1914. 
TME RURAL 
313 
MEW- VO M K E V. 
BETWEEN SEASONS ACCESSORIES 
Show windows and shop counters are 
already gay with new Spring furbelows. 
Such an alluring array as there is! It 
positively makes one feel shabby to be¬ 
hold them, for even the best of Winter 
wardrobes have a way of appearing dingy 
at this between season, when it is still 
too early to discard old plumage for new. 
Forehanded women are, therefore, re¬ 
furnishing their costumes and giving them 
the smart little touches that will make 
them appear up-to-date these last Win¬ 
ter days. 
First of all the very newest thing is 
the c utaway jacket. It is not a difficult 
matter to perform the feat of shortening 
the front of an old one. thus making it 
conform to the 1 new style. The very 
latest cut is that which is long behind 
and extremely short in front, extending 
just below the bust. With this idea was 
born the waistcoat girdle as an accom¬ 
panying accessory. I mentioned this 
transforming waistcoat girdle last month, 
but in this paper I am able to illustrate 
the very newest thing, with a hope that 
it may serve as a suggestion for numer¬ 
ous variations. Of course it may be* worn 
with any jacket, hut to appear really 
smart it will be wise to abbreviate tlie 
length of your coat in front- All that is 
necessary is a pair of shears and a little 
confidence in yourself. Perhaps it would 
be better to mark 
the 
front 
of 
tin 
• coa t 
with 
white chalk. 
just 
who 
re 
you 
wish 
to ni: 
tike it a “cutaway 
,” th 
(‘u 
try 
it on 
befoD 
i' the shears 
have 
done 
th 
oil* 
work. 
It w 
ill be easier 
to ehangi 
• y< 
Din* 
mind 
about 
the length bt 
•fore 
you 1 
um 
‘ cu 
t into 
the t 
•oat than afterwards. 
Tl 
lie 
fronts 
may 
bo left loose, 
or they may 
be 
gath- 
ered 
blouse-fashion 
. If 
the 
la tt 
el\ 
a belt 
will 
be required. 
If 
the 
for 
nu*i 
\ the 
fronts should be lined with silk or satin. 
[ know one clever girl who always makes 
the most of materials at hand, who lined 
the loose fronts of her box coat with a 
flowered rose silk she emancipated from 
an old pair of rose velour portieres. She 
then proceeded to make just such a waist¬ 
coat girdle as I have pictured from a 
piece of the plain rose velour curtain, the 
latter having seen its best days. An¬ 
other section was used to make a hand¬ 
bag. mention of which will be made later. 
No pattern is required for the girdle, 
as it is cut even all around with the ex¬ 
ception of a slight curve in front. Fold 
a seven-inch width of material together, 
allowing about live inches longer than the 
actual waist size, for the lapping which 
simulates the vest. In any event, the 
girdle must be loose when finished, other¬ 
wise it will wrinkle. After the girdle 
is cut. pass it around the waist, and pin 
the ends just as you wish the diagonal 
slashing to appear when it is finished. 
Then cut, and proceed to line and stitch 
tailor fashion. In fact, it will be better 
to stitch the girdle before lining, as the 
latter should be blind-stitched by hand. 
Chamois, suede, plain and figured vel¬ 
our or a piece of broadcloth to match the 
skirt with which it is to be worn may 
be used for the waistcoat girdle. It may 
as little sacrifice of material as possible, 
and Were then laid together and trimmed 
exactly the same size, the upper edges 
being left straight, and the lower ones 
curved to a middle point. A lining of 
gold satin was cut a trifle larger, even 
when seams were allowed for; possibly 
a quarter of an inch on all sides except 
the toi», where plenty for turning in and 
finishing was allowed. The lining was 
made first, then the two sections of sued ' 
were laid on it and stitched neatly down, 
without the edges being turned in at all- 
This left the little space between them, 
all around the sides and bottom, open, 
showing the raw seam of the lining. Over 
this was then stitcheu the gold braid, 
joining the two suede sections. The up¬ 
per ends of the braid were turned down 
and were covered by the lining satin, 
which was turned in at the top and 
stitched to the suede just below a row of 
Simple but Frenohv mode of trimming a last 
year’s straw hut to wear tiie "between season.” 
eyelets, through which ran a heavy gold 
silk cord, with brown and gold tassels. 
The gold braid would have worn too 
harshly against the suede. Of a narrower 
gold braid a handle was plaited, each 
end of which was attached to the center 
of a suede panel. The ends of the braid 
were sufficiently long to be curved and 
sewed on to the suede in a pattern re¬ 
sembling the Celtic interwoven designs. 
Another combination well worth trying 
would be black suede with violet moire 
for lining. • using a black cord and tassel 
for carrying and finishing. 
