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Yol. LXXIII. No. 4249. 
NEW YORK, APRIL 4. 1914. 
WEEKLY $1.00 PER YEAR. 
TRAINING A SADDLE HORSE. 
How It Is Done. 
[On page 360 appeared the following request by 
B. D.: 
“I have a little mare of native stock, but sired by 
a well-bred horse of the carriage type; she is coming 
five, trimly built, and weighs, in good condition, 950 
pounds. She has just been broken to drive and shows 
a very pleasant disposition, with a fair amount of life 
and nerve. Having no use for her on the farm, and 
not wishing to dispose of her at the price such horses 
bring, I would like to make a saddle and driving pony 
of her, for my own pleasure and that of my wife. I 
have handled horses and colts, from my youth up, but 
know nothing about training a horse to the proper gaits 
under the saddle.”! 
According to his description B. D. has a valuable 
animal. With a very little training she will make a 
the canter. Leave out the fancy gaits. A lazy 
slow walker is an abomination. 
Get a good McClellan army saddle, your size, with 
good stout girths or cinches and a good broad folded 
blanket. Put it on carefully. Cinch it securely. 
Teach her to stand a good stout cinch. Teach the 
horse to stand for saddling. No fussing. Put on the 
blanket, smooth and without wrinkles, the broadest 
fold next the horse. No matter if the blanket looks 
big and clumsy. I would not use a ••gag” bit. just a 
plain smooth-jointed bit that she can hold is bet¬ 
ter. In fact I like a straight easy bit for most 
horses; a single simple rein. Get her used to 
mounting. If she is a pet this mounting can he 
taught in the stall. Get her to understand that she 
must stand still until you are placed in the saddle 
with the heel or with the whip, just lightly. Some¬ 
times in teaching the walk one has to “nag” her 
just a little, but always hold her to the walk. I 
think B. I). knows just how to do this. Always sit 
straight and square in the saddle in teaching the 
walk, no false motions, and use the word “walk.” 
Also use the same word "walk” in driving lessons. 
After the first few lessons she will take pride in 
walking briskly. The walk is the best selling gait. 
A horse shows better under a walk anyway hooked 
up. So teach the walk first. 
Now the canter. If the road is right and she 
wants to move out a little, lean slightly forward, 
press a trifle more down in the stirrup. Get the 
reins a trifle closer. Hold them a trifle higher. As 
you lean forward chirrup and touch very slightly 
AND THE COLT WHICH WILL MAKE UEI 
DRIVING IIORSE. Fig. 211 
useful animal. One great trouble in training such 
horses is that we are liable to ask too much of 
them. We try to teach them too much, and that all 
at once. It requires some skill and judgment to 
train a saddle horse. First the rider should know 
how to ride; unless he does he will not know what 
to expect from his mount. Next, much depends upon 
the equipment, the saddle and the bridle and their 
adjustment. It would take several pages to 
describe all these details. However, if B. I), is a 
natural horseman and a good rider he can soon 
have his mare broken to saddle, and that too with¬ 
out at all impairing her usefulness as a buggy ani¬ 
mal. First then, do not let too many people man¬ 
age her. Have an understanding with your wife as 
to what you expect of the horse and what you are 
trying to teach the animal. Use the same motions 
and the same words. Do not think of teaching sev¬ 
eral gaits. The practical gaits are the walk and 
(same as to the carriage). Have one word to stand: 
"Whoa.” Have one word to go, "Get up” or the 
"chirrup.” If she is higlistrung do not fool her, 
but he ready when she is ready, hut always use the 
word or signal. 
Now make her walk. Do this without chafing or 
fretting her. Gradually teach her how to carry her 
head, not too high, not too low. Do not let her 
“hog the hit.” It is all in how you hold your reins; 
a firm hold, a gentle hand, a flexible wrist, the 
reins crossed in the left hand, the light stiff whip in 
the right hand. Always carry the whip, she likes to 
watch it, and it keeps your hand occupied. 
If she will walk let her walk. Going away from 
home is not the best time to feach the walk. Com¬ 
ing home is best, three miles and back first trip. 
Soon make it five miles. She will learn the walk 
best when somewhat wearied and on the way home. 
If she does not walk up "purty brisk,” touch her 
with the whip. The whip is held pointing to the 
flank, close to the horse, and the butt of the whip 
points to the thumb. Never carry the whip high, 
or point forward. Never carry the reins way up 
in the air. I was very awkward when I first began 
to ride, and it would have been a difficult task had 
it not been for the instructions given me by an old 
cavalry officer. He said: "Keep your reins tight, 
but do not pull hard. Keep your toes pointed 
straight ahead. Always press the knees against the 
side of the horse. Do not carry the reins way up 
in the air. And above all things keep your elbows 
down by your side so that your forearms are hori¬ 
zontal. No horse can bj made an easy rider if you 
let your arms or your legs flop.” Do not try to put 
oh any fancy English or park frills. Hold her head 
comfortably steady. Let her canter. Learn your 
seat. Learn your reins. Learn your horse's mouth. 
As in driving, she should draw a very little, about 
