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• • 
The Slender Woman’s Hat 
Good Taste in Head Dress 
• • 
• • 
By Esther A. Cosse i 
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F itting tiie hat.—L ittle do large 
women imagine tlie difficulty slender 
women have in selecting their clothes, 
and they have more trouble with their 
hats than with any other part of their 
apparel. All women know that slender 
people have no trouble in securing arti¬ 
cles to make them appear larger, or to 
make their clothes lit them better, yet, 
it is impossible to procure anything to 
make the head look larger, though one 
can procure extra hair, which will permit 
a woman to arrange her own hair full 
about her face, and to use the extra hair 
for decoration. Some wear it braided 
and pinned about the head in a coronet, 
while others prefer different styles. Any 
of these are suitable for a woman or a 
girl. The more hair she has the better 
a hat will fit. This is especially true of 
the woman approaching middle age, 
whose hair has started to fall out, and it 
is necessary to wear it very plain. Hut 
if such is the case, don’t do it. Send 
your combings to a hair worker and have 
it made into either a switch or transform¬ 
ation. This will improve your appear¬ 
ance and ci. se your hats to be more be 
coming. Usually a small woman has a 
small head, and the shapes purchased 
have often been fitted to the head of a 
larger woman, in order to make it fit 
comfortably the average sized head. For 
the use of such people hands have been 
invented, but I do not agree with one who 
might say to use them in all cases where 
the headsize is too large. Of course, 
there are cases where it is necessary, but 
that is rare, and, in most instances there 
are better and easier remedies. 
Bands And Lining. —To replace these 
bands several things can be done. One 
way which is especially good for the per¬ 
son with thin hair is to take cotton and 
cover it loosely with a piece of either 
black or white thin material, depending 
upon the color of the hat, black if dark; 
white, if light; sewing it to the crown 
one inch up from the headsize. The lin¬ 
ing is then sewed in and the hat will rest 
on the cotton hand. This should extend 
part way round for some, while for 
others, it is necessary to make it large 
enough to go all around the headsize. 
If the headsize is too large on either side, 
or both, and causes the hat to move from 
one side to the other, especially making it 
tilt the wrong way on the side carrying 
the trimming, cotton should be used in a 
different form. Make one piece two inch¬ 
es long and cover with material to cor¬ 
respond with outside of hat. Tack this 
outside of lining and to extend low enough 
to relieve the uncomfortable strain. 
Sometimes it is necessary to put one in 
on each side. Have you ever had a hat 
that when pinned with a hatpin seemed 
to draw just one or two hairs and if kept 
on any length of time, would cause head¬ 
ache? Many times I have had that trou¬ 
ble. To change that, rip the drawstring 
of the lining, and put in a running stitch, 
but leave it open and let the head slip to 
the top of the crown. Thus you will need 
but one good-sized pin, about two inches 
long to hold it at the back of the head 
where the hair is thick. This is a simple 
thing to do, but many would find it 
would not only make the hat look better, 
but it would feel very much more com¬ 
fortable. 
Side Bands. —If one wishes to raise 
the left side it must be done by what 
we call a side band. This is made from 
a piece of stiffening, crinoline or buck¬ 
ram. Cut a band eight inches long and 
two inches wide. Shape it off on the 
ends, making the lower part round and 
the part sewed to the hat straight. Wire 
this all the way around. Pin the band 
to a double piece of material and cut 
out, leaving it half an inch larger all the 
way around; stitch across the bottom; 
lit to band; and slip stitch it across. 
Fasten firmly to the left side and side 
back of hut and trim with ribbon, flow¬ 
ers, or material corresponding with trim¬ 
ming. These bands are used for an un¬ 
der-brim trimming of feathers, such as is 
shown in illustration. Feathers are 
sewn firmly to brim and ends in some 
cases are stuck through brim and those 
left exposed are covered with a trim¬ 
ming of some description, but very little 
of it, as it will make the hat too heavy 
on the left side. 
Choosing The Hat. —In selecting a 
hat the first thing to be considered is the 
type of features. Is the face round or 
long? If round, use all round hats and 
odd shapes with points at different angles 
might he selected. If the face is long 
Side Trimming of Feathers. 
choose long and broad shapes, but avoid 
angular lines. Trimming for all slender 
people must not be too tall, especially if 
the person is tall, and, in that case, it 
must be very broad. The slender woman 
has a huge advantage over the large 
woman in selecting shapes, as practically 
any odd shape, provided it be on right 
lines is usually becoming, while the stout 
woman must wear hats extremely plain, 
always looking her best in a tailored 
shape and style of trimming. Further¬ 
more, the slender woman can and does 
wear fancy lmts. By that, I mean, those 
elaborately trimmed with feathers, or 
shapes covered with fancy materials, such 
as lace, maline, chiffon, etc., while the 
more unfortunate stout sister must ad¬ 
here to the rules and wear those made 
very plain, of straw braid, lace or ma¬ 
line, never daring to allow herself the 
pleasure of wearing a little lace ruffle, or 
a full trimming of any kind; but must 
use feather and flower Stick-ups, or a 
trimming of ribbon with a few flowers. 
