804 THE RURAL NEW-YORKER June 27, 
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Selecting 
close to the top crown. 
Making A IIat. —To make this shape 
one would need a piece of either 
black or white frame wire, depending 
upon whether the hat is dark or light, 
costing 20 cents; one spool of tie wire, 
costing five cents for uncovered and 20 
cents for covered; or one could buy three 
INFERENCES IN STYLE.—It is a small dart in the wire at the headsize. yards in a millinery store, which would 
easy in these days to study news- It is best to bend both sides in order to be sufficient for the hat; eight yards of 
a H ajt 
Suitable for Portly Women 
‘By Esther A. Cosse— - 
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papers, magazines and fashion books and 
thus keep well informed as to the changes 
make them the same and keep the head- straw braid, which retails from five cents 
size even. If the hat is too large, loosen a yard and up; one yard of covering, for 
the outside edge of material covering hat, 10 cents, two quills for 15 cents and two 
and loosen edge wire on frame, beginning yards of No. 12 black velvet ribbon for 
at back and cut off. from each brace wire 20 cents a yard. It can be lined with a 
around the hat. If it is too large on one small piece of silk, or piece of lawn, or 
side, graduate the wires when cutting the of old ribbon which has been pressed, 
braces, but remember that a quarter The hat would then cost you but $1.25. 
of an inch on each wire will make the In making the frame you will need a 
outside wire almost two inches shorter, pair of nippers or pinchers to cut and 
If the hair is plain at the neck, avoid tighten the wires. Cut off four wires 
long back shapes. Study the right side 23 inches long; one 3S inches; three 30 
back line and if it projects too far from inches long; one 32 inches and another 
the head, do not buy it It will be right 10 inches. The headsize wire, or the one 
for the one with abundant hair who nearest the head, must be made large 
wears it arranged low in her neck, but enough to slip over the head comfortably Peking the quills, sew a piece represent- 
it is not advisable to use with the hair and then allowed an inch larger for the a knot. A small bow is made 
arranged high. The short stout women, covering. It is impossible to say just 
ing the braid at the back you sew it 
around, leaving it about half an inch 
over the edge. As you get to the back, 
and the brim is completed, draw the 
braid up to the crown and start at the 
crown and continue around and around 
until you reach the center of the crown. 
Then cut off the braid and turn it un¬ 
der and finish off neatly. If you look 
you will see that the braid contains a 
thread which you can draw up on the in¬ 
side edge of the braid. It sets smooth if 
this thread is drawn up as it fits the 
braid to the shape. This must bo done 
to the crown as it will pucker if the braid 
is left straight, and not look well. The 
facing is put in last and the outer edge 
is caught to the edge of the outside braid 
by slip stitching with invisible stitches. 
Trimming. —It is trimmed with two 
quills laid on at the side and finished 
with a small bow with loops and ends 
six inches long; one loop and one end 
each way. When the bow is tacked over 
the place where the stitches show from 
or one with a short neck, must avoid the 
large or very small hat. The large one 
Hat Suitable For a Stout Figure. 
in hair dressing, etc. The tall slender 
woman must not wear her hair too high, 
hence only certain hats become her. 
Those of medium size, or a little larger, 
trimmed low, are the most suitable, es¬ 
pecially if her hair is fluffy about her 
face. The small hat will make her look 
taller and older, while the low, broad 
one will make her appear broader. When 
selecting a hat it is advisable to ask the 
saleswoman to put a pin in the center 
front, where it can be left until one gets 
home and tries it on and becomes ac¬ 
customed to the shape. Or better still, 
put one in yourself, then you will be able 
to fit it to your head just as you saw it 
before making the purchase. Never be 
satisfied with a hat until it fits the head 
comfortably. There are several ways of 
having this done. If it sets too far down 
on the head, do not have a straight, or 
even a plain round band set in. It 
adds to the weight and is unnecessary. 
