1914. 
THE! ROUtA-I* NEW-YORKER 
481 
THE PRUNING OF APPLE TREES. 
Part IV. 
The Grime3 apple gives very little 
trouble, as it is not a rapid grower and 
is spreading in its habits of growth. 
Care must be exercised in keeping the 
center open and preventing the crowd¬ 
ing of the branches. 
There is much discussion as to the 
height to start the head. Some say one 
to two feet high ; others say take off the 
lower limbs, as they interfere with culti¬ 
vation. If the orchard is a small one and 
there are no regular orchard tools with 
which to do the work, it would be best 
to head not higher than three feet. This 
will permit the use of any ordinary farm 
tool needed in the cultivation, and still 
would not be too high for profitable 
pruning, spraying and gathering of fruit. 
Where the size of the orchard makes it 
pro/ifable to buy special orchard tools, 
the trees will be better in every way if 
headed as low as 32 to IS inches. The 
lower the head, the less damage there 
will be from wind, and the cost of spray¬ 
ing, pruning and picking of fruit will 
be less. 
There are several diseases which have 
to be considered in the pruning of the 
apple trees. The pear blight, both on 
twigs and in the bark, has already been 
mentioned, with the treatment given; 
pruning is the only effective method of 
combating this disease. Great care 
should be exercised in preventing spread¬ 
ing the disease with the tools. Corrosive 
sublimate is a dependable disinfectant. 
Black knot and bitter rot cankers are 
best controlled by the same methods. 
There has been little trouble from these 
two diseases except in Red Astrachan 
and a local variety known as the Demo¬ 
crat. 
There are several reasons for pruning 
or disbudding: First, to modify the vigor 
of the tree. Second, to produce larger 
or better fruit. Third, to keep tree 
within manageable shape and limit. 
Fourth, to change the habit of the plant 
to more or less fruit or wood produc¬ 
tion. Fifth, to remove superfluous or in¬ 
jurious parts. Sixth, to facilitate spray¬ 
ing and harvesting. Seventh, to facili¬ 
tate tillage, and to train to some desired 
form. After reading over all the infor¬ 
mation obtainable, then go ahead and 
consult the tree. Study its needs care¬ 
fully, then select the best grade of tools 
possible to get, and then go slow. It is 
sometimes easier to bring a limb back 
to health and vigor than to produce a 
new limb. The lower limbs will bear 
fruit if they can get sunlight and air. 
Above all things avoid extremes and ad¬ 
vice without reason. If a man can’t 
“tell why” then be careful how you fol¬ 
low the advice. r. b. gilman. 
New Jersey. 
Canada Peas Before Tomatoes. 
Would it be a good plan to fertilize 
and sow Canada peas in March to turn 
under first of June, on ground where I 
intend to set tomatoes for canning fac¬ 
tory use? Would the tomatoes make use 
of the nitrogen gathered and fixed by the 
Peas? f. L. M. 
Portland, N. Y. 
In this case we should use a moderate 
amount of fertilizer on the Canada field 
peas, and also use oats in the combina¬ 
tion. The oats will not add any nitrogen, 
but they will add humus, which most 
soils need. At the right time plow these 
oats and peas under, and use a dressing 
of lime. Your tomatoes will then have 
the benefit of the fertilizer which was 
added to the peas, and also of the nitro¬ 
gen gathered by them. This plan of us¬ 
ing the fertilizer upon a manurial crop 
is usually a good one, as it produces an 
extra yield of the crop, and, of course, 
that means more nitrogen taken from the 
soil, and more humus at the same time. 
Seeding Alfalfa With Oats. 
I have a couple of acres I wish to seed 
to Alfalfa. 1 sowed some last August 
and it is doing very well, had a good 
stand. I sowed oats in the Spring, cut 
the oats in .1 uly and cultivated vigorous¬ 
ly, liming, inoculating and sowing. It 
came up well, but mixed with a vast 
amount of weeds, wild radish. This will 
doubtless disappear in the Spring. I 
have found it to be an annual weed and 
will be crowded out. I should like your 
views regarding the two acres I propose 
sowing. Half of it I seeded with rye 
and half with clover. The clover will 
probably be Winter-killed. The two 
acres have been in grass about four years, 
with no fertilizer put on in that time. 
I thought to fertilize a little with the 
rye and clover. I propose to do as fol¬ 
lows and would like your advice: Turn 
under the soil in the Spring, lime it 
pretty thoroughly, inoculate it with Al¬ 
falfa soil and sow oats and Alfalfa to¬ 
gether; cut the oats in July. If the Al¬ 
falfa comes up could probably get a cut¬ 
ting of that in August, and it would be 
up high enough to be ready for Winter. 
Would this, in event of success, be saving 
the great work of cultivating for a month 
and the growth of our vast quantities of 
weeds? Am I proposing something prac¬ 
tical? Should I fertilize after plowing 
under the rye and such clover as may not 
be killed? If so with what? Manure is 
very high priced. Do you suggest any¬ 
thing better than oats to sow with the 
Alfalfa? w. 
New Canaan, Conn. 
We think it doubtful if in your lati¬ 
tude Spring seeding of Alfalfa with oats 
will be best. We have found August 
seeding with no nurse crop with the Al¬ 
falfa better. We should seed the oats 
alone, or with Canada peas, and cut this 
crop in early July. Then work the soil 
thoroughly and seed the Alfalfa alone, 
using the inoculating soil and also 350 
pounds fine bone and 150 pounds muriate 
of potash per acre. While this will mean 
more labor and expense than the Spring 
seeding with oats, we believe it will pay. 
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