648 
April 25, 
A SIMPLE HOG RACK. 
H. R. H., of Ohio, asks how to build a 
simple and efficient hog-rack. The ac¬ 
companying plan, shown in cuts, is one 
which T. M. Palmer, of Ashtabula 
County, Ohio, is using. It required but 
a little time for him to build it. and the 
plan may be adapted to any kind of lum¬ 
ber at hand. The rack should be about 
five feet long, and from 18 to 20 inches 
wide, 34 inches deep. Four standards 
of 1x4 inch stuff are used at the corners. 
Wider stuff may be used. For the side 
boards the builder used inch boards, 
eight inches wide. He used three boards 
to the side and allowed the middle board 
to extend at either end 10 inches for 
handles. At the top of the rack a 1x4 
inch piece is nailed across and another 
across the end at the top. leaving an 
opening an inch wide in which the end 
gate is placed. A 1x4 inch piece is 
nailed across the bottom at the ends, and 
the bottom boards come within an inch of 
these end strips so as to allow the end 
gates to slip in and be held firmly. The 
end gates may be made of two boards, the 
outside edges of which fit closely against 
the sides of the rack, and a one-inch 
square strip nailed across the lower edge. 
Care should be taken that about four 
inches in the clear should be left on the 
end boards, and here should be nailed a 
1x4 strip with slightly projecting ends. 
These ends will prevent the end gate 
from falling through the rack, when it 
is lifted or tilted. By removing both the 
end gates, the rack can be used as a 
Ends Of Hog Rack. 
chute, and for this purpose cleats should 
be nailed eight inches apart in the bottom 
of the rack. The end gates may be re¬ 
moved, the rack turned over a hog, and 
they will slip in the bottom openings as 
well as the top. When the bottom is 
used for the top, the rack may be turned 
over on a hog and it can be pushed along 
with the hog. In this way a hog may be 
loaded in any kind of a low-down vehicle 
or sled, where the animal will back. 
It is not necessary to use lumber the 
dimensions of Mr. Palmer’s specifica¬ 
tions, and he advises two 1x4 inch boards 
in place of the eight-inch side board, and 
but one on the side may be used in the 
middle projecting beyond the end for 
handles. The rack will be a great deal 
better than “any old thing,” that can 
be put together without plan or system. 
WALTER JACK. 
TRAINING A SADDLE HORSE. 
I would recommend that B. D. (page 
3G6) get a bridle with both curb and 
snaffle bits, as he will need both. In 
speaking of two of the gaits, I do not 
know which are desired, as there are 
five. A very good combination of gaits 
is the walk, trot and canter, of a tbree- 
gaited horse. To teach the horse to walk, 
ride her in the walk for several lessons, 
urge her to do her best and keep her at 
it during the entire ride. When she will 
keep it up without lagging you may teach 
her to trot. A horse must be able to 
walk four miles per hour at least. Use 
the snaffle rein mostly, the curb just 
tight enough to keep the head in position. 
Urge her from the walk to the trot, by 
a touch of both heels, and the whip if 
necessary. LTse the snaffle mostly also, 
but keep it more closely against the jaw. 
No attempt should be made, at first, to 
produce speed, but an easy smooth action. 
After an easy, smooth and continuous 
trot is gained, you should increase the 
speed gradually. 
You should always post when riding 
the trot. It makes it much easier to ride 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
and saves the horse a great deal of iar. 
After you have the trot developed to 
your satisfaction, you may teach the can¬ 
ter. If, however, you wish your horse 
to single-foot you should teach the singly 
foot first, as it is harder to teach after 
the horse has learned to canter. Start 
the canter from the walk ; if you let her 
go from the trot to the canter she will be 
apt to break into the canter when you 
wish her to trot. At first she will go at 
a fast gallop, but you should slow her 
down gradually to a slow canter, the 
slower the better. It will take some 
practice and a great deal of patience to 
teach this. 
Mount the horse, draw the right snaf¬ 
fle rein until the head is turned slightly 
to the right. When ready to start, 
tighten the left snaffle, relax the right 
and lift the curb slightly, followed at 
the same instant with a touch of the 
heels in the flank, use the whip if neces¬ 
sary on the flank. This checks the left 
shoulder, and releases the right, causing 
the horse to lead with the right. A 
slight lift on the curb assists the front 
quarters to rise, thus keeping up the gait. 
Do not let the horse break step, when 
disunited check her and start again. 
When riding this gait do not stand in 
the stirrups leaning forward with arms 
flopping, but sit close, gripping the sad¬ 
dle with the knees, and hold the arms 
close to the sides; keep a graceful posi¬ 
tion. There is almost no end to what 
you may teach a horse if you know how, 
and have the patience. It will not in¬ 
jure your horse to ride it if you do not I 
let her get the habit of breaking into the 
canter when trotting. h. h. f. 
Jerome, Mich. 
Overheated Horse. 
I have a horse that is a bad blower 
in hot weather, and does not sweat. Can 
you advise me how to overcome it? 
New Jersey. h. s. p. 
The horse has been overheated at some 
time in his life and will never be likely 
to work comfortably in warm weather. 
Clip him in Spring. Work him in cool 
of morning and evening. Do not feed 
hay at noon in hot weather. Shade his 
head when at work. Feed oats, bran and 
hay. a. s. a. 
Indigestion. 
I have a small grey mare about 19 
years old that is troubled with catarrh 
of the bowels; has had it more or less 
for several years; at times not showing 
it for a long time, then it would come on 
again. At present it is quite bad. I 
have been feeding her mixed hay and long 
corn fodder cut about two inches long, 
one feed a day of the fodder; for grain 
about one quart of meal, or the same 
quantity of shelled corn ground with 
oats nearly equal parts; sometimes from 
two to five ears of whole corn at each 
feed. She is in good flesh and a good 
feeder. Had her teeth filed last Fall. I 
would like to know how to cure hei\ 
Delaware. w. h. w. 
Do not feed ground feed to a horse. 
Feed sound old oats and mixed clover 
hay, without cut corn fodder. Allow not 
over a pound of grain and a pound of 
hay per hundred pounds of body weight 
as a day’s ration until she is well; then 
slightly increase the amount if she has 
work to do. Never let her stand a single 
day idle in the stable. If the scouring 
persists, mix in each feed a heaping ta¬ 
blespoonful of a mixture of two parts 
powdered wood charcoal and one part 
each of powdered catechu, ground ginger 
root, subnitrate of bismuth and prepared 
chalk. a. s. A. 
“Who gave the bride away?” asked 
Mi's. Evans of her daughter, who had 
just returned from the wedding. “Her 
little brother,” replied the daughter; “he 
stood up in the middle of the ceremony, 
and yelled, ‘Hurrah, Blanche, you’ve got 
him at last!’”—Credit Lost. 
The Atlas Cement concrete feed 
floor and hog wallow mean healthier 
hogs and bigger profits. Ask the 
neighbor who’s got ’em and ask your 
dealer for Atlas Portland Cement. 
PORTLAN 
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