1914. 
ess 
, Farm Engineering. 
Leaky Tank. 
W. H. M., page 447, is bothered with 
leaky water storage tank. Draw all 
water from tank and cover inside, in¬ 
cluding bottom, with metal lath or one- 
inch mesh poultry wire, using plug or 
piece of pipe to preserve opening for 
pipe, and plaster with three coats of ce¬ 
ment plaster, using some hair in first 
coat, applying succeeding coats just as 
preceding one is drying. Make first and 
second coats rough to hold next coat bet¬ 
ter. Take one part good lime paste, 
three parts sand and mix thoroughly into 
heavy mortar; then add two parts ce¬ 
ment with water to “temper” and ap¬ 
ply. For first coat add hair, moistened, 
to lime and sand and have thoroughly 
worked into mixture. After dry the sur¬ 
face may be coated with some of the 
waterproofing compounds that may help 
make waterproof. Alum is recommended 
mixed with the cement. It must be re¬ 
membered that cement is not waterproof, 
and when wet beyond saturation will 
filter some moisture. To make it water¬ 
proof it must have some impervious coat¬ 
ing. But W. H. M. will find if he follows 
above directions he will have only an oc¬ 
casional drop, here and there. Fasten 
wire or lath securely and do not try to 
make the wire, if wire be used, lie too 
snug to staves—leave room for plaster to 
clinch. I have an outdoor water tank 
so treated, and will give a stave silo a 
similar lining—I believe the cheapest way 
to build a first-class silo. W. F. il. 
Pennsylvania. 
Waterproofing a Cellar. 
Regarding the inquiry of A. S., on 
page 447, relating to waterproofing a 
cellar, I will say, that the sure way 
would be to mop over the present con¬ 
crete floor with pitch, and up the wall 
as high as water would come in. Then 
lay down a thickness of tarred paper 
all over the cellar bottom and mop this 
over with pitch, as in the beginning. 
Then add another covering of paper and 
another coating of pitch. This is same 
as first covering for tar and gravel roof. 
Above this, put about two inches of con¬ 
crete. If the cellar has water in it, 
continuously, a depression must be made, 
either outside the cellar or inside, at 
the lowest point, and the water kept 
pumped out until the cement is laid. I 
understand there are preparations made, 
which the manufacturers guarantee, that 
consist of material ground so fine that by 
applying it to concrete, it fills the pores 
so tight that water is kept out. With 
this I have had no experience, however’. 
Maine. j. H. R. 
Cement Will Renew the Pails. 
There are a thousand and one ways in 
which cement may be applied on the 
farm. Here is one of the simple ways 
which makes a sack of cement more than 
pay its way. A lot of us have pails 
which have been used either in the milk- 
yard or watering stock,- which are useless 
because of holes in the bottom. Some of 
these may be too near the scrap heap for 
repair, yet by mixing a little cement and 
spreading it over the bottom of the pail, 
its life will be continued this season at 
least. The pail would make a good one 
in which to feed calves, and for such pur¬ 
poses as an old pail is used about the 
house and barn. The pail may seem a lit¬ 
tle heavier, but the use of the cement 
Will pay. WALTER jack. 
Engine for Pumping from Well. 
My two horse power kerosene engine 
‘s speeded to 650 revolutions per minute, 
equipped with six-inch drive pulley. I 
wish to belt to 16-foot line shaft and op¬ 
erate pump-jack, that is equipped with 
12-inch pulley and geared five to one, 
the stroke being six, eight or 10-inch. 
The weii is 158 feet deep and I believe 
50 strok s per minute would be last 
enough to un the pump. Will you ad¬ 
vise what size pulleys to use on line shaft 
to operate pump at this speed? 
New York. K. w. a. 
The particular sizes of the pulleys you 
use on the countershaft must depend 
upon what you can get readily. As I un¬ 
derstand it, you wish the 12-inch pulley 
on your pump-jack to run at 250 revolu¬ 
tions per minute. Then the pulleys on 
the countershaft would bear the ratio to 
each other of 650 to 250, if the engine 
pulley were the same size as the pump 
jack pulley. It is half the size, however, 
so the pulleys on the countershaft would 
be in the ratio of one-half that given, or 
050 divided by 250 times one-half, which 
equals 13 divided by 10. The pulleys 
may be in this ratio, that is, one 13 
inches in diameter and the other one 10 
inches, or one 6% inches and the other 
live or any other combination having the 
ratio of 13 to 10. The larger one of 
the two should be belted up to the engine. 
Let us see how this works out. The 
belt running from the engine to the 
countershaft pulley is an endless belt. 
Therefore every part of it travels the 
same distance in the same period of time. 
A point on the engine pulley in one min¬ 
ute would travel around the circumfer¬ 
ence of the six-inch pulley 650 times. 
