1914. 
'1' PI fcC RURAL NEW-YORKER 
38 7 
Lime-Sulphur and Peach- Tree Borer*. 
Tile Insect And Its Work. —The 
adult of the borer is a wasp-shaped moth, 
and these moths are daylight flyers. It 
is easy to learn whether or not a tree is 
infested by looking for the gum. Peach 
trees, when injured, exude a gum at the 
injured place as a protection. If a borer 
is causing the injury, this gum will be 
filled with frass—fine sawdust-like bits 
of wood and bark. The borer winters 
over in the worm stage. Those full 
grown or nearly full grown hibernate in 
the burrows under the bark, while the 
younger ones construct a cell on the bark 
outside. They do not feed during the 
Winter except, possibly, in the Southern 
States, and then only during the warm 
spells. When the borer is full grown it 
makes a cocoon at or near the surface 
of the ground, usually on the trunk of the 
tree. Those that I have seen had a large 
amount of frass worked into them. In¬ 
side the cocoon the borer transforms into 
a pupa and later into an adult. It takes 
about three or four weeks for this, then 
they come out and the female commences 
laying eggs. 
How the Injury is Done. —These 
adults commence to emerge in southern 
Pennsylvania about June 15. A few may 
come out before that time, but not in con¬ 
siderable numbers. They continue to ap¬ 
pear until about the middle of September. 
A few may come out after that. Each 
female will lay any Where from 2<)0 to 300 
eggs. These are laid any old place—on 
the trunk of the tree, on grass and weeds 
nearby or even on the ground. The eggs 
hatch in nine or 10 days, and the little 
borers immediately hunt for weak places 
in the bark by which to enter the trunk. 
These little fellows grow rapidly and 
feed until cool weather forces them to 
hibernate. When full grown the borer 
is about three-fourths of an inch long. 
The damage they do consists of eating 
the softer fibres under the bark. They 
tunnel about when doing this in the 
cambium layer, the growing point of the 
tree. As it is not uncommon to pick a 
dozen from a single tree, a season’s work 
of such a number is sufficient to put that 
tree out of business. 
Treatment. —There is but one cure 
for peach trees already infested. Cut the 
borers out with a knife, always cutting 
with the grain of the wood. The method 
used by Thomas Greenfield of Oakdale 
is the best I know. lie cuts out all he 
can find, having removed the soil for a 
depth of two or three inches, and he 
scrapes the bark smooth. The entire or¬ 
chard is gone over before the soil is re¬ 
placed. Having wormed the orchard he 
starts over it again two or three days 
later to replace the soil. But before tin* 
soil is put in place each trunk is carefully 
examined for borers, lie is thus enabled 
to find many small borers which would 
otherwise have been missed—their pres 
cnee is indicated by the frass. The in¬ 
jection of liquid is sometimes recom¬ 
mended, but it is not successful because 
the gum so closes the burrows that the 
liquids cannot reach the borers. 
Control Measures. —The best way to 
control the peach tree borer is by pre 
ventive measures; "an ounce of preven¬ 
tion is worth a pound of cure” in this 
case. The most successful method, I be¬ 
lieve, is first to remove the borers—no 
matter what the size of the tree, whether 
it is just from the nursery or a 12-year 
old tree. Examine it carefully and re 
move the borers. Then paint the trunk 
from a couple of inches below the surface 
of the ground to 12 or 18 inches above 
the ground with strong lime-sulphur 
wash, to which has been added one ounc * 
of arsenate of load (paste) to each gal¬ 
lon of liquid. This can be applied with 
a brush or with a spraying outfit. One 
man to each row—two men to an outfit— 
can apply the solution as fast as a man 
can walk. The first application should 
be made late in May so as to be there 
when the first moths fly, and two o r 
three subsequent sprayings or enough to 
protect the trunk, should be made. The 
moths will not lay their eggs on the tree 
with this material there, and if any 
young borers do get on they will be killed 
by the arsenic, so that there is little 
danger of trees so protected becoming 
infested. At the recent meeting of the 
Pennsylvania State Horticultural x\s- 
sociation at York this method cams up 
for discussion. Prof. II. A. Surface, 
stated that he found it very effective and 
that the cost was only one-tenth as much 
as digging out the borers by hand. Others 
who have followed Prof. Surface’s advice 
stated that they had found the “worming” 
of the trees unnecessary when the trunks 
had been well protected during the season 
when the moths fly. Even if the trees 
are protected I would still advise looking 
them over once a year for stray borers. 
Other Preventives. — Other sub¬ 
stances for protecting the trunks have 
been tried with varying results. White 
paint, printers’ ink, and a couple of 
brands of insect lime, are, according to 
the late Prof. Slingerland of Cornell, 
either injurious or fatal to the trees. Gas 
tar has been used with varying results, 
both beneficial and detrimental, so that 
it is not wise to recommend it. Tar or 
heavy manila paper, if sunk in the ground 
a couple of inches and tied tightly about 
the trunk of the tree 12 to 18 inches from 
the ground has proved very effective, and 
while expensive, it is more economical 
than digging out the borers by hand. 
Banking with earth or ashes during the 
period when the moths fly has also been 
very effective. Dry earth or the ashes 
are mounted about the trunk up to eight 
or 10 inches in height during the egg- 
laying season—June to September. This 
induces the moth to lay the eggs higher 
up and the resulting larvae will enter near 
the top of the dust pile. When the 
mound is removed in the Fall, these can 
easily be detected and removed. But 1 
believe from Prof. Surface’s experience 
in his own orchard of about one hundred 
acres that the spraying with lime-sulphur 
wash is the most economical and effective 
preventive for the peach tree borer. 
P. T. B. 
Wheat in Schuyler Co., N. Y, 
Do you know of anyone who has made 
a success of raising Spring wheat in 
Schuyler or Seneca Co., N. Y., as we 
understand it has not been raised in our 
vicinity for years? When should it be 
sown and how much to the acre? 
Schuyler Co., N. Y. m. m. c. 
I do not know of any Spring wheat 
being grown here in several years. A 
neighbor of mine about 20 years ago got 
some Spring wheat from a friend in Wis¬ 
consin and grew it for a few years; it 
yielded about 20 bushels per acre, was 
sown the same time as oats and about 
flic same quantity per acre. As Winter 
wheat has always done well here there 
have been but few attempts made to grow 
the Spring wheat. A. H. PRINCE. 
Mistress (who has just drunk a glass 
of water in the hall) : “That water had 
a queer taste, Jane.” “There ain’t a 
live germ in it, mum. I ran it through i 
the meat-chopper before I brought it 
to you.”—Tit-Bits. 
With a Lauson Frost King “on the job” you have reliable 
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fa 
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218 N. W. Street New Holstein, Wis. 
ine mlverosen * 
iniinti"^ •ii<iiif|iuii|iiiii| 
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Dept. D 
Warren, Pa. 
RUN ON KEROSENE 
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BOOKS WORTH READING 
ITow Crops Grow, Johnson. 1.50 
Celery Culture, Reattle.50 
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