There is no article of apparel which be¬ 
gins to look quite so passe as the hat one 
has been wearing every day for the past 
few months. The woman who would dis¬ 
card her Winter chapeau and freshen 
up her last year’s shape for wear until 
she is ready to replace it with a new 
Spring creation, may do so with excellent 
results. Remove the trimming, if you 
have not already done so. brush the straw 
until every particle of dust has disap¬ 
peared, then give it a coat of shoe polish 
Waistcoat girdle made from the uppers of an old 
be boned before lining or left to wear 
crush fashion. Figured cotton eponge, 
with a sprawling rose, or any other floral 
design, will make a smart waistcoat gir¬ 
dle, and give a little “Springy" touch to 
a suit. These eponges are inexpensive, 
tind are quite the newest thing in fabrics. 
I.. season we called eponge “ratine.” 
but the new material is practically the 
same coarse, Turkish towelling weave 
with the exception that formal effects 
and Bulgarian colorings are seen on the 
plain backgrounds. These are exception¬ 
ally adapted to waistcoats, and cuffs and 
collars for wear with a tailored suit, as 
they launder and may be kept immacu 
late. 
So long as the fingers and hand-seams 
of long suede and kid gloves persist in 
wearing out before the arm sections, just 
so long will uses be contrived for the 
pieces of soft smooth suede, and delicately 
tinted kid that only a reckless needlewom¬ 
an would ever dream of throwing away. 
Perhaps they will lie just the thing to 
utilize in fashioning a waistcoat girdle 
(as they are easily seamed on the ma¬ 
chine) or one of the new bags for which 
an old frame may be used. 
From the uppers of a pair of brown 
suede gloves, with a couple of yards of 
gold braid a half-inch wide, a fascinat¬ 
ing hand-bag was made. The two pieces 
of suede were opened along the seam with 
pair of evening gloves. Lined with white satin. 
of the liouid variety. Set in the sun¬ 
shine to dry. Almost any scrap-bag has 
a roll of black moire, satin or velvet rib¬ 
bon which may be used in some such 
form of trimming as that pictured, or 
even ordinary velvet, cut on the bias, 
will answer every purpose. First, there 
should be a straight fold across the front 
of the crown with a “fan” trimming on 
either side well toward the back. To 
make such a rosette, side-plait the rib¬ 
bon or velvet, one plait on top of the 
other until it has the required fulness; 
then secure the entire mass of plaits at 
one edge with coarse thread. When there 
is no danger of the plaits falling apart, 
they will drop naturally into a flare as 
pictured, fan-fashioned. Each end of the 
ribbon fold may be secured to the rosette 
on either side, leaving the puffy center 
free. It is a simple, Frenehy mode, and 
easy of achievement. 
Either a soft lace collar with a frilled 
edge of net. or one of the high-at-the- 
hack crepe de chine or crepe meteor col¬ 
lars with the wide flare hem-stitched, 
may be worn with such a costume. The 
newest of these Medici collars rolls in 
graduated points over a simulated vest. 
Speaking of collars, I saw a costume on 
Fifth Avenue the other day the most 
noticeable feature of which was the high 
upstanding Siarched collar. Not the old- 
fashioned circumspect stand-up kind, but 
a picturesque flaring accessory with high 1 
points in front. Such as our great-great- 
grandfathers used to wear, with a skirt 
of linen that lies flat on the outside of 
the bodice. A black satin fold passes 
around the neck to disguise the joining 
of the collar and its linen skirt. The 
collars look exactly as I have described 
them, and any woman who wishes to cut 
one after her own fancy is safe in doing 
so. The more picturesque and flaring 
it is fashioned, the better style it will be. 
It requires a half yard of linen to make 
a collar and its “skirt.” 
And remember, while you have your 
hat box of materials out to make one of 
the little boutonnieres of the different 
flowers at hand, to add an attractive 
touch of color to your costume—a pink 
rose, a gardenia, a few violets, a spray 
of Iily-of-the-valley, and forget-me-nots j 
make as charming a boutonniere as one 
would wish for. and which to purchase 
would cost a small fortune. 
If you have a party gown you wish to 
refurnish, why not make a minaret gir¬ 
dle? They cost $4 in the shops, and may 
be fashioned at home for hut little, and 
perhaps at no expense. There is a wide 
band of material at the waist—satin or 
silk, supporting a quaint flounce of the 
same fabric. In the front is a “tablier” 
of satin finished with a silk tassel. This 
can be worn with any skirt and has 
the effect of a tunic. 
Should you wish a pretty scarf to wear 
over your shoulders for an evening affair, 
there is nothing more attractive than 
black or white tulle. A two-yard length 
will be required. As it is wide, one width 
is sufficient. Turn a hem in each end and 
gather with silk thread. Draw in a knot 
and secure with a silk tassel. The latter 
cost but 10 or 15 cents apiece, and they 
come with a little hooded top that fits in 
the “frill” of the tulle. There is an ele¬ 
gance about tulle that sets off a costume 
as nothing else can do- 
LOUISE E. DEW. 
I 
EBHBHSa 
The General 
sayss- 
There are many plausible “tests” 
of roofing, but there is only one 
true test—the proof on the roof. 
