1914. 
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TTHEJ RURAL 
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VV are ready to answer your questions, and will direct you step by step in the development and 
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Kitchen Waste for Poultry. 
From June to November I can secure 
the waste from a large kitchen, enough to 
partially feed a large flock of poultry. 
This would consist of the usual leavings 
around a large house, and consist of bits 
of meat, bread, cereal, vegetables, fruit, 
etc. Would this be suitable to feed poul¬ 
try? If so, how feed, and should I bal¬ 
ance it with a grain ration? s. E. S. 
Massachusetts. 
Table refuse makes a very good feed 
tion by providing warm, comfortable 
quarters, free from drafts and dampness, 
and the addition of permanganate of 
potassium to their drinking water at the 
first signs of “colds.” A stock solution 
of this may be made by dissolving an 
ounce of the crystals in three pints of 
water, and one pint of this solution may 
be added to each two quarts of the drink¬ 
ing water. m. b. d. 
Scaly Leg. 
Drawn from a Photograph 
239 
for a flock of fowls when saved sepa¬ 
rately for that purpose, and when fed 
properly with other feed in order to make 
a complete ration. Of course it must 
always be fed fresh. Probably the best 
way to feed this refuse is to mix it into 
a moist mash with the addition of a small 
amount of dry mash to take up the extra 
moisture, which is usually used to soak 
the dry bread among the refuse. This 
mash mixture should then be fed either 
at noon or at night during the period of 
time you mention, and can be fed to ad¬ 
vantage to both old and young fowls. 
Whole grain, such as cracked corn, wheat 
and oats should be fed twice a day be¬ 
sides this mash and grit, charcoal and 
oyster shell must be kept by them at all 
times. If there is not enough meat in the 
table refuse a sufficient quantity of 
ground beef scrap should be added to 
produce the desired results. c. S. G. 
Concrete Henhouse Floors. 
Our experience with concrete as a 
floor for chicken houses has been more 
satisfactory than that of Irving C. Lewis, 
page 22. We have two small houses 
floored with concrete slabs, which have 
been in use for two years, and instead 
of wearing out the chickens’ toenails. I 
should say they are longer in TV inter 
than in Summer, when they do more dig¬ 
ging in the ground outside. We do not 
use an extraordinary amount of litter, 
usually about four inches deep and they 
reach the floor quite often. I can imagine 
but two possible causes for Mr. Lewis’ 
trouble; either using an insufficient 
amount of cement and not troweling the 
surface smooth after spreading, or using 
a dry mixture, such as is commonly used 
for cement blocks. I have seen quite a 
few of them which would undoubtedly 
act as Mr. Lewis states, were such a ma¬ 
terial used for flooring. 
The slabs which we use are 2% inches 
thick, 2x2% feet, of same mixture 
throughout, laid directly on the ground, 
and we have no trouble from moisture 
rising through the concrete, so we see no 
occasion for the six inches of cinders 
given in the original specifications. Port¬ 
land cement concrete mixed with a suf- 
ficent amount of water is a very dift'erent 
material from that mixed with only 
enough water to moisten it, and possibly 
an insufficient amount of cement. The 
first will be waterproof, the second will 
be porous, and conduct moisture like 
sandstone or brick. In one of our houses 
we used some sandstone and brick to com¬ 
plete an odd-sized floor, and these are 
always moist on top, except in the driest 
time in Summer, so that dirt sticks to 
them, showing need for cinder base. 
The first concrete floor we made we 
used natural cement, which never got 
harder than dry clay, and in Winter the 
litter on top of it became as wet as 
though it had lain in the rain, so we 
coated it with hot tar, which was effec¬ 
tive and made a smooth floor, but we 
wouldn’t do it again, as it must be spread 
from the outside, owing to the fumes 
given off, and it is easily chipped, as the 
tar does not stick to the concrete. Next 
time we would put on a two-inch layer 
of Portland cement concrete, mixed with 
enough water to work easily and troweled 
off smooth. W. J. M. 
Elyria, O. 
Reducing Fat Sow ; Roup. 
1. Will you tell me how I can reduce 
the fat on a sow which has been bred 
about two weeks? She is an O. I. C., 
and I do not want to lose her. 2. Also 
what land of a roup cure can you tell me? 
New York. F. ii. s. 
1. If the sow is over fat. reduce her 
rations gradually until she is getting only 
enough to keep her in good thrifty condi¬ 
tion and provide for the needs of the 
growing pigs. Do not feed oornroeal, ex¬ 
cept, possibly, as a very small portion of 
the rations. Use instead, the bone and 
muscle forming foods, such as wheat 
bran, middlings, oats, beans, and barley. 
The food should be chiefly in the form of 
slops, and if needed to keep the bowels 
loose, add a little oil meal to the other 
grains fed. While a brood sow should not 
be fat, do not go to the other extreme 
and starve her. The developing pigs 
need nourishment. A brood sow should 
be made to take daily exercise, and a 
good-sized pasture field provides for this. 
