. They all grew very 
nicely until last Spring, when I noticed 
one of them being slow in budding, and 
the leaves did not come out until two 
or three weeks after the others, and 
looked rather weak. Examining the 
trunk I found the bark loose on one side 
about 12 inches above the ground. I cut 
this part out and put grafting wax across 
the edges, but later the bark got loose 
all around and the tree died. I have 
now found the same trouble on another 
tree, but as it is yet very little I believe 
this tree can bo saved. Will you tell 
me what is the cause and what can I do 
to save the other trees? I believe that 
there is some kind of a borer as I have 
found some small holes in the bark and 
a mealy stuff like fine sawdust inside. 
Rockville Center, L. I. u. e. k. 
I am unable to tell the author of the 
above question, just what is wrong with 
his lindens. I had the same experience 
a few years ago. The Spring of 190S I 
planted three European lindens; they 
made a very satisfactory growth that 
year, with no visible signs of sunseald or 
any other bark trouble, but the next 
Spring one of them did not leaf out. and 
the other two barely unfolded their leaves 
in a feeble attempt to grow, but soon 
gave up the ghost. Upon careful exam¬ 
ination I found the bark in exactly the 
same condition described in the above 
letter, and upon digging them up I found 
the roots dead, and so far as I could see 
the roots had never thrown out a fibre, 
nor had the cut roots callused the least 
bit. It appeared that some species of 
fungus disease had attacked the roots, 
probably at the terminals or where they 
had been bruised, and slowly followed 
the roots to their base, perhaps by Fall 
or early Winter, and for a certain dis¬ 
tance up the trunks by the following 
Spring. I believe that sunseald might 
possibly produce the conditions he de¬ 
scribes. The bark of the linden is soft 
and spongy, being composed of several 
papyrus-like layers, which quickly absorb 
dampness, and on account of its spongy 
nature will hold the dampness a long 
time. It is possible these trees were sun- 
scalded the previous Summer and the dead 
bark becoming saturated with moisture, 
perhaps early in the Fall, created a fav¬ 
orable ground for the spores of some 
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