A Model Hat.—A hat for a slender 
woman as shown in illustration No. 2, 
which I designed especially for a slender 
woman with a round face, is made of 
blue straw braid requiring one-lmlf roll 
of black frame wire and pair of nippers 
or pinchers to make the following frame: 
Headsize 25 inches; crons crown nine 
Toque of Straw Braid. 
inches; side crown ‘iy 2 inches; outside 20 
inches; second bend 37 Va inches; front 
of coronet %-4-5 1 /> inches; left side front, 
side, side back, right side back, side, 
side front and back, the same. The cor¬ 
onet is made by bending wires straight 
up, or in other words in a cuff. In 
measuring off the brim dimensions, the 
NKW-YOKKEK 
first measurement is for the brim, the 
second for straight coronet and the third 
for the curve which is bent toward the 
outside. It doesn’t mean that where first 
figures read %-4-5 inches, that each bend 
must be measured separately, hut the 
tape must not he taken from the wire 
after starting to measure each wire. The 
distance between three-quarter and four 
is but 3% and 5 / 2 inches but 2% 
inches. The frame is covered with crin¬ 
oline, fitted smoothly, cutting crinoline 
to take out plaits wherever they occur; 
and, as one can see from illustration, 
the braid runs up and down the brim, 
but only over the curve. The wreath can 
be made at home by wiring small pink 
roses, blue forget-me-nots and small rose 
foliage, alternately. The crown is not 
fitted, but top is brought right to brim 
and sewed below second bend. It is cov¬ 
ered with a piece of blue silk then with 
chiffon of same color, as is the loop made. 
The wire ear is made, and after sewing up 
loop on one edge, wire is slipped in and 
sewed on other edge then attached to the 
hat. The wreaths, if left long enough 
to extend upon the loop, adds much to the 
artistic appearance of shape. If the col¬ 
or is a little trying to the complexion, 
loop a row of black velvet ribbon, No. 22, 
around the brim. It is a beautiful hat, 
and, one making one like it would he very 
much pleased with it. It is one especially 
designed for a slender woman of round 
face, and when making it one would find 
the shape perfectly round, but it should 
be bent so it is a trifle longer than wide: 
To make it one would require: 
One half roll frame wire .$ .10 
One spool tie wire.10 
One yard crinoline.10 
5 yards braid at Sc.40 
Vj yard of silk, 59c.30 
yard of chiffon, 59c.30 
2 bunches pink roses, 19c.38 
2 bunches forgetmenots, 15c.30 
2 bunches foliage, 19c.38 
$2.51 
A Melon-Seed Chain. 
WISH to pass on to the children of 
The R. N.-Y. family a discovery my 
10-year-old daughter made. For a very 
MKLON-HEED CHAIN. 
pretty chain, take muslunelon seeds, wash 
and spread on paper until partly dry, 
I hen, with a needle and double thread 
string them irregularly until long enough 
to tie and slip over the head. Then dye 
any shade desired. We had pink dye in 
the house and used it, making it look not 
unlike coral. Children any age enjoy 
doing this, as we found by interesting the 
children in our neighborhood. A sam¬ 
ple of the chain is shown above. 
Conn. MRS. CHARLES TURNER. 
“The Woman We Like.” 
The woman we like feels that a story 
told to hurt another’s feelings or air fail¬ 
ings is very had form so she avoids it 
herself and discourages it in others. 
She is very mindful of the little cour¬ 
tesies to the old, enjoys a laugh with the 
young and is a good listener as well as 
interesting conversationalist. 
She does not judge people by their 
clothes but by their actions, yet is not a 
critic, seeing noble traits of character as 
readily in the washwoman as in her most 
fastidious caller. 
She is very sympathetic to children, en¬ 
joying their joys and helping them 
through their troubles. 
She by these acts brings out the good 
side of our nature and makes the worst 
of us, quite companionable so we are lifted 
up from a lower to a higher plane, and 
that is why we love her. 
Virginia. mus. j. n. ludington. 
September 2(1, 
The Rural Patterns. 
When ordering patterns give number 
of pattern and size desired. Price of each 
pattern. 10 cents. 
7008, Housejacket with fitted back; 
sizes 34 to 44 bust measure. 7007 Kim¬ 
ono with set-in sleeves for misses and 
small women; sizes 14, 10 and IS years. 
7163, Long or short kimono, small 34 or 
30, medium 38 or 40, large 42 or 44. 
7595, Child’s pointed yoke dress, sizes 1, 
2 and 4 years. 777S, Child’s tucked and 
plain guimpe, sizes 2. 4 and (i years. 
8050, Semi-princesse gown, 34 to 42 
bust measure. 8309, Gown with long cir 
