1914 . 
©46 
THE RURAb NEW-YORKER 
.. . .::===;pf 
Suggestions For Hair Dressing 
Becoming and Unbecoming Effects 
nmmnnimiiimiiiuimmmmii By Edna. S* Knapp uiinimnnimnimiiiimiiimii 
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A LITTLE woman of six said the 
other day: “When my hair gets 
longer, mamma is going to do it a differ¬ 
ent way. I don’t like it the same every 
day.” Some people do, there is Marie 
who has worn her beautiful wavy hair 
practically the same way for years, with 
The Worst Possible Effect. 
the coil high or low as fashion dictates. 
Floris likes variety, she tries all the new 
styles and can wear any of them. On 
my last visit to them, Floris, who is the 
housekeeper, spent three-quarters of an 
hour doing her hair in an elaborate and 
very becoming manner, while Marie, who 
worked in the post office, put breakfast 
on the table. Yet Floris was hurrying, 
for this new mode took her an hour and 
a half when she first learned it. 
Do you want to know how to make the 
best arrangement of your tresses? This 
is what Nan has just done. First she 
took her hand mirror and, sitting down 
before her dresser, took account of stock. 
If you try it at night, be sure you have a 
good light at each side. Everything that 
goes to make up appearance has to be 
studied, one doesn’t mind admitting de¬ 
fects just to herself, being known, they 
can be remedied. This was the result of 
her study: height, medium; look taller on 
account of a long neck ; complexion, good 
but pale; face, oval, but looks large un¬ 
less framed softly ’ by her hair; profile 
poor, head flat, no one feature especially 
prominent; hair a little thin at the tem¬ 
ples; forehead so high that it would be 
well to cover it a little. She especially 
likes a low coiffure, it looks well in front 
and in back, but a profile view of any 
she has tried, proves dreadfully unbecom¬ 
ing. 
All the new styles call for a low coif¬ 
fure with great quantities of curly hair 
arranged well over the face. They are 
charming but few have natural hair 
An Improvement in Front. 
enough to get the right effect. Most of 
us have straight hair, while apparently 
there are no styles for straight-haired 
people. I wonder why. 
Nan’s next step was to study the 
catalog de luxe of a Fifth Avenue hair¬ 
dresser. It is a beautiful book, about 
everything dealing with hair, countless 
beautiful arrangements of wavy hair are 
pictured. It tells the laws of becoming 
arrangement for seemingly all types of 
women. Nan spent a good deal of time 
with the catalog, then finally wrote for 
advice, which is given freely, giving a 
full description of herself. The answer 
came promptly, courteously advising her 
to study the catalog. Thus thrown on 
her own judgment, she did study the cat¬ 
alog some more, and at last made up her 
mind. She has been wearing a modified 
pompadour, the short hairs around her 
face curled back from her face, and a 
coil at the right height to give a good 
profile line to her head. The new ar¬ 
rangement called for brushing down and 
cutting in “bang” effect the troublesome 
short hairs about her face, these were to 
be curled down to cover her high fore¬ 
head. A parted pompadour of waved 
hair with a soft “basket weave coil” 
suited her. To do this, it was necessary 
to get a three-stem switch. The hair¬ 
dresser’s prices were low for the quality 
of his wares, but Nan’s purse was low, 
too. The “basket weave coil” proved 
rather troublesome to learn and arrange 
so on ordinary occasions, a “figure eight” 
twist looked, well. This was kept rather 
flat and the top of the coil went high 
enough to give a good outline to her 
head. 
Now, having decided to alter her style 
of hair-dressing, it was necessary to wash 
her hair to get it out of the way it had 
been going. Hair has habits of its own, 
Arranged By a Hair Dresser. 
you know. Nan uses tar soap with a 
little borax in the rinsing water to make 
her hair fluffy. She made the mistake 
once of putting in too much borax, but 
will not do it again. Some of the new 
head washes are much easier and quicker 
to use. Nan gives her comb, brush, side 
combs and hairpins a bath when she 
washes her hair. Nan is able to keep her 
hair in order ordinarily by washing it 
once in two weeks, brushing it a few min¬ 
utes at night and giving her scalp ten 
minutes of massage with her finger tips, 
using a circular motion. In the winter, 
once a month for washing the hair does 
very well, with a dry shampoo of talcum 
powder once in a while. 
