868 
<3'ME RURAL NEW-VORKEK 
H .*. Making Ice Cream j) 
Fat of the Farm in Cool Comfort 
11 By Bertha Betts r:= : 
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W HAT IT IS.—That which was a 
luxury has become the almost 
everyday food of all classes, poor as well 
as rich. There are two general classes 
of ice cream: Plain or Philadelphia, or 
New York, and French or Neapolitan. 
The plain ice cream is a raw product 
made simply of cream of varying fat con¬ 
tent, sugar and flavoring. Commer¬ 
cially it generally contains some binder, 
but it rarely contains eggs. The French 
ice cream is a cooked product containing 
eggs, and is virtually a frozen custard. 
Ice cream is not generally considered a 
food, although its food value is rather 
high. It is mostly eaten for pleasure and 
considered a treat. Since it is eaten for 
this reason it is essential that flavor be 
made the first consideration. The choice 
of the kind of flavor is decidedly an in¬ 
dividual privilege, but no matter what 
flavor may be chosen there are certain 
definite factors which may make or mar 
the character of the finished product. 
To obtain the best flavor the following 
factors must be considered: 
1. The purity of the cream, whether 
free from all contamination and dirty 
odors as are likely to be collected in 
dirty stables or unsanitary methods of 
storage. 
2. The richness of the cream; Cream 
with a high fat content possesses a de¬ 
cidedly better flavor than docs a cream of 
low fat content. 
3. The sanitary condition of the freez¬ 
er can; it should be carefully washed, 
rinsed and aired before using. 
4. Ripening; if ice cream is allowed to 
stand for several hours after freezing the 
flavors become more thoroughly blended. 
5. A small amount of salt will help to 
bring out and enrich the flavor, but it 
must be added with care, one-eighth tea¬ 
spoon per quart is about right. 
Body and Texture. —Next consider 
body and texture. These terms are often 
used synonymously but mean quite differ¬ 
ent things. When speaking of body we 
mean the whole mass as a unit, while 
texture means the arrangement of parti¬ 
cles. The body should be firm, not mushy, 
nor on the other hand, rubbery. This char¬ 
acteristic is governed in part by the milk 
solids present. If cream is allowed to 
age, say 24 to 48 hours, keeping cool the 
while, it improves the body of the ice 
cream produced. Some substances known 
as fillers are used to produce a better 
body. Evaporated milk used with thin 
cream is quite effective, and far cheaper 
than butterfat in sufficient amount to 
produce a like result. Gelatin is fre¬ 
quently used, especially when the ice 
cream is to be kept for a considerable 
time. It decidedly aids its keeping qual¬ 
ity. Flour, cornstarch and rennet are 
also often used; these make a pudding¬ 
like mixture which give a firm body. 
Smoothness. —If the ice cream has a 
smooth and velvety texture it is far more 
pleasing than is a mass of coarse crys¬ 
tals. This characteristic is also largely 
influenced by the presence of butterfat, 
but the method of freezing is quite as im¬ 
portant, for if ice cream is frozen too 
rapidly the cream will separate and 
coarse water crystals will result. Or if 
frozen without motion it will be coarse 
grained and spiny. During the process 
of freezing it is essential that enough air 
be whipped into the mixture to give it a 
light, smooth and yet velvety consistency. 
Of course the more butterfat present in 
the ci’eam the more velvety will be the 
texture of the resulting ice cream, and 
the less will be the necessity for incor¬ 
porating air. If the cream is whipped 
before mixing with the flavoring it may 
be allowed to freeze without stirring and 
a very desirable result be obtained. This 
type of frozen mixture is generally known 
as mousse. For very cold weather, 
when the mercury remains well below the 
freezing point during the day, such a 
mixture can be made at night, set out-of- 
doors and be in excellent condition to 
serve for dessert at dinner the following 
day. If ice cream is to be kept for 
some time, a binder such as gelatine, ice 
cream powders, etc., may be used to hold 
the texture and prevent the growth of 
water crystals. 
Effect of Stirring. —As ice cream 
is freezing its volume increases. This is 
due to the incorporation of air into the 
mixture and to the expansion due to 
freezing, and is known as “ swell .” If a 
viscous cream is used more air can be 
whipped into it. The viscosity of cream 
increases on holding; just why this is 
does not seem to be clearly known. One 
theory of this thickening phenomena lik¬ 
ens it to the clotting of blood. The 
amount of swell is greatest just before 
the mixture freezes. If the ice cream is 
frozen slowly there is more time for 
whipping between the time when the 
cream becomes cool enough to whip and 
the time when it freezes. Thus, more air 
will be incorporated and a larger swell 
obtained. If the freezing is done too 
rapidly at first the cream will be liable 
to churn before it becomes sufficiently 
cool to whip and swell. Thus it is best 
to freeze slowly until the cream is cooled 
to the whipping point (about 34 deg. 
