1914. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
11 
The Home Acre. 
Water Sprouts; Cherry truit Buds. 
1. What is the right name for young 
shoots on pear, apple trees, etc.? Is the 
name water sprouts or suckers? 2. Do 
cherry buds grow close to the bud of the 
last year? In other words, can you in¬ 
jure the next year’s buds by pulling the 
stems off instead of twisting them off? 
Some authorities say you injure some 
buds. N. K. 
New Cumberland, Pa. 
1. The approved name for the shoots 
that come out on the larger branches of 
apple, pear and other trees is “water 
sprouts” rather than suckers. They are 
of a succulent nature, while in the grow¬ 
ing state, and that is why this name is 
given them. Sprouts that come up from 
the roots of trees and bushes are usually 
called “suckers” and they sometimes de¬ 
tract from the growth of the parents and 
that is why the name sucker is applied. 
2. The fruit buds of the cherry are al¬ 
ways formed on short spurs and while new 
spurs are formed each year some of the 
old ones that have had fruit buds an 1 
fruit on them will set more buds of the 
same kind. It is possible to injure the 
prospects of the future crop to a very 
small degree by careless gathering of the 
fruit. To pull oft' the wood and buds 
with the cherries is all wrong. 
II. E. VAN DEMAX. 
Globe Artichoke. 
I sowed seeds of crown artichoke De¬ 
cember 15; last year I sowed them in 
January, had them established in eight- 
inch pots by May, then I planted them 
out in good rich heavy soil. They grew 
along slowly, are now strong crowns, but 
bore no fruit. I have been told that this 
is the only way to grow them in North¬ 
ern Massachusetts, from seed every year. 
Is this so, and what kind of soil do they 
like best? J. M. 
Stoekbridge, Mass. 
A plantation of this vegetable, whether 
started from seed or suckers, will make 
but few if any flower heads the first 
year, as it requires one year’s growth 
in the open ground to form good crowns, 
after which, with proper care, the plan¬ 
tation will remain in bearing for a num¬ 
ber of years. This plant is generally con¬ 
sidered hardy, but north of Washington 
the plants will need more or less protec¬ 
tion in Winter, varying according to the 
severity of tlie cold. In the latitude of 
Massachusetts, a mulching of eight to 12 
inches of leaves or coarse manure should 
be put around the plants and between 
the rows to protect them from freezing. A 
sandy and somewhat moist loam is best 
suited to this vegetable, and during dry 
weather in Summer it should be freely 
watered. K. 
Use of Tobacco Stems. 
I send you a sample of tobacco stems 
which I can buy at $6 per ton of about 
100 bushels, delivered on my young ap¬ 
ple orchard, two years planted. Do you 
consider them worth the money or what 
would you suppose them worth? Would 
you advise them hauled on the orchard 
now, or not until Spring and turned down 
right away? Barnyard manure cannot 
be had here. I think two tons of the 
stems per acre would do some good if 
they are worth the price. B. A. K. 
Yoe, Pa. 
These stems are apparently of very 
good quality. As plant food they are 
worth about five times as much as man¬ 
ure. We should be glad to get any quan¬ 
tity at this price. You can haul them 
now and then scatter around the trees. 
Do not throw them up close to the trunk, 
but leave six inches or so of bare ground 
— then scatter the stems evenly over the 
ground. They are also very good for the 
garden or for lien’s nests. 
Top-Dressing With Limestone, 
Would it pay to haul ground limestone 
four miles if you could get it for (50 cents 
per ton? If so, and it was applied to 
wheat sown last Fall, would it be any 
benefit to the wheat? Would it be any 
benefit to the clover seed to be sown in 
the Spring, if applied this Winter? 
e. <;. M. 
It will pay to haul this ground lime¬ 
stone, but we have never received ben¬ 
efit from lime put on top of the crops and 
left there. The effective way to use lime 
is to work it down into the soil. This is 
best done by spreading after plowing or 
digging and harrowing in. 
Fruit Trees in Garden. 
I have part of my garden in which I 
have planted some young fruit trees; I 
am also using it as a garden, manuring 
it heavily every year. Would it be possi- 
ble_ to continue using this as a garden 
after the trees are bearing, by fertiliz¬ 
ing heavily? I might add that most of 
these trees are dwarfs, and are planted 
about 20 feet each way. M. M. w. 
Yes, you can continue to grow some 
of your vegetables among these trees. 
Some vegetables, like sweet corn, will not 
do so well in the shade, while others will 
make a fair growth under these condi¬ 
tions. They will not make full crops 
when grown among the trees, but can 
be made to pay. 
Dormant Spraying. 
What is meant by treating or spraying 
trees in the dormant season? Does this 
mean in the Winter? c. F. B. 
Gibsonia, Pa. 
A “dormant tree” refers to the Win¬ 
ter season, when there is no growth. 