Therefore, roof your buildings— 
every building on the farm—with 
Certain-teed 
—the roofing with a 15-year-ser- 
viee-guarantee.The three biggest 
roofing mills In the world are behind it, 
to make that guarantee good. 
Your dealer can furnish Certain - teed 
Roofing in rolls and shingles—made by 
the General Roofing Mfg. Co., tcorld's 
largest roofing manufacturers. East St. 
Louis, Ill., Marseilles, Ill., York, Pa. 
FARMS 
twttt t i?v rrvTi; 
Send for our FARM CAT 
AI.OGUE. 100 VIEWS of 
FIU'IT. POULTRY and 
GENERAL FARMS in or 
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AGENCY in SOUTH JERSEY. 1077 Diesel Building, 
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DEATH FORCES THIS HOMESTEAD ON MARKET 
FOR IMMEDIATE SALE 
82 acres. f> acres woodland: balance cultivated. 
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*4 mile to school and church. Included—J cows. 
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Level, fertile, paying Farms in the most 
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Fred C. McCarty, Auburn, N. Y. 
FARMS 
A. W 
A I. I. SIZKSII.I ST 
| ALL rUKPOSKS FREE 
DRESSER, Burlington, New Jersey 
icn FIRMS for SALE—Near Phila. mid Trenton markets: 
IJU '"d R.R. ami trolley facilities. New catalogue. Es¬ 
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RIEMERS 
WOOD SOLE 
Shoes or Boots 
^ st the thing for farmers ! 
g 
ight. durable, sanitary. 
r waterproof way ahead 
of leather or metal soles for all farm and dairy work. 
Tty a pair and be convinced. Send money and 
stale size wanted. SHOES, $2.50; BOOTS, 
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your door. Satisfaction or money back. 
CDCC | F“r a limited time we will rive absolutely 
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dressing for work shoes, boots or harness. 
Illustrated booklet free. 
A. H. RIEMER SHOE CO. (Established 1887) 
2911 Vllet St., MILWAUKEE, Wta. 
When you write advertisers mentiou The 
if. N.-Y. and you'll get a quick reply and a 
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Ask for No. 910 . 
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CAROLINA 
CORN 
COUNTRY 
The GULF STREAM 
LAND OF 
MILD WINTERS 
Thousands of Acres— Rich, Black 
Sandy lx>am Soil, Eastern level 
coast fluids, or rolling up-lands of 
middlestate. New virgin 
farms, or lands already 
under tillage Corn, cot¬ 
ton, tobacco, peanuts, trucking, hay and livestock. 
Ample monthly rainfall. Twelve hours from New 
York. Corn yield record of 174 bushels per acre. 
Low priced lands. Write for Free Maps and 
Descriptive booklet. Address. B. E. RICK, Land 
Agent, Norfolk Sootbern R. R , Oept. D. Norfolk, Virginia 
Don't 
Pay 
Rent 
Buy Southern Land— buy all you can^ 
”—prices now extremely low—natural in¬ 
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years—well farmed, annual profits will 
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try, fruit and truck—these are a few of 
the big money-making lines. Along the 
Southern Ry.. M.&O.andG. S. A- F. Ry. 
are many openings. Writenow for ‘‘South¬ 
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N M. V. Richards. Land and Ind.Agt., M 
lioom 87 So.Ry. Washington. D.C.^F 
Widow Must Sell 346 ACRES 
Chautauqua Co ; 2 miles from Village. Population, 
1.600, Powdered Milk Plant. Canning factory .Cream- 
erv. High School, Depot, Churches. All tillable. 60 
acres valuable timber. No Stones. 15-room bouse, 
finished in oak: hot and cold water. Barns ordinary. 
Well watered. Over 1.000 prime apple trees; small 
fruit. Price, $10,000. Easy terms. See Wm. Bement, 
Sherman, N.Y, Free List. ELLIS BROS., Springville, N.Y. 
FARMS of ail Sizes PURPOSES 
Cheap enough. Mild climate. For information write 
State Beard ef Agriculture, Dover, Delaware 
Get Your Canadian Home 
From the Canadian Pacific 
ix. 
The 
Home - 
Maker 
E will make you a long time 
loan—you can move on the 
land at once — your Cana¬ 
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We Give You 20 
Years to Pay 
Rich Canadian land, 511 to 5-30 per acre 
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We Lend You $2000 
For Farm Improvements Only 
No other security than the land. You 
are given twenty years to pay with inter¬ 
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Or if you want a place already estab¬ 
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This Great Offer Is Based 
On Good Land 
Finest on earth for general mixed farm¬ 
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Located on or near railway. The famous 
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precious. Write today. 
K. S THORNTON, Colonization Agent 
Canadian Pacific Railway 
Colonization Department 
112 Weit Adams Street, Chicago, Illinois 
FOR SALE— Town tots in all growing 
towns. Ask for information on in¬ 
dustrial and business openings. 