Fitting The Hat. —Always try to ar¬ 
range the hair in the way women of 
your type wear it, since it has been fitted 
to a certain shaped head. Of course, 
some will have more hair than others, 
still in these days women with little hair 
can find a good substitute. But the head- 
size allows for those with little or much 
hair; thus the use of a band in some 
cases is a necessity. Before selecting a 
band see if the fault can be remedied by 
shirring the lining up tighter. If it is 
what the headsize should be since it var¬ 
ies with every person, but it runs from 
24 to 2S inches. Take one of the 23 
inch wires and bend upward one inch 
from the edge, over two inches and fasten 
to headsize wire by twisting around it; 
314 inches, bend over, measure 8% inch¬ 
es, bend downward ; 314, bend and fast¬ 
en to headsize same as the other side di¬ 
rectly opposite; two inches, bend up¬ 
ward. Put each of the 23-inch wires on 
in this way. the only difference is with 
the direct side wire, which must measure 
814 inches across the top of the crown 
and tacked at the right side back. The 
lining is then put in by holding the hat 
up to you and starting in the center back 
and sewing in with double stitches about 
one inch long on the wrong side. Turn 
the lining in after you get all around 
and shir up the other end, or run it with 
an ordinary running stitch and insert No. 
1 ribbon to draw it up. This completes 
the hat, which if bought in a store would 
not cost less than five dollars and is 
practical for the woman who has but one 
hat, as it can be made in any color and 
the black trimming will make it appro¬ 
priate to wear with any combination. 
The wires must be fastened firmly and TIl f matena,s are always easy to get, 
tightened with the nippers or pinchers. 
You next take one of the 30-ineh lengths 
Modified Turban Suitable For Wom¬ 
an With a Round Face. 
would make her appear too short and dis¬ 
play her figure to poor advantage. The 
small hat also makes her look broad and 
not well proportioned. Only medium¬ 
sized shapes should be worn. They may 
be trimmed very high (usually it is 
necessary) as it adds to the height and 
dignity of appearance of the stout woman. 
Colors And Shapes. —The woman 
with a round face should use round 
hats. If she desires longer shapes dress 
the hair full about the face and low in 
the neck, but the hair arranged moder¬ 
ately high is usually the best for the 
round-faced woman. Another very inl¬ 
and in these days of parcel post one may 
send even to the large cities, and it will 
cost but a few cents. Write your order 
thus: 
One piece black (or white) frame 
wire.20 
One spool uncovered tie wire..* .05 
One yard black (or white) crinoline, 
(heavy) ..... io 
Eight yards - braid at 5c.40 
Two black quills at 15c.30 
Two yards black velvet ribbon at 20c .40 
$1.45 
too long to shir up tight have it cut portant thing is the selection of colors, 
off, then shir it close. This will raise Most women imagine they must wear 
the hat considerably and save using a black hats year in and year out. Why 
band. If the crown is too small, let out 
the lining and the hat will set dow r n 
farther over the hair. If this will not 
do, then have a band with a wire out¬ 
side covered with a bias strip of velvet 
and a piece of ribbon sewed in the inner 
edge which can be drawn up or let out at 
will. This must be made of velvet one- 
eighth of a yard wide and just large 
enough to sew into the crown. This 
band has been designed especially for 
women using applied hair. When they 
use it all the ribbon is let out, when they 
wear the hat without the extra hair, 
the ribbon is drawn up tighter, making 
the head size smaller. Another way to 
make the headsize smaller is to take a 
do they think that? It has been said 
Hat Becoming. But Trimming Unsuit¬ 
able. A Bow of This Size and 
Shape Annoys All Who Are 
Near, and Strikes Back of Car¬ 
riage When Riding. 
and put around the top of the crown, 
which is fastened with the tie wire. The 
many times that black looks well with outside wire is next put on. This is the 
any colored costume. This is not strict- largest wire and must measure 36 inches 
ly true. Certain shades of blue, green and must be lapped at least four inches, 
and brown should never be worn with but it is better to have it lap more. It 
black, as the colors do not harmonize, is fastened to the brace wires by twist- 
but in many cases women follow this as ing the braces around it and fastening 
a reason for their selection. The per- firmly with nippers, or the frame will 
son with high color should not select not be firm. The next largest wire is 
hats with a facing of warm colors, leave used for a brace around the inside, fast- 
that to those with no color, as they need ened with tie wire one inch from outside 
it to strengthen and give expression to wire. One is put around the side crown 
A Girl's Summer Clothes. 
I AM not a village dressmaker, but I am 
the mother of five married daughters, 
and I have always made their clothes 
with the exception of an occasional tail¬ 
ored coat or suit. I am very mnch inter¬ 
ested in the question of young girls’ 
clothes. It may be possible' that I can 
help some one who has this problem be¬ 
fore them at the present time. There are 
so many girls and young women who do 
not know how many pretty and inex¬ 
pensive materials there are on sale this 
year. We will begin with a pretty 
figured voile, at 25 cents a yard, and 40 
inches wide; make with a two-piece skirt 
their features. Ostrich feathers are be¬ 
coming to any type of woman, if the 
hat is used as a dress hat, but not for 
a hat which is used any time of day. 
Flowers are well, especially for the af- 
and another around the center of the 
crown. 
Covering The Frame. —The frame 
is then ready to be covered with 
c ... - - crinoline, which is stiff and quite heavy, 
piece of stiff brown paper long enough to ternoon or dress hats, but quills and This is pinned to the frame and fitted 
reach around the headsize; fold four 
times into a strip one inch wide and sew 
it around headsize just inside of the lin¬ 
ing. If this makes it too small, fold pa¬ 
per twice and insert. In some hats there 
will be a space at the side, which, if 
left, makes the hat unsteady on the head. 
Take a piece of cotton batting as long 
as the space and eover with velvet or silk 
the color of the hat, sew it in either in¬ 
side or on the outside of the lining. It is 
alwa’ys advisable to sew paper in hats 
for children, especially where a hair rib¬ 
bon is worn on the top of the hair, which 
causes the hat to be unsteady on the head. 
.Selecting The Frame. —For the 
made hat it is very easy to change a 
ribbons are the most practical. on lower side. A pin is put in the 
Styles In Trimming. —One of the covering at the center front and center 
most popular trimmings put on the back, then removed and put on the top, 
market this season is the cire, or stove- but the headsize must be cut out, which 
pipe finish ribbon. This is very high- is done by slashing it up to the crown 
ly finished and makes a pretty trimming, after cutting out a small circle in the 
but for one who does not have many hats, center. The crown is next covered and 
it is not yery practical, since it is finished all small plaits are drawn to the base of 
with very strong chemicals, and though the crown. This covering must be pinned aa< \ ^' vo circular flounces, kimono waist 
soft and pretty when new, it will not carefully as you go along. The facing of'white' not,' 'ill'' 25 'Ivuts 'a' yard** three-* 
wear as long as some of the old types, is put iu last and the edge is turned up fourths of a* yard will be enough. Five 
Method of Holding Nippers When 
Fastening The Wires. 
being pressed with a moderately hot iron straw is attached will not draw the frame noon teas. Another good, serviceable 
as when they were new. One hat that is out of shape. Eight yards of braid will dress for riding or driving is linen-colored 
becoming to most types of women is the be needed. Start at the center back, cra sh. It will cost from 35 to 75 cents, 
and 2% yards will be enough for two- 
wire frame. Loosen the hat lining, take sailor, which this year is made straight, which is the center of the piecing of the piece"" skirt to be won! "with "Muld * 
a pair of nippers or pinchers and bend but with a large headsize, which slips wire in the frame, and the center front blouses and shirtwaists, mbs. w. W s/ 