2. The best “cure” for roup is preveu- 
Can you tell me the cause and how to 
cure scales on chickens’ feet? I have 
just purchased 50 Leghorns just starting 
in to lay, and have just tried kerosene 
oil on a few of their feet, but it seems 
that after the kerosene had been applied 
to their feet the chickens became sick 
and stopped laying. Will you give me 
the necessary information to get rid of 
these thick scales; also if what you 
recomend would be good to apply to 
chickens’ feet that have not got scales 
on, to prevent same from coming on? 1 
have been told that scales are caused by 
lice. M. J. M. 
New Jersey. 
Scaly leg is not caused by lice, but 
by small mites which burrow beneath the 
scales upon a fowl’s shanks and live 
there. They are usually easily destroyed 
by the thorough use of kerosene, either 
as a dip, or mixed with vaseline and 
used as an ointment to be -thoroughly 
rubbed into the scaly parts. Repeated | 
treatment may be needed to free the fowls 
from them, and in very severe cases, it 
is sometimes necessary to soak the fowl’s 
legs in warm water until the worst ot the 
scales can be removed. In your case, 
two or three good applications of kero¬ 
sene, or kerosene ointment, will probably 
suffice. M. B. D. 
Frozen Combs. 
I have on hand 30 S. C. W. Leghorn 
males which had their combs and wattles 
frozen. Some are only slightly touched, 
while a few are pretty bad. What effect 
will it have on them as breeders? I 
want to put them with the hens in about 
three weeks. What is a good remedy for 
treating the combs? J. P. A. 
Perkiomenville, Pa. 
Slight frosting of combs and wattles 
will probably not interfere with the use 
of males in the breeding pens, but in 
severe cases the pain and soreness may 
make the birds unfit for use. There is 
little that can be done in the way of 
treatment; if discovered early, the frozen 
part should be thawed out with snow. 
Healing will be hastened if badly frozen 
portions of the comb are cut away, and 
the wound kept greased with carbolized 
vaseline in 5 per cent, strength. 
M. B. D. 
Poultry Questions. 
1. How often should deep litter on 
pountry house floor be replaced? 2. If 
poultry manure is spread on the surface 
of the garden in Winter is there likely 
to be loss of nitrogen? 3. llow much 
yard room is required in the double yard 
plan for poultry? Where can a discus¬ 
sion of the double yard system be found? 
4. Can more Leghorns than birds of the 
larger breeds be kept advantageously on 
a given floor area? How many? 5. Do 
sweet potatoes tend to stop liens laying? 
Do potatoes and other kitchen vegetable 
refuse not containing chlorophyll take the 
place of “green stuff” that is green, for 
poultry? F. W. B. 
Winchester, Mass. 
1. Litter should be changed as often 
as it becomes soiled and packed down by 
the hens. The time will vary with the 
number of hens kept and the kind of 
litter. Probably every four to six weeks 
would not be any too often in most 
pountry houses, though every six months 
would be nearer the interval usually 
intervening. 2. On fairly level surfaces 
which do not wash there would probably 
be little loss of nitrogen from poultry 
manure spread in the Winter. The best 
way to keep it, however, is to mix it 
with sufficient absorbent material and 
store it in a dry place until it is needed 
in the Spring. 3. Leghorns do not not 
require quite the floor space, and perch 
space, that the larger breeds do but. 
there is not enough difference so that 
needed areas have been calculated for 
each breed. From three to four square 
feet for each fowl should be provided, 
and it would be well to give the larger 
fowls the maximum area. 4. There is 
no fixed rule for calculating yard room; 
the more the better. Even with double 
yards, the largest available space is ad¬ 
visable as more time can then be given 
to allow fouled ground to recuperate. 5. 
Vegetables do not exactly take the place 
of “greens,” or those plants made green 
by chlorophyll, but they frequently have 
to be substituted for them. There is a 
tonic effect in “yarbs” that vegetables 
lack; else why do we crave dandelion 
greens in the Spring? M. b. d. 
Save your trees by cutting out the rot, and 
filling the cut with Atlas Cement concrete. 
Those trees are worth a few hours’ work. 
There are so many ways you can use ' Atlas” around 
the place it often pays to keep a few bags on hand in 
a dry shed. Think of the time it saves. 
Ask your dealer for Atlas. You’ll be glad you did. 
Price S1.00 CONCRETE WORK. Price Sl.OO 
DO IT YOURSELF AND SAVE 504. Learn how NOW. " CONCRETE GUIDE ” gives complete detailed in¬ 
structions, plans and illustrations. Shows how to build Cement walks. Steps, Driveways, Floors, Fence posts. 
Poultry, Houses, etc. All explained.so thoroughly that experience isunnecessary. A standard reference book 
which every property owner should have.—Price SI. CONCRETE GUIDE, Dep. A, 306 Livingston Bldg., Rochester, N.Y, 
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