The tree is practically asleep at this 
time. With Spring the tree wakes up, 
its sap begins to circulate and its buds 
swell. We can spray the dormant tree 
with a stronger solution than would be 
safe when the buds are tender or broken 
out. 
Remedy for Apple Canker. 
Will you give formula for making 
paint or wash for canker on fruit trees, 
and how and when to apply? J. s. M. 
Springfield, Mo. 
Formerly this Station recommended a 
mixture of whitewash, blue vitriol and 
wood ashes as a dressing for wounds 
made by apple canker; but it is now 
held that the best method of treating such 
wounds is first carefully to remove the 
dead bark and decayed wood, thoroughly 
disinfect the wound with a 1-1000 solu¬ 
tion of corrosive sublimate, and cover 
with coal tar. If the canker is not too 
large this treatment will prolong the life 
of the limb sufficiently to make its use 
profitable. f. c. stewart. 
Geneva (N. Y.) Exp. Station. 
Making a New Soil. 
I have a small place here of three 
acres which I am putting into vegetables 
and fruits as fast as I can. A part of 
my land has been robbed of its surface 
soil, exposing the mixture of yellow and 
red clay which underlies the surface soil 
in this section. I wish to get this under 
soil in condition so that it can be used 
for fruit or nut trees as soon as possible. 
What would you recommend me to sow 
which would grow on such soil and bring 
up its fertility? I have used quite a 
little manure on this land, but all I have 
succeeded in raising so far is a crop 
of weeds. M. M. W. 
Nyack, N. Y r . 
This soil needs lime and organic mat¬ 
ter. The top soil having been taken off, 
the bottom or subsoil must now be thor¬ 
oughly shaken up, sweetened and filled 
with humus. If the ground is now bare, 
have it plowed deeply in the Spring, and 
after plowing use at least one ton of 
slaked lime per acre. Harrow this thor¬ 
oughly into the ground, and seed a com¬ 
bination of turnip seed and oats. This 
will make a fair growth, and in June 
plow this all under, and broadcast about 
400 pounds per aci’e of a good fertilizer 
suitable for corn. Then sow two bushels 
of buckwheat per acre. Add to the buck¬ 
wheat one bushel of v ye, and 1 2 pounds 
of Crimson clover seed. This should 
make a fair growth. Let the buckwheat 
die down upon the ground after frost, 
and leave the rye and Crimson clover 
alone. They will grow’ on through the 
Fall and start up in the Spring. Plow 
them under when the rye is about three 
feet high. Work up the ground thorough¬ 
ly, and you may then begin to plant corn, 
potatoes, or similar crops, using a fair 
quantity of fertilizer when you plant. 
The lime and these green crops will great¬ 
ly help the soil. 
“They are always talkin’ about the 
wonders of electricity,” said Farmer Corn- 
tossel, “but there’s one of its greatest 
achievements they don’t mention.” “To 
what do you refer?” “The way it has 
killed off the fellers who made jokes about 
people who went to town an’ blew out 
the gas.”—Washington Star. 
“Here’s something queer,” said the 
dentist. “You say this tooth has never 
been worked on before, but I find small 
flakes of gold on my instrument.” “I 
think you have struck my back collar 
button,” replied the victim.—Buffalo 
Commercial. 
Father: “T T pon my word, you children 
are getting too dainty for anything. Jam 
and butter on the same piece of bread, 
indeed! Why, when I was your age I 
was glad to get enough dry bread to eat.” | 
Robert: “You have a much better time« 
living with us, don’t you, father?”—Na- i 
tional Monthly. 
E. Frank Coe Fertilizers 
1857 
THE BUSINESS FARMERS’ STANDARD 
FOR OVER FIFTY-FIVE YEARS 
1913 
Do You Raise 300 Bushels of Potatoes per Acre? 
HREE hundred bushels per acre is 
not an unusual yield by any means, 
but did you get it this year ? 
<JIf you were planning to raise 300 
bushels of potatoes to the acre how 
far apart would you space your rows? 
How far apart would you drop the seed pieces in 
the row ? 
<IHow much fertilizer would you use to grow 300 
bushels of potatoes per acre? How would you 
apply it ? 
tJAre you sure that your seed potatoes are true to 
name and true to type ? 
<JWhat are you doing to prevent “scab,” and early 
and late blight ? 
<JDid you have a short crop of potatoes because of 
dry weather ? Have you decided how you will 
overcome this trouble in the future ? 
CJAll these practical points, and many more, are fully covered in our 
new book 
“Potatoes: A Money Crop** 
which will be sent free to every potato grower who requests a copy, and 
mentions this paper. 
•jJThis book is written by a ,nan who himself has had years of experience as 
a potato grower, and who uas made a careful study of the best methods of 
other growers. 
€JIf you read this book you will keep it for future reference. It is a “worth 
while’’ publication. 
The Coe-Mortimer Company 
51 CHAMBERS STREET, NEW YORK CITY 
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