Fhr.) then to increase the speed of the 
dasher, reducing the speed again when it 
begins to thicken so as to prevent any 
possible loss of swell. 
Freezing. —To freeze ice cream, a mix¬ 
ture of ice and salt is used. The salt 
hastens the melting of the ice. When 
the ice melts it must absorb heat so it 
obtains this heat wherever possible, and 
this comes principally from the mixture 
in the freezer can. Thus the cream- 
sugar mixture loses its heat and be¬ 
comes ice cream. A fine salt works more 
quickly than does a coarse salt, but it 
tends to form crusts and prevent the ice 
from settling about the freezer can. Add¬ 
ed to that it is much more expensive than 
coarse salt, so the latter is generally 
used. The ice should be broken fine and, 
if the freezer is a large one, a little water 
poured over ice and salt at the start will 
hasten the freezing. Most directions 
given for the proportions of ice and salt 
call for three parts ice to one of salt. 
This is necessary for mixtures frozen 
without stirring, but for the average ice 
cream, frozen with stirring, much less 
salt can be used (say 10 parts ice to one 
part salt) provided the salt is not put 
into the freezer until it has been packed 
three-fourths full of ice. By so doing 
much less salt settles to the bottom of 
the freezer. When the freezer is emp¬ 
tied the undisolved salt can be drained, 
allowed to dry and used another time. 
Neapolitan Ice Cream is generally 
made with thin cream or rich milk and 
six to 12 egg yolks per quart of liquid. 
One cup of sugar is allowed for each 
quart of liquid and another cup of sugar 
for each dozen of egg yolks used. This 
mixture is cooked exactly like a boiled 
custard, allowed to cool, flavoring added 
and then frozen. 
Plain Ice Cream is made of thick 
cream and sugar flavored as desired. 
For each quart of cream use three-quar¬ 
ters of a cup of sugar. If cruslied fruit 
or fruit juice is used for flavor do not 
mix it with the cream before beginning 
to freeze. Put the cream into the freez¬ 
er can and turn until it just begins to 
freeze, then open the can, add the fruit 
juice, made into a syrup with the sugar, 
and continue freezing until as stiff as 
desired. 
Formula for plain ice cream made with 
fillers and binders: For one gallon of ice 
cream, cream two quarts; scalded milk 
one quart: filler three tablespoons flour 
or 1 V -2 tablespoons cornstarch or one 
junket tablet, or % tablespoon gelatin; 
cream one quart, scalded milk two quarts, 
one-quarter cup flour or two tablespoons 
cornstarch or two junket tablets or 1*4 
teaspoons gelatin. 
For one gallon of ice cream use three 
cups of sugar and any flavoring desired. 
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|| The Bright Side of Life || 
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HE best way to cure the 1 
“ blues ” in your own life f 
f is to make the life of some i 
I other fellow a little more rosy! I 
5 _ _ *5 
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Mother’s Afternoon Out. 
Mother was at the mending basket. 
Twins: “Mother! We’ve grown up!” 
Mother (looking up at her tall daugh¬ 
ters) : “So I perceive.” 
Twins: “We’ve been doing some real 
thinking and we’ve talked with Dad.” 
Bab: “You’ve been wearing all the old 
clothes and working hard and staying at 
home and it isn’t fair.” 
Betty: “Every hired girl in town has 
two afternoons out and you haven’t any 
time to yourself. This won’t do, this 
family is going to reform.” 
Mother (meekly) : “Yes, daughters. 
Honorably deign to mention how I am to 
reform.” (Both girls hug her violently.) 
Bab: “You don’t need to reform but we 
do.” 
Betty: “We’re going to give you two 
afternoons a week to do as you like.” 
Mother: “But you are busy with your 
school and your music and your clubs.” 
Bab (interrupting) : “What afternoons 
do you want?” 
Mother: “Wednesday is Ladies’ Aid. 
I’d like to have that and Sunday so I 
can go home.” 
Father (entering) : “All settled, 
girls?” 
Mother: “Are you in this, Max?” 
Father: “Yes, Mary, I am.” 
Mother: “With the whole family 
against me, I may as well yield. But 
what will you do about the meals?” 
Father: “Oh, we can cat crackers and 
milk.” 
Twins: “We’ll find something you 
know we can cook.” 
Bab (aside) “Who put ground coffee 
in the coffee cake?” 
Betty (aside) : “Who left the sugar 
out of the cranberry pie?” 
Mother: “I’ll trust you both to do bet¬ 
ter next time. Only at first I shan’t 
know what to do with ray free time. I’ve 
forgotten how to play.” 
Twins: “We’ll teach you. Begin now, 
go for a walk with Dad, you look all 
right.” (The mother rises slowly and 
goes with her husband. E. s. K. 
An old man, bent and weather beaten, 
came to my door the other day asking 
for apple suckers to plant on his place. 
“But,” I said, “it will be ten or fifteen 
years before those suckers bring fruit. 
You have no children and surely you do 
not expect to be here when they bear, 
so why do you plant them?” 
June 27, 
“I’m plantin’ ’em for posterity,” he re¬ 
plied. 
“But what did posterity ever do for 
you ?” I asked. 
“It's never had a chance, so I aim to 
do by it as I would wish it to do by me; 
if I was posterity an’ it was me. If 
somebody hadn’t done somethin’ for pos¬ 
terity, I’d have been nigh 20 year old 
’fore I’d tasted a Limbertwig.” c. R. 
North Carolina. 
Farmer .Tones, over the fence: “Does 
your cow give a lot of milk?” 
Farmer Town, lately from the city: 
“Well. I think she would give a lot, but 
my wife and I agreed we would be saving 
of it, and I only milk a pint or a quart, 
or just what we want to use, so there 
won't be any wasted. 
Tiie Correct Size. —Mrs. Newlywed 
fluttered into a high-class furnishing 
store and asked to be shown the latest 
styles in men’s Spring hats. 
“What size?” inquired the practical 
clerk. 
“Eight and one-half.” 
“That's a rather unusual size, are you 
quite certain of it, madam?” 
“Very certain. I heard my husband 
order shoes yesterday, and remember dis¬ 
tinctly. Yes. Eight and one-half.” 
E. D. M. 
You would have been amused could you 
have heard Mr. F. and I rise to the oc¬ 
casion recently upon being asked what 
was the best farm magazines. In chorus 
we exclaimed, “There is only one farm 
magazine.” We made the inquirer write 
down name and address, and had I had 
a pistol about me, I should have seen that 
the subscription got off at once. J. D. F. 
Carrying a pistol in New York State 
is against the law unless you have a li¬ 
cense. No doubt the court would quickly 
issue a license for this worthy purpose, 
but how long would such readers stick? 
“Buying by sample” beats a shotgun. 
Another Hair Restorer Story.— 
The little hair-restorer story on page 
700 of The R. N.-Y., reminded me of a 
story I heard not long ago, the truthful¬ 
ness of which the narrator w 7 as willing 
to vouch for, ran thus: Into the town 
of L-, came two men, William and 
James Selby, who rented a house and es¬ 
tablished themselves therein. It was 
soon discovered they were both perfectly 
bald, a fact that seemed to annoy them 
very much. They soon had the heart-felt 
sympathy of the whole town. One day 
an agent chanced to invade that town of¬ 
fering for sale a wonderful hair-restorer, 
lie called on Sam Perkins who was 
slightly bald and failing to convince him 
of the wonderful powers of the specific 
asked: “Do you know of any one who 
might be in need of my remedy?” “There 
are two men in the house next door, you 
might call on them.” replied Sam. Sam 
saw the Selby’s later. They thanked 
him for sending the agent to them say¬ 
ing they were giving the medicine a fair 
trial and had great faith in it. “See,” 
they said proudly showing their heads on 
which there was a fine growth of hair 
already in evidence. In a short time the 
demand for that particular compound 
was immense. Then one day it was dis¬ 
covered that .the agent was a brother of 
the Selby’s and that they had kept their 
heads closely shaved ever since they had 
moved to L-, and after buying the 
tonic had laid their razors away and sim¬ 
ply let the hair grow. The demand for 
hair-restorer became a thing of the past. 
M. B. DUTTON. 
Indian Bead Work. 
T HE accompanying picture may serve 
to inspire women readers of The R. 
N.-Y. to try their hand at bead 
work in forming saddle and bridle trim¬ 
mings. Doubtless many patrons of the 
movies who sit and watch long reels of 
horseriding films have noticed some of 
the gorgeous designs that have been 
wrought in beads. It is safe to say that 
most of the work was done by the In¬ 
dian women, but her pale-faced sister al¬ 
ready has learned to indicate the red 
maiden closely. Indian girls who became, 
students at the Indian schools carried 
this knowledge of bead work along with 
them. Many of them decorated their 
rooms at the schools with work of this 
kind, and some of them willingly gave 
lessons to white girls, with the result 
that such work is being done outside of 
the Indian reservations more than in 
earlier days. 
Indian women charge more for this 
kind of work than formerly. The time 
was that such work was sold at such 
trivial prices as to seem ridiculous. The 
work was gobbled up as travel to the 
Indian country increased, and then the 
red workers began raising their prices, 
and in some instances they have soared 
almost out of reach. It used to be that 
the Indians made a water bottle that 
was considered a piece of real potter’s 
art, and they were useful as well as or¬ 
namental. But water bottles doubled 
and trebled ip prices until they reached 
fancy figures. And then the workers are 
said to have skimped their work until 
a water bottle wouldn’t hold water or 
anything else that was poured into it. 
J. L. GRAFF. 
AN INDIAN WOMAN AND TIER BEAD WORK. 