Straight hair has a beauty of its own, 
in my humble opinion, if it is well cared 
for. It can be made nearly wavy by 
careful brushing and arrangement in 
loose, soft effects. It is almost wonder¬ 
ful what a difference the style of hair¬ 
dressing makes. I asked Vivian to pose 
for some photographs to show this. 
Vivian has about the prettiest straight 
hair I know, soft and lustrous and almost 
wavy. The photographer was not rushed 
at the time so took a good deal of pains 
to get the effect wanted. The first view 
shows the worst possible effect gained by 
straining the flair back into a tight coil. 
Not even house-cleaning would excuse 
any such arrangement. 
The second picture is the way she or¬ 
dinarily wears her hair, and suits her ex¬ 
actly. This is the same hair and the 
same amount of hair as in the first view. 
The difference all lies in the way it is 
handled. Vivian’s hair is long but it is 
not unusually thick. She is a past mis¬ 
tress of the art of making it look abun¬ 
dant. The third picture shows the ar¬ 
rangement a Boston hair-dresser pre¬ 
ferred for her. The coiffure was the re¬ 
sult of that lady’s effort. It is more 
stylish according to present modes, but I 
do not like it as well as the second view. 
Although Vivian has straight hair, like 
the rest of the feminine world, at times 
she wears it curled. One is likely to look 
more intellectual with straight hair, but 
curly hair softens and changes the whole 
face. 
Bangs are beginning to come in again, 
our English cousins call them “fringes.” 
I suppose the reason is that the close 
hats and automobile bonnets of the day 
are so trying to many faces. You can 
buy a front-piece and wear it with a bou¬ 
doir cap, if you don’t get up in time to 
arrange your hair before breakfast and 
want to look as if you did. Seriously, 
boudoir caps have their uses. I noticed 
a beautiful elderly lady in the hospital 
one day this Spring; she was wearing a 
negligee of tan-colored flannel covered 
with rosebuds in Dresden effect. She 
had on a boudoir cap of lawn to match, 
trimmed with pink ribbon and lace. This 
seemed such a sensible fashion, you know 
how untidy your hair will get when you 
have to stay in bed. 
You can even buy a wig to match your 
costume if you want the latest absurdity. 
Many of the styles of past years are in 
vogue, only arranged in lower effects. 
The mail-order houses carry in stock bas¬ 
ket puffs, Psyche knots, two or three 
small puffs, and the coronet braid. Not 
nearly so many rolls are worn and nearly 
all the coiffures are moderate in 'size, i 
Anyway, the extreme styles look like | 
“her Thursday afternoon out.” The style 
Janice Meredith wore is again popular 
for evenings. Very few evening arrange¬ 
ments of hair are worn without a head¬ 
dress of some sort. Most show a band or 
bandeau of ribbon-covered lattice work 
worn either plain or with a chou of chif¬ 
fon at one side. Some have a small 
ostrich feather at one side, others show 
feathers at each side. All match the 
dress as a rule. Some pretty headbands 
are of filagree. The general style of these 
accessories reminds one of an Indian 
maiden with headband and single feather. 
You can get hairpins now to match your 
hair. They are not expensive. The best 
are silk-covered. A well-dressed woman 
is supposed not to let her hairpins show. 
EDNA S. KNAPP. 
The Wellesley Apron. —Has the Wel¬ 
lesley apron been described in your col- 
ums? It is pretty and practical and very 
easy to make. It consists of a square 
yard of unbleached drilling with one cor¬ 
ner gracefully rounded. This is for the 
bottom. The opposite point is the bib, 
and may be pinned in place or cut off and 
a nej^k strap used. The apron is bound 
all round with a contrasting color and 
has strings of the trimming. I made 
some once with stenciling as decoration. 
As it hangs on the bias it drapes grace¬ 
fully and is the easiest to iron of any 
cover-all pattern I know. The picture is 
all the pattern one would need. K. 
Tiie Sire : “What would you think if 
I told you that at your age I never dis¬ 
obeyed my parents or teacher?” The 
Son: “You’d lick me if I told you what 
I thought.”—Nashville Tennesseean. 
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