©124 
THE R.U RAL NEW-YORKER 
July IS, 
FARMERS’ CLUB 
[ Every query must be accompanied by the 
name and address of the writer to insure 
attention. Before asking a question, please see 
whether it is not answered in our advertising 
columns. Ask only a few questions at one time. 
Put questions on a separate piece of paper.] 
Raking Up Stones. 
ILL you suggest a tool for clearing 
stones from about six acres? 
Stones are the size of a large hand, 
some bigger. c. k. 
Roekaway, N. J. 
We do not know of any special tool for 
the purpose. Several of our readers have 
reported use of a steel rail from a rail¬ 
road track. With a team at each end 
this was dragged across the field and 
pushes the stones into windrows. We 
have known farmers to plow out deep 
ditches and then rake or throw the stones 
into them. One reader reports the suc¬ 
cessful use of oyster tongs such as fish¬ 
ermen use. Other use a heavy log with 
pins of wood or iron driven into it pro¬ 
jecting forward so as to gather up the 
stones and push them on. A plank with 
such pins is hardly heavy enough. A 
tool made like a hay rake with heavier 
teeth would answer for small stones but 
probably a heavy scraper with spikes at¬ 
tached would be best. 
The Peach Borer Once More. 
I HAVE a peach tree in my yard on 
which I noticed a mass having the 
consistency of honey at the base of 
the tree and upon removing this mass'' I 
found that the bark was entirely gone. 
I removed all that I could and found a 
white worm under the bark at one spot 
and a red worm at another. I then 
painted the injured parts with ordinary 
paint containing lead. Will you tell me 
whether either of these worms was the 
damage maker and which one? What 
could I do to prevent the tree from being 
further attacked by these borers? 
New York. M. L. 
This is the peach borer which we have 
often described. The egg is laid at the 
base of the trunk by a moth in late June 
or July. The worm or borer hatches and 
works down toward the root under the 
bark. You will find the mass of gum 
which you noticed filled with sawdust or 
little chips which the borer has gnawed 
out of the tree. The only way to make 
sure of this pest is to dig it out in the 
Fall and again in Spring. Scrape away 
the gum and find the passage which the 
borer has made with a sharp knife, cut 
down through the hole until you find the 
insect at the bottom. Do not cut across 
the trunk but slit the bark down. Paints 
and smears will not prevent all the dam¬ 
age. They may prevent the moth from 
laying her eggs low down but there will 
be some borers at work in spite of these 
protectors. The best one we know of is 
a thick lime-sulphur mixture sprayed or 
wiped on the trunk. Lead paint often 
kills the tree. Digging out is the only 
sure remedy we know of. 
Success With Rye and Vetch. 
EFERRING to the article on “Fraud 
in Vetch Seed,” page SSS, having 
used rye and vetch as a cover crop for 
three years on poor sandy soil, and hav¬ 
ing at last succeeded in getting a splen¬ 
did stand of the vetch, I am convinced 
that the lack of soil inoculation is re¬ 
sponsible for the failure of the vetch to 
catch in more instances than poor seed. 
I started with imported seed and sowed 
it on eight acres of the best land I had, 
but the soil was in such condition that 
I could not get a catch of clover or Tim¬ 
othy after three trials. We had lots of 
snow the following Winter and the vetch 
came through in good shape, but the 
plants were scattered and spindling. 
However, it was vetch or nothing, so I 
again sowed it and it survived a cold 
Winter with but little snow, much to my 
surprise, and the crop was double that 
of the previous year. I cut the rye and 
vetch for hay, but did not get into the 
field early enough so that a lot of the 
seed shattered out. My third planting 
was last September, and being rushed 
with work, I broadcast the seed and 
disked it in, leaving the ground rough on 
the theory that it would hold the snow 
better. This Spring I cut nearly eight 
tons of rye and vetch hay from six acres 
of the eight-acre field, leaving the other 
two acres for seed. The vetch is more 
than half of the crop. I have had similar 
experience with other fields, that ,is a 
gradual increase in the vetch as the soil 
becomes inoculated. Had I turned the 
ripened vetch under the first season, no 
doubt the advance would have been more 
rapid, but I needed the feed. Our soil is 
like that of eastern New Jersey and Del¬ 
aware—very sandy, and I would not be 
able to get along without vetch and rye, 
as a cover crop, to help out the corn fod¬ 
der, and, when I can afford it, to turn 
under to add nitrogen and humus to a 
soil very much in need of both. F. B. 
Ottawa Co., Mich. 
R. N.-Y.—No doubt inoculation pays 
but we believe that great quantities of 
Spring vetch are worked off for the more 
desirable Winter variety. 
Sowing Buckwheat. 
I HAVE a field of rye which I cut and 
fed to cows. I was thinking of plow¬ 
ing and sowing buckwheat to plow 
under this Fall. Would you advise me 
to do that or what would you advise? 
This field is very dry and sandy loam. 
Raised corn last year and used four 
cords manure per acre with some fertil¬ 
izer. Will buckwheat grow on such dry 
land? What kind of buckwheat is best? 
How much per acre? How would it be 
to sow buckwheat in corn last cultivation, 
where witch grass is bad on same kind of 
soil as mentioned before? N. F. K. 
Massachusetts. 
It depends partly on what you will do 
with the land after the crop is plowed un¬ 
der. We would not plow in the Fall and 
leave the ground bare, but would keep 
something growing through the Fall and 
Winter, and plow under in the Spring. 
For this purpose our suggestion would be 
to sow two bushels of Japanese buck¬ 
wheat, three pecks of rye, and two pounds 
Cow-horn turnip, all well worked into 
the soil. Then let the field alone until 
next Spring. The buckwheat and the 
turnips will be killed out during the Win- 
ter, but the rye will come on and give 
a good yield, to be plowed under next 
year. There may be some local reason 
for plowing this Fall, but if not we 
should not plow until next year when the 
new crop is to be put in. 
Ownership of Property. 
I OWN half of an undivided shore about 
half a mile long, and on that shore 
I have built a fish trap. I built this 
trap about six years ago, and got a li¬ 
cense from the city to build into tide¬ 
waters. The man who owns the other 
half lives in California and is going to 
sell to a man living here. Can this man 
claim half of my fish trap, or can he 
charge me rent for the shore? Fish trap 
cost about $300 to build. J. A. D. 
Maine. 
You do not state whether you had the 
consent of the present owner to build the 
trap, and that it should remain your 
property. Then considerable would de¬ 
pend on how you affixed the trap to the 
land. If it is fixed securely to the soil 
so that it cannot be taken away without 
injuring the property, it becomes part of 
the realty, and the new owner would be 
entitled to his share, unless you had some 
arrangement to the contrary, and he 
could charge you rent for the use of the 
shore. Your best plan is ot write to 
the present owner and see if you can 
get a statement from him that you are 
the owner of the trap and ask to put a 
statement to this effect in his deed to 
the new owner and then get some writing 
from the new owner that he recognizes 
your ownership of the trap. M. l>. 
MAIL BAG. 
Killing Dock. 
I HAVE a piece of clover land quite 
full of dock. It lies in the low land 
so it is very wet and cannot be 
plowed in the Spring. Can you tell me 
any way to get rid of it? I am afraid 
it will spread. If the clover is cut before 
the dock seeds ripen do you think there 
is danger? E. H. 
Massachusetts. 
AA T e do not know of any way of cleaning 
out dock except the laborious old fash¬ 
ioned plan of digging it. We have spent 
a good many days at this job. The tool 
for the purpose is a sharp spade, or what 
is known as a spud, which is really a 
narrow spade with a sharp edge at the 
end of a long stick. The spade or the 
spud is pushed down into the ground be¬ 
side the dock so as to cut off the root 
five or six inches underground. Then 
the top of the dock is pulled out and 
turned up to the sun to be pastured. A 
small handful of salt dropped into the 
hole after the dock is cut off will help. 
Hydrated Lime. 
BOUGHT hydrated lime at 75 cents 
per 100 pound bag from a large local 
dealer, but have been told that it is 
not good, that I should buy the quick¬ 
lime, bury a lump in dry ground and in 
few days it would be perfectly slaked. 
Is that correct? A. w. P. 
We prefer the hydrated lime to other 
kinds except that it costs too much. This 
form of lime is the lump or “quick” lime 
ground fine and then sprayed with just 
enough water to slake it perfectly. This 
makes it very fine and even and more 
comfortable to handle than other forms. 
A pound of lime in this form costs too 
much for ordinary use. Lump lime need 
not be buried in the ground in order to 
“slake” it. Left anywhere in moist air 
it will absorb moisture (which is slak¬ 
ing) and crumble to a powder when it is 
ready for use. 
Experience With New York Help. 
A FTER reading Mrs. F. W. Cole’s ar¬ 
ticle in your last number, we feel 
impelled to give our experience with 
the help received from the places named 
by Mrs. Cole. Last Spring we received 
a man from the Jewish association which 
proved to be a very intelligent German 
who wanted to get acquainted with farm 
work, but was entirely ignorant of any 
kind of farm work. He had been a 
traveling salesman, but will say this, he 
did the best he could according to his 
knowledge of the work. About middle of 
July lie went to New York to engage in 
a swimming contest which lie was pre¬ 
paring himself for about all the time he 
was here and that was the last of him. 
The next one came from a farm school 
and a bigger fraud no man ever had. He 
staid about a month and then wanted to 
go, which we gladly assented to. At 
noon when my son went to his room his 
gold watch was gone; that is the last we 
have seen of man or watch. We sent 
$5 to an agent this Spring to have him 
send us a man as he advertised that he 
had men for farm work. In a short time 
we received a letter from him saying that 
he had sent a man hut the man never 
showed up, nor the $5 either. AA r e do 
not consider we have got 33% on one 
dollar in work out of the money spent on 
N. Y. help. We have about made up our 
minds that we can’t do business with the 
misfits of the city. It is about like all 
the rest of the farm business. We give 
out best of the men we raise and take the 
poorest of the city. 
JOHN ANDERSON & SON. 
iMhts 
ij The best varieties, both L 
new and old, and the best 
methods of planting to raise a 
full crop of Strawberries next 
year, are fully particularized in 
DREER’S 
Mid-Summer Catalogue 
Also the best varieties of Celery, 
Cabbage Plants, etc. 
A most complete list of the Best Hardy 
Perennial Seeds for summer sowing. 
Also vegetable and farm seeds for sum¬ 
mer and fall sowing. Select list of sea¬ 
sonable decorative and flowering plants. 
Write for a copy and kindly 
mention this weekly — FREE. 
HENRY A. DREER PHILADELPHIA 
STRAWBERRY PLANTS 
For JULY, AUGUST, SEPTEMBER Planting. Runner and 
Pot-grown Plants Also Raspberry and Blackberry 
Plants. All Leading Varieties. Catalogue Free. 
HAltKY L. SQUIRES, REMSENIt I RC, N. V. 
"superb” Qfrawhprrioe a sucress. Circular Free. 
Everbearing dll QWMGII ICO willaro b. kille,S wedesboro.N.j. 
VEGETABLE PLANTS 
CAUtIFLOWER. CELERY, CABBAGE PLANTS. Leading 
Varieties. Large or Small Lots. Mail or Express. 
Catalogue Free. HARRY L. SQUIRES, Rentsenburg, N. Y. 
WANT TO KNOAV. 
Growing Ever-bearing Raspberries. 
C AN any reader report as to experi¬ 
ences with Ever-Bearing raspber¬ 
ries? There are reasons why, for¬ 
me, they will be very useful if they pro¬ 
duce enough fruit at last bearing to' make 
it worth while. They have not, so far. 
but that may be my fault. For the or¬ 
dinary red raspberries it is recommended 
to cut back the tops of the plants but it 
that is done on the ever bearing, will it 
not kill the new fruit buds? They seem 
on the tips. The bushes are slender and 
the weight of the berries brings them to 
the ground and there they lie in the 
mud. I should like directions for getting 
results. I have in mind to run wires 
down each side of the row, supporting the 
wires by strong posts and thus hold the 
plants off the ground, but I am not con¬ 
vinced that the ever-bearing are worth 
the trouble as yet. m. p. l. 
Maryland. 
K eeping damp out of stone 
WALL.—I saw an inquiry about 
field stones for building. I am just 
building one bungalow now, 30x36 feet, 
with all field stones and concrete. I 
would like to find out what to do to keep 
out the damp. Somebody has told me 
to put a good coat of asphalt on the walls. 
I don’t know whether it is right or not. 
New Jersey. c. P. 
PI ANTQ-CRERY and CAULIFLOWER. 400 for SI.OO. 
rLHniO Postpaid, S2.00 per 1,000. CABBBGE, SI .00 
per 1,000. List free. W. S. FORD & SON, Hartly, Delaware 
PahhaffO PI a nlc —lOO.OOO Late Cabbage Plants. All 
uaUUugG nallio the leading varieties at 90e. per 
1,000. Special Priceson large orders. DAVID RODWAY, Harlly, Del. 
CABBAGE PLANTS-^ 1 ]- 
ready to plant out. DANISH BALL HEAD, FLAT DUTCH. ALL 
SEASON, ALL HEAD SAVOY, and others—$1 per 1,000; 
$8.50 for 10,000. CELERY PLANTS— all leading kinds, 
$1 per 1,000. CAULIFLOWER PLANTS— $2.50 per 1,000. 
J. C. SCHMIDT - - Bristol, Pa. 
FRUIT TREES 
All Leading Varieties at Less Than Half Agents' 
Prices. Catalogue Free. Harry L Squires, Rerasenburg, N. Y. 
WHEAT nn d Timothy Peed sold direct. Why not 
nnLHi gow our guaranteed Seeds? Increase 
your profits. Glick’s Seed Farms, Snioketown. Pa. 
Alfalfa Soil 
FOK INOCULATION. SEND FOP CIRCULAR 
F. T. GILL, lladdou Farms, Haddonfield, N. J 
ALFALFA 
Now is the time to get ready to sow alfalfa. July and 
August good months. Get our book, Alfalfa, The Wonder 
Crop, Free. Full information on how to successfully 
grow alfalfa. How to prepare the ground, protect and 
harvest. Earn 79b net on $1,000 an acre. Also tells about 
“NITRAGIN,” the famous inoculator. Write today. 
Galloway Bros.-Bowman Co., 275 Galloway Station, Waterloo lows 
Plant LOVETT’S Pot-Grown Strawberries 
years. 
this Summer and have an abundance of big, red, luscious berries next June 
I am a pioneer in growing Pot-Grown Strawberries. I have been growing them for 36 
I offer properly grown plants of all the choice new and good old varieties—but by 
far the finest of all strawberries are the Van Fleet Hybrids, the 
Early Jersey Giant, Edmund Wilson & Late Jersey Giant 
now being introduced by me. Tliey yield enormously, liave the 
delicious flavor of the wild strawberry, and are as largo as small 
apples. These three varieties give a long season of fruit, from the 
earliest until the very latest. Write for my booklet, mailed free. 
It tells all about the Van Fleet Hybrids, illustrates and describes 
a score or more of other line varieties (including the best of the 
Everbearing Strawberries;, and gives full cultural instructions. 
J. T. LOVETT Box 162 LITTLE SILVER, N. J. 
DOWN 
YOUR FIELDS 
NOW—with 
Hubbard’s 
Let us tell you about our special fertilizers for particular soils and special crops. By 
proper treatment you can reap a bigger crop and still leave t lie land richer than before. 
Write today for our booklets, “Holt Fertility.” “T he tirim* Crop.” and “The Apple” and for 
lIubbiird'H 1911 Alniiinne, which contains much valuable information about soil, fertilizers, and 
other farm subjects. Sent free to any address. 
THE ROGERS & HUBBARD CO., Address Dept. A, Middletown, Conn. 
OFFICE AND WORKS, PORTLAND, CONN. 
~Fl Fertilizers 