It would go, therefore, 650x6x3.1416 
inches. A point on the counter shaft 
pulley must go the same distance but we 
THE RURAL* NEW-YORKER 
know it will go SxDx.3.1416 inches where 
S is the speed of the countershaft an<l_ D 
is the diameter of that pulley. So 650x 
6x3.1416 equals SxDx3.1416 and as the 
constant cancels out 650x6 divided by D 
equals S. By using the same argument 
in considering the belt from countershaft 
to pump, we find that 250x12x3.1416 
equals Sxdx3.1416 where S is the speed 
of the countershaft and d is the diameter 
of the second pulley on the shaft. From 
this we find, by cancelling the constant, 
that 250x12 divided by d equals S. And 
in both of the cases S, the speed of tin; 
countershaft is the same so we can say 
that 650x6 divided by D equals 250x12 
divided by d. Therefore, 
3900 _ 3000 . d _ 3000 _ 10 
D — d ° r D 3906 “ 13 
The smaller you make the pulleys, the 
faster the countershaft will rotate. I 
should recommend the 10 and 13-inch 
size, although they will cost more than 
the five and B^-inch size. The difference 
will not be great. R. P. c. 
Cement for Steps and Walls. 
How can I figure out the quantities of 
sand, gravel and cement, required in 
making walks, steps, walls, etc.? The 
mixture would be six to one. The walks 
would be a three-inch base with one-inch 
top of two in one. The steps would 
be seven inches riser, eight inches tread, 
six inches stringer and would have a 
finish one inch thick of two in one. 
No. Adams, Mass. G. w. j. 
By a one to six mixture I presume you 
mean one part of cement, two parts of 
sand and four parts of gravel. This is 
called by concrete workers a one-two- 
four mixture. With these proportions, 
two bags of cement, 3cubic feet of 
sand, and seven cubic feet of gravel when 
mixed together will make eight cubic feet 
of concrete finished. I think this is al¬ 
together too good a mixture to use for 
the purposes you mention. I would sug¬ 
gest that you use a mixture of one part 
cement, 2% parts sand and five parts 
gravel. With this mixture two bags of I 
cement. 4% cubic feet of sand and 8% 
cubic feet of gravel will make 10 cubic 
feet of concrete. The sand and gravel 
are always measured by volume. Any 
kind of a box will do as long as you 
know the contents in cubic feet. It 
would be best to make a box without a 
bottom and just large enough so that i 
if it is laid on a mixing board and filled . 
with sand level full once, you will have 
enough sand to mix with two bags of 
cement, while if filled with stone twice, 
you will have the proper amount of stone. ' 
Such a box for the last given mixture 
would contain 4% cubic feet, so it could 
well be one foot deep, 21 inches wide, and 
30 inches long. Shovel the box full, 
level it off without ramming or packing j 
the contents, lift the box and you have 
the proper proportions. For the finish¬ 
ing or wearing course, the mixture can 
be one bag of cement to two cubic feet of I 
sand or. to use the same box as above. ! 
mark off one inch down from the top on j 
the inside, a line all around the box. Fill 
with sand up to this line and you will 
have about four cubic feet. Mix this 
aihount with two bags of cement. The 
resulting mortar will have a bulk of 
about 4*4 cubic feet. 
The exact proportioning of materials 
and the volume of the resulting concrete 
or mortar has been the subject of pro¬ 
longed controversy. As a result there 
are two reasonably good formulas for de¬ 
termining the amount of sand or gravel 
in a cubic yard of concrete. 
Barrels of cement per cubic yard of ! 
Concrete equals, 
6.75 
Parts of gravel to one part cement 
Cubic feet of sand per cu. yd. concrete 
Parts sand to 1 part of cement 
equals 27x—-- 
Parts gravel to 1 part of cement 
These are very nearly i. accordance 
with the calculations made by experts, j 
For example, let us apply it to a 1-2 I 
3 /v5 mixture. There would be 
6.75 
-or 1.35 barrels of cement, and 
5 
2*4 
27x—-—or 13.5 cubic feet of sand and 
5 
2x13.5 or 27 c lie 'cot of gravel 
in one cubic yard of concrete These 
amounts are obviously too large by about 
12 per cent. If we take 88 per cent, of I 
the totals given, we will get much nearer | 
the truth. That will give us 1.2 barrels 
of cement, 12 cubic feet of sand, and 24 
cubic feet of gravel. 
The above formulas are the best of 
the lot given and are the simplest but the 
results are, as shown, too large, so apply 
them with care, taking for most mixtures, 
about S8 per cent, of the total given. 
R. p. c. 
Mrs. Smith was engaging a new serv¬ 
ant, and sat facing the latest applicant. 
“I hope,” said she, “that you had no 
angry words with your last mistress be¬ 
fore leaving.” “Oh, dear, mum; none 
whatever,” the prospective maid replied, 
with a toss of her head. “While she 
was having her bath, I just locked the 
bathroom door, took all my things, and j 
went away as quietly as possible.”— I 
Youth’s Companion